115. Map for the Eastern Ridge Route (Combined Climb, Category 2A Difficulty, Figures 5, 13)
From the "Bashil" tourist base (group of 4-12 people), approach the confluence of the Bashil and Jailyak rivers. From here, ascend via a steep trail on the left bank of Jailyak, leading into the valley of this river. Continue along the valley, cross the river via a bridge near a shepherd's hut to the right bank of Jailyak, and follow the trail along steep "sheep's foreheads" to the point where the Kenchat River joins Jailyak from the right.
Bypass the "sheep's foreheads" from the right, ascending to a grassy shoulder, and from there, traverse across scree slopes, partially overgrown with grass, to reach the moraines of the Kenchat gorge. Ascend via the moraines and then a simple, long glacier of Kenchat to its upper cirque.
From the "Bashil" tourist base, the journey takes 7-9 hours.
From the glacier, ascend via a wide, scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the right onto the Eastern Ridge of the Kayarta peak. Here, turn left and follow the heavily degraded Eastern Ridge, featuring several straightforward, not very tall gendarmes that can be overcome directly (with protection), to reach the summit ridge. From here, ascend along the gentle, simple, degraded rocky ridge or a snowy slope on the right side of the lengthy Eastern Ridge to the summit of Kayarta.
Route Components:
- Ascend via a scree-filled couloir (prone to rockfall) to the Eastern Ridge
- Traverse left onto the Eastern Ridge
- Overcome gendarmes along the Eastern Ridge using protection
- Reach the summit ridge
- Ascend along a gentle, degraded rocky ridge or snowy slope to the summit of Kayarta
From the Kenchat glacier, the climb takes 3-4 hours.