Description and General Ascent Plan
Day 1
From the base camp located on the lake shore, next to the lateral moraine of the Abdukagor glacier (altitude 4000 m), the route passes along the left-bank moraine of the glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends and has a convenient exit onto the ice. We crossed the merged Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers and again reached the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, where it sharply turns southeast (1 hour).
A trail along the moraine leads to a flat area with water (1 hour). Slightly above the area, we descended from the moraine onto the glacier and began to move towards the middle part of the icefall formed by the left (orographically) branch of the Abdukagor glacier (30 minutes). The path goes:
- initially to the right,
- and higher - to the left (in the direction of travel) of its middle part (1 hour).
The icefall is traversed in crampons.
Above the icefall, there are three not very steep rises of the glacier, alternating with more gentle sections, which lead to the pass plateau. The glacier is heavily crevassed and covered with snow.
Elevation gain from the icefall to the Abdukagor pass:
- 500–600 m
Time taken: 2.5–3 hours.
On the right (in the direction of travel) side of the pass plateau, a cave was dug, and an intermediate camp was organized. There is water in a snow-ice depression.
Altitude:
- 5,100 m.
Day 2
From the cave, we, along with other participants of the gathering, set out