Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Caucasus, Adyr-Su valley
3. Mt. Dzhailyk, via the Central counterfort of the South wall (Khazkevich's route)
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Height difference — 600 m Height difference of the wall section — 300 m, route length — 1137 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 202 m, average steepness of the wall section — 80°
6. Pitons used: rock, bolt, ice, and chock placements: 38/3, 4×, 1+2×, 49/6× (reuse of previously driven pitons)
7. Travel time: — 8.5 hours, days — 1

Moscow Alpinism Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

Ascent Report

To the peak Dzhailyk, 4424 m, via 1st South buttress, 3rd rib by Frantsuzov's route Team KAiS MPEI Moscow, 2017

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, branching off from Mestia-tau peak, Dzhailyk node between Donkin and Kilar passes, section number according to the classification table 2.4.1.
2. Dzhailyk peak 4424 m via 1st South buttress, 3rd rib (Frantsuzov's route 1970).
3. Difficulty category: 5B.

Report of the Rostov Region team on the ascent to the summit of Jailyk (4424) via the 1st South Bastion of the Western Edge "Franzuzov's Route" 5B

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Caucasus, 2.4.1. From Gumachi pass to Kitlod pass (Adyrsu, Lekzyr, Chegem valleys);
2. Peak, route: Jailyk 4424 m via the 1st South Bastion of the Western Edge "Franzuzov's Route" 1970;
3. Category: 5B;
4. Route type: rock;
5. Route height difference: 670 m; Route length: 905 m
   • Length of sections: V category — 180 m
   • Length of sections: VI category — 80 m

North-West Federal District Championship in Alpinism (high-altitude technical class)

Climbing Report

on the ascent of Dzhailik peak (4424 m) via 1st S buttress of 3 rib (M. Franzuzov's route, 1970, 5B grade) The route was completed on August 5, 2024. Participants:

• Yakuba
• Nikolai
• Chetverikov
• Denis

Contents

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technically challenging. 2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Ortokara peak, Adyrkh spur, Dzhaulyak. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzhaulyak, 4533 m, via the eastern wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 590 m, average steepness — 75 °, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. – 83 m. 6. Pitons driven: * rock: for belaying — 43, for creating I.T.O. – 34 * ice: for belaying — 2, for creating I.T.O. – 1 * bolt: for belaying — 1, for creating I.T.O. – 4

Description of the First Ascent of Peak "4020" (Peak A. Zyuzin)

1. Historical Background

Alexander Semenovich Zyuzin (1903–1970), an outstanding Soviet mountaineer, Honored Master of Sports, and one of the founders of mountaineering in Ukraine. He was a mountaineering instructor since 1934, organizer of the first student mountaineering expedition to Elbrus in 1936, founder of the "Stal" alpine camp in the Adyrsu gorge on the Central Caucasus, and head of the training department of the All-Union School of Mountaineering Instructors, Ukrainian School of Instructors, and others. Since 1937, he was the creator and first chairman of the Dnepropetrovsk regional section (federation) of mountaineering, a member of the presidiums of the All-Union and Ukrainian sections (federations) of mountaineering. In 1937, he was awarded the title of Master of Sports in mountaineering, and in 1947, he was awarded the honorary title of Honored Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering. A.M. Zyuzin, a scientist-geodesist, is credited with the first research and mapping of many mountainous regions of the Central Caucasus, including Adyrsu, Tyutyusu, Sugan, and Tepli. In these regions, he made numerous first ascents and first passages between 1937 and 1947. In particular, in the Adyrsu-Tyutyusu region, he first conquered the peaks of Orubashi, Kenchat, Kayarta, and others, and passed new routes on Adyrsu-bashi and others. In the Sullukol gorge region, A.M. Zyuzin made the first ascents and gave names to Peak Stal (3855 m) and Termen-bashi (3950 m). To commemorate the centenary of A.M. Zyuzin's birth, the SOAB "Ullutau" together with the mountaineering expedition of the Dnepropetrovsk regional mountaineering federation decided to organize the first ascent to the peak "4020 m" in the Sullukol gorge, located between the peaks Stal and Termen, discovered by A.M. Zyuzin, and propose to name this peak "Peak Zyuzin".

2. Geographical Characteristics

204. Kayarta Glavnaya via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the "Adylsu" alp camp to the Shternberg Pass through the Tyutyusu gorge is described in routes 184 and 203. From the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Kayarta Glavnaya peak. From here, ascend simple and solid ridge rocks. Bypass the first 30-meter-high gendarme on the right (belay!). Beyond it:

• ascend the severely damaged simple rocky ridge,
• then traverse along the right snowy slope to reach the rocky edge of the South shoulder,
• ascend 50–60 m up the moderately difficult rocks of the edge. Then:

115. Map for the Eastern Ridge Route (Combined Climb, Category 2A Difficulty, Figures 5, 13)

From the "Bashil" tourist base (group of 4-12 people), approach the confluence of the Bashil and Jailyak rivers. From here, ascend via a steep trail on the left bank of Jailyak, leading into the valley of this river. Continue along the valley, cross the river via a bridge near a shepherd's hut to the right bank of Jailyak, and follow the trail along steep "sheep's foreheads" to the point where the Kenchat River joins Jailyak from the right. Bypass the "sheep's foreheads" from the right, ascending to a grassy shoulder, and from there, traverse across scree slopes, partially overgrown with grass, to reach the moraines of the Kenchat gorge. Ascend via the moraines and then a simple, long glacier of Kenchat to its upper cirque. From the "Bashil" tourist base, the journey takes 7-9 hours. From the glacier, ascend via a wide, scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the right onto the Eastern Ridge of the Kayarta peak. Here, turn left and follow the heavily degraded Eastern Ridge, featuring several straightforward, not very tall gendarmes that can be overcome directly (with protection), to reach the summit ridge. From here, ascend along the gentle, simple, degraded rocky ridge or a snowy slope on the right side of the lengthy Eastern Ridge to the summit of Kayarta. Route Components:

• Ascend via a scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the Eastern Ridge
• Traverse left onto the Eastern Ridge
• Overcome gendarmes along the Eastern Ridge using protection
• Reach the summit ridge

117. Kayarta —

(combined route, category II, fig. 5, 13). The path from Tyrnyauz (group of 4–20 people) to the Western Kayarta stream is described in route 106. Having crossed the stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream to its upper cirque above two waterfalls. Then:

• ascend along the right bank,
• then cross to the left bank,
• move along the left bank to the Western Kayarta glacier. On the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses), bypass the icefall. Above it, cross the glacier to the right and approach the left slope of the Western ridge of Kayarta peak. From the glacier, having passed the bergschrund, ascend to the Western ridge of Kayarta. From here, along a gently sloping wide snow-ice slope on the left side of the 450–500-meter Western ridge with a 20-meter ascent in the upper part, reach the summit of Kayarta. From the Tyutyusu gorge — 4–5 hours.

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.