DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE "GLAVNAYA IGLA" SUMMIT VIA THE SOUTHEAST SLOPE. 1969 Group composition: GLADILIN L.S. (leader), RUDNEV V.S., ABLESIMOV V.E., GITERMAN B.P. The Iglá summit is located in the Pamir-Alay mountains, at the junction of the:

• Alay range,
• Turkestan range,
• Zeravshan range (see diagram 1). The Iglá summit (see diagram 2, photo 1) is a massif consisting of three peaks, conditionally named:

The Kok-Bel spur, stretching in the meridional direction, separates the Kshemish and Purovskogo glaciers. Ascents to the peaks located in the spur are made:

• from the east - from the Kshemish glacier,
• from the west - from the Purrovskogo glacier,
• as well as from the passes connecting these glaciers. The transition from the base camp under the Kshemish glaciers to the assault camp in the upper reaches of the Purovsko glacier takes about 7 hours. At the same time, it is necessary to cross the snowy pass of Puroveko roughly 2B cat. The path through the Kiroksan pass takes significantly more time.

Critical Caucasus

II. Peak (4600 m) from the Purovskogo pass 3B cat.:

• April 22, 1969 — I. G. Lobkin, A. K. Kuzminikh April 28, 1969 — V. E. Eskarov, V. O. Panov From the assault camp on the Purovskogo glacier, the ascent is to the left of the Purovskogo pass to a snowy saddle, separated from the pass by a large mandarin. From the saddle, the path goes along:

3. Kshemish-Bashi (5230 m) — Ivanov Pass 45 km

July 22-25, 1969. L.A. Bolyaev, D.I. Morodorov, Z.O. Panomov, S.A. Ilyalg, L.N. Vyacheslavov, A.S. Mordekov The route starts from Ivanov Pass, connecting Kshemish glacier with Ak-Terek river valley. The ascent to the pass from the assault camp takes 1-1.5 hours and corresponds to approximately 25 km; snow up to 35°, ice in places. From Ivanov Pass, move along the boundary of rocks and snow, into the left part of the glacier, descending from the Eastern ridge of Kshemish-Bashi. After 1.5-2 hours of ascent, one should move to the right along a 6-meter steep ice slope crossing the entire width of the icefall. In its right part, there is an exit to the cirque of the upper terrace. Movement:

• with insurance through ice axe,
• crampons. Having overcome a large crevasse, located parallel to the slope, we move to the right under the rusty rocks of a large guandarma, located in the north-eastern counterfort. From the pass - 4-5 hours. In the upper part of the guandarma, there is a control point. Important:
• Overcoming the icefall only in the first half of the day!

The Table (4500 m) with an inclination of 25° on the western slope.

54

August 12, 1969 3.0. Panov's group

© A. Lorofeev

Ascent from the Purovsky glacier along the scree and talus located on the western slope of the peak to the entrance to the snow-ice couloir.

• The couloir is crossed in its lower part (highly hazardous, grade 3–4 boundary).
• Then ascend up the slopes (grade I rope).
• Then move up and to the right along the slabs and loose scree to the upper part of the wide inclined snow-ice plateau (pitons used for belay). Then traverse left — up along the ledges and the upper part of the couloir, which is to be crossed lower down. Ascend to the right along an internal corner and a crack onto a ledge, then along loose rocks and a crevice — exit under a rock beam onto a snowy plateau. After bypassing the rock beam on the left along an inclined ledge — exit onto the pre-summit ridge. Then along steep scree — exit onto the summit. Descent follows the ascent route. Ascending along the ridge via the couloir is hazardous due to rockfall.

5. A

August 7–10, 1969. L.A. Belnev, L.N. Pimakova, D.M. Molorodov, A.S. Mardovov The route begins with the "4600" pass, which connects the Пуровского (Purovsky) and Толстого (Tolstoy) glaciers. The path across the "4600" pass from the assault camp in the upper reaches of the Пуровского glacier goes:

• along the main part of the glacier,
• then along its left tributary. The first stage of the icefall. The path from the assault camp on the Кисоши (Kisoshi) glacier to the overnight stay on the left tributary of the Пуровского glacier takes 9 hours. Ascent to the "4600" pass

The edge formation rests against a 40° snow-ice slope. After 8–10 m there is a large rock, where it is convenient to organize an insurance and hang a rope. Up to this point, starting from the triangular wall, it goes without a backpack. After a large rock, the ascent takes 10–15 minutes and follows a snow-ice slope with rocky inclusions to a gentle part of the edge. From here, along the ascending edge, which breaks off steeply to the north for about 200 m, it leads to a snowy shoulder under the summit. From it, along the snow-ice slope from the western side, there is an ascent to the summit of the peak. From under the triangular wall - 5 hours. The descent from the summit to the pass follows the ascent route, with the organization of 5 forty-meter "rappels" and takes 7 hours.

Report.

On the as­cent to the sum­mit A. Blok (East­ern) 5150 m via the coun­ter­fort of the East­ern wall by the team 12 of the Sports Club Ary­sy SABO. Team coach E. T. Ilyin­sky. Team cap­tain 2005 year 10. A-pix. 6–8/2–86. Lcio­za­ch 10.12. Su de­ca 0.24. Kha­ne­ts­tob 3.44. 845, 1096, 4 E / 401 41 / 95 86 / 12 60 / 82 а х а, 13 / 11 · 1 / 2, 1 / 2 su А, 20 рас, 3 пу

It is difficult, practically impossible, to capture the route profile. The ridge along which the route runs is zigzag-shaped and is blocked from the south by the towers of gendarmes. Photos taken from below, from the moraine, result in overlapping images. Photographing from Peak Domashny also results in overlapping ridge bends, plus details are not visible due to the large distance. A frontal photo captures only 1–2 nearest ascents; the rest of the ridge is blocked by gendarmes.

Approach Description

From the base camp, bypassing the southern spurs of the peak Dostoevsky to the right, ascend via scree under the southern slopes of peak Dostoevsky (5 hours from the camp). Approach the western ridge via moraine to the first long snow couloir on the left. R0–R1. Ascend the 35° 1000 m snow couloir to a saddle on the western ridge before the 1st gendarme (3 hours from the moraine). The couloir is avalanche-prone; it is recommended to pass it in the morning. Behind the saddle on the ridge is a good place to spend the night in a hollow. R1–R2. Bypass the 1st gendarme to the right. Descend 50 m to a snowy inclined ledge. Rocks with ice formations. Traverse right and upwards to a steep snow couloir. R2–R3. Ascend the couloir to a narrow saddle before the 2nd gendarme. In the narrow part of the couloir is a 15 m ice chute. R3–R4. Ascend the 2nd gendarme directly, snowy rocks. R4–R5. Descend via snowy rocks with top rope on a snowy cornice. R5–R6. Snowy cornice turning into a snowy wall, loose snow on a smooth rock slab.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge.
3. Peak — p. 4690 (50 years of DSO “Spartak”), via N slope.
4. Difficulty category — 4B (estimated).
5. Route characteristics:
   • snow-ice route
   • height difference 750 m
   • length 110 m
   • ice section length 950 m

Move on to the snowy saddle between the North and main peaks of Bogatyry. The route goes along the rocks on the saddle itself. There are cornices on the eastern side (be careful!). To overcome the fourth gendarme, one should drive ice screws into the snowy slope and stretch the handrail. The fifth gendarme is overcome head-on with cutting steps on the icy slope with a steepness up to 70° when approaching its constituent rocks. The rocks are of medium difficulty and are overcome with belay. Descent from the gendarme to a small dent, then to the pre-summit rocks. The rocks of medium difficulty lead to the main peak of Bogatyry. The ascent to the summit itself goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 60° (with running belay). The descent from the main peak goes along the snowy slope with several drops. A gendarme blocking the path is overcome head-on; the rocks are of medium difficulty. Then, the path leads to the saddle between the Central and South peaks of Bogatyry. The ascent to the South peak of Bogatyry goes along the snowy slope with a steepness of up to 45°, and the descent from it goes along the snowy slope no steeper than 40°. The descent leads to the saddle between the South peak of Bogatyry and the peak of Kolesnik, the last object of the traverse route. The peak of Kolesnik is an ice dome, above which three groups of rocks rise. The middle group is the summit. The route to the summit presents no particular difficulties. From the saddle, the ascent to the summit begins with a 100-meter snowy slope (sometimes with aufeis). Further on:

• there are easy and medium rocks of the southwestern ridge
• further to the east, there is a second rocky ridge, which is the highest point of the summit.