DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT OF PIK REVOLYUTSIONEROV VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE (Pamir, Bivachny Glacier) A group from the TsS DSO "Burevestnik" expedition, July 22, 1961. Pik Rеvolyutsionerov is located in a lateral spur of the Marx-Engels ridge (fig. 1). The first ascent of Pik Rеvolyutsionerov was made in 1957 by a group from the Uzbek expedition led by Nikonov. The group that reached the summit did not classify the route or leave any description of the ascent. A note retrieved from the summit (dated August 30, 1957) only indicates the direction of the path taken by the group to reach the summit and mentions the significant danger of the route due to:

• crumbling rocks
• steep rocks on the north-west wall. On July 22, 1961, a group from the TsS DSO "Burevestnik" expedition consisting of:

Ascent Log

1. Type of ascent: High-altitude technical climb.
2. Region of ascent: Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range, Peak Sentyabrsky (Szent-Ekzyuperi) northwest of the Abdukagor-2 pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Sentyabrsky (Szent-Ekzyuperi), 6063 m, combined route via the left edge of the western wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1160 m, average steepness up to the summit ridge 54°. Length of sections with 6th category complexity — 50 m, 5th category complexity — 500 m, 4th category complexity — 800 m, 3rd category complexity — 300 m.
6. Number of pitons hammered:

For belaying and creating artificial holds

rock — 30 ice — 87

Climbing category — B/technical. Climbing region — Pamir. Darvaz Range. Peak, its height, route — p. 5970 (40 let Oktyabrya), height 5970 via N.E. spur. First ascent. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A. Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 240 m. Average steepness — 50°. Pitons hammered: rock ( закладки ) — 50, ice — 44. Number of travel hours — 18. Number of nights and their characteristics — one, cut out in ice. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualification:

1. Efimov S. — MS
2. Lavrukhin V. — MS Team coach: — Efimov S. Date of departure and return — July 14–15, 1978. Dushanbe — 1978

Scheme of l. Bivachny area

Report

On the first ascent to Pik Tельмана (5970) via the Southwest ridge from the Bivachny glacier by the team of Ukr совет ДСО «СПАРТАК» consisting of:

• Komarov N.P. (team leader)
• Denisenko P.N.
• Ladnushkin V.M.
• Starodub O.V.
• Sulimovsky N.V. [^0]

Ascent Passport

I ascent class — first ascent. 2 Ascent area — Bivachny glacier. 3 Peak — p. Tel'mana (40 let Oktyabrya). Height — 5970 m. Ascent route — southwest ridge with a saddle between p. 5970 and 5700 m. 4 Assumed difficulty category — 3B. 5 Route description:

• Elevation gain — 800 m
• Average slope — 40–50°. Driven pitons: rock protection — 10 pcs. Duration: 7 hours. Number of nights and their characteristics: one overnight under the route on the glacier moraine. Surname and initials of the leader, participants and their qualification:

The climbing object announced by the group of instructors of the international mountaineering camp "Pamir-76" is well-known among Soviet mountaineers. It is the highest point in the USSR - Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) with an ascent to the Big Pamir Firn Plateau via Borodkin's route. For this reason, this report omits a geographical overview of the area, the history of its development, and a description of the approaches to the route. A few words should be said about the meteorological conditions in the area in July-August 1976.

• From July 5 to 20, the weather was stable: clear, with little wind even at heights up to 7000 m.
• After July 20, the weather became unstable. For example, on July 21, during the descent from Peak E. Korzhenevskaya, the group had to walk for a whole day with visibility not exceeding 500 m.
• From July 23 to 27, low cloud cover and continuous light rain were observed in the area. At an altitude of 7000 m, there was a very strong wind, and snow caught the group of the Tajik Medical-Biological Expedition, which, after waiting out the bad weather in a storm camp, was forced to abandon the ascent.
• However, during the ascent on August 7-9, the weather was good, but it was very cold: on the night of August 6-7, the minimum temperature at an altitude of 6000 m was –28 °C.

Acclimatization and training ascent

The group of climbers arrived at the Buluiev clearing as part of the collective of instructors of the international mountaineering camp "Pamir-76" on August 8, having previously made an acclimatization trip to an altitude of 4500 m in the Achik-Tash clearing area. On July 1, all group members left the base camp for an acclimatization hike. The main objectives of the exit were:

Ascent

to Peak Kommunizma from Walter Glacier via the spur with an exit to the ridge between Peaks Izvestiy and 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. Protocol No. 422 dated 09.11.1976. Classify the route: traverse of Peak 6700 m — Peak Kommunizma with ascent via the northwest spur and Voykov Ridge, ice and snow. Credit the group with the first ascent.

First Ascent

by the MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group, led by N. Cherny. Peak Kommunizma is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, at the junction of the Peter I and Academy of Sciences ranges. Its northwest slopes descend onto the Pamir Firn Plateau. The plateau drops steeply to the north onto the Walter and Traube glaciers. The northern slopes of Peaks 50th Anniversary of VLKSM (6700 m) and Izvestiy descend onto the first glacier. Two routes to Peak Kommunizma have been established from Walter Glacier: the Borodkin route, which exits onto the plateau, and the Bezzubkin route, which exits onto Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. The MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group made an ascent of Peak Kommunizma via a new route from Walter Glacier. The route follows a snow and ice spur that leads to the ridge between Peak Izvestiy and Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. From there, the group followed a previously established path via Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM and then along the northeast ridge of Peak Kommunizma to its summit. The descent followed the ascent route down to the saddle between Peak Kommunizma and Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM, then the group descended onto the firn plateau and along the "Burevestnik" ridge to Fortambek Glacier. The group departed from the base camp with the following members:

Team Composition

1. Golubkov B.S. — team leader: 1st sports category (Moscow "Trud")
2. Vlasov V. 1st sports category (Moscow "Trud")
3. Milovanovich V.D. 1st sports category (Leningrad "Trud")
4. Polyakov D.A. 1st sports category (Leningrad "Trud")

Ascent Description

In July-August 1961, a mountaineering expedition organized by the Central Council of the "Trud" Sports Society was in the Pamir region, near Peak Kommunizma.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit 6231 m via the south-west edge from the Ayudzhilga valley on the Central Pamir, made by alpinists from Leningrad's “SPARTAK” on July 27–30, 1966. The summit was named: “Peak YAKIR”

Team Leader	(KORKIN I. V.)
Coach	(KOLCHIN A.A.)
In the summer of 1966, Leningrad alpinists from the Spartak sports society went on an expedition to the Central Pamir to climb peaks in the unexplored Ayudzhilga river valley - a left tributary of the Muksu river. The first team of the expedition traversed the peaks of Pik Voroshilov - Pik Evgenia Korzhenevskoi, participating in the 1966 USSR championship.
The second team, consisting of alpinists with 1st and 2nd sports categories, made several first ascents to unnamed peaks surrounding the Ayudzhilga glacier cirque during the same period.
Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the Great October Revolution, the alpinists decided to name the newly conquered peaks after prominent commanders of the Red Army: Tukhachevsky, Blyukher, Yegorov, Yakir, and Uborevich. The peak with a height of 6231 m, described in this report, was named after Yakir.

Geography of the area and characteristics of the peaks

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF GIRYAG VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 1B, BY THE TEAM OF THE MOUNTAINEERING CAMP MANAGEMENT FOR THE PERIOD FROM NOVEMBER 5, 2019 TO NOVEMBER 5, 2019

I. Climbing Report

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Rastorguev Alexander Alekseevich, Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Belkin Sergey Valentinovich, no rank. Tsyganova Ekaterina Dmitrievna, no rank. Simutin Sergey Romanovich, no rank. Chernyshev Andrey Gennadievich, no rank.
1.3	Full name of the coach	Rastorguev Alexander Alekseevich
1.4	Organization	LLC "Mountaineering Camp Management"
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object