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Ascent to the summit Titova 3 (3678 m) along the western ridge, complexity category 1B, height difference 700 m, length 2300 m.

V. Titova 3 ridge. Drakin A.V. Altai. Katunsky ridge. I. 1.6 dated November 26, 1993, p. 9

Passport

  1. Altai. Katunsky ridge. Akkem lake area.
  2. V. Titova 3 ridge. Height 3678.
  3. Proposed 1B category of difficulty (first ascent)
  4. Height difference 700 m, length 2300.
  5. Moving time (from the base camp on Akkem lake and back) 15 hours.
  6. Leader: Drakin Andrey Valentinovich CMS
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Description of the 2A category complexity route to Titov Peak in the Katun Range, Altai, with details on the approach and ascent.

  1. Rock climbing.
  2. Altai, Katunsky ridge.
  3. Classified as 2A for route category modification.
  4. Height difference 450 m, length 1900 m.
  5. Moving time 8.5 hours from the camp under Boris peak.
  6. Mokhova V.M. 1st sports category. Belyaev P.A. 3rd sports category. Vinnikov K.E. 1st sports category. Egorov L.M. 3rd sports category.
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Description of the "Tomsk Student" route, category 6B difficulty level, to the summit of Sofiya in Arkhyz, including details of the ascent and key obstacles.

6. Tomsk student camp

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Ascent to Tanky Peak (3500 m) via the northwestern counterfort with elements of rock climbing and traverse of the summit.

Tancuk crycenos (3500) — 25 km. 23 sp. + soo, 800, 450, 5 sm, 3 ch. K. Actanemko, e. hypodes, B. Hamoenke, r. pycau 43–86:

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Description of the 2A category difficulty route to Razdel'naya peak (3556 m) in the Katun Range, Altai, an ice ascent with an altitude difference of 750 m.

Ascent Certificate

  1. Ascent class: Ice climb.
  2. Ascent area: Altai. Katunsky ridge.
  3. Peak Razdel'naya from the north, height 3556 m, snow-ice route.
  4. Expected difficulty category: 2A.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 750 m, average slope 25–30°.
  6. Pitons: 3 ice screws for belaying.
  7. Number of climbing hours: II–12.
  8. Ascent is made from camp to camp without overnight stay.
  9. Climbers:
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Uroosvati via the Eastern slope, complexity category 2B, with a detailed analysis of the sections and the nature of the terrain.

Участok R0–R1. 200 m, 35° to the brow on the left to avoid crevasses. Deep snow. Участok R1–R2. Slope steepness increases to 45°, 150 m. Участok R2–R3. Steepness increases to 80°, 40 m. Protection using ice axes. Участok R3–R4. Labyrinth among seracs in deep snow, 200–300 m. Bridges! 7–10 m walls are encountered. Entering a hollow. Участok R4–R5. 300 m, gentle slope in the hollow. Entering under the northern slopes of Urusvati. Участok R5–R6: Bergschrund. Passing at the most convenient spot under an overhanging lower ice wall, 7 m, 90°. Участok R6–R7: 45°, 70 m, deep snow. Reaching the ridge. Участok R7–R8:

  • 50 m along the ridge to the pre-summit ascent.
  • The ridge abuts against the slope.
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Ascent documentation for Peak 60 let Pobedy in Altai, category 1B complexity, a combined route of 1000 m with a height difference of 400 m.

Ascent Passport

Area — Altai, Katunsky ridge. Summit — Peak 60 let Pobedy. Route — combined. Estimated category of difficulty — 1B. Height difference — 400 m. Distance — 1000 m. Use of technical means — ice axes, crampons, rope. Travel time — 7–8 hours from overnight stay. Leader — Shumilov V. D., instructor cert. No. 697 Participants:

  • Kavunenko V. D. — Master of Sports of Russia International Class
  • Tinin Yu. P. — Candidate for Master of Sports
  • Odintsov Yu. F. — 1st sports category
  • Odintsov F. Yu. — badge "Alp. Rossii"
  • Bedarev M. V. — badge "Alp. Rossii"
  • Zhukov I. V. — unranked
  • Zhukova A. I. — unranked
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Description of a new Category IIb route to the summit of Aktru (4044 m) via the South Face, Altai, with a detailed breakdown of sections and technical details.

Ascent Record

  1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
  2. Aktru peak, 4044 m, via the South slope.
  3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Elevation gain: 500 m, distance: 700 m, average steepness of the main part: 45°.
  6. Pitons used: 2 rock, 2 ice.
  7. Team's total climbing hours: 5 hours.
  8. Leader: Afanasiev A.E., Candidate Master of Sports. Team members: Shakleev V.I., Candidate Master of Sports, Morozov V.V., Candidate Master of Sports.
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Description of the route to the summit of Aktru via the eastern ridge from the Big Aktru glacier, complexity category 3A.

Peak Aktru, via the East ridge from Bolshoy Aktru glacier, cat. III

From the camp... From the moraine lake, move along the edge of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier along the slopes of Stazerov Peak. The glacier is heavily crevassed, so move in rope teams until the couloir between Stazerov Peak and the large gendarme on the East ridge of Aktru Peak. Climb the couloir through the ruined rocks on the left-hand side of the couloir and reach the lowest point of the East ridge (2–2.5 hours). Follow the easy ridge to the large gendarme (control cairn) and continue in the direction of the summit until the pre-summit rise. The snowy-icy rise is the key section of the route (time 2–2.5 hours). Before the snowy-icy rise, there is a gendarme with a 5-meter rock wall (set up belay). The snowy-icy ridge goes up like a sickle. Move along the left part of the ridge. In the lower part, there is snow on the ridge, which

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Ascent to Mt. Aktru via the eastern wall (4A cat. of difficulty) through rocky islands and icy slopes, route description and key obstacles.

в. АКТРУ, east wall, 4A cat. dif. (according to the report on the first ascent, Tsybkin L.P., July 1959) Approach from GMS Aktru through the Uчитель pass to the Kuрумду gorge. Crossing the Kuрумду icefall:

  • Crossed from the right along the edge of the rocks в. Kuрумду in teams.
  • Time to cross the icefall — 1 h. Overnight stay on the scree under the wall в. Актру. Time from GMS Aktru to the overnight stay — 7 h. The route to the summit goes along the rocky ridge, divided by snow and ice sections into five rocky islands. The height of the wall — 800 m.
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