- Kayarta Glavnaya via the South Ridge (Category 1B route).
The path from the "Adylsu" alp camp to the Shternberg Pass through the Tyutyusu gorge is described in routes 184 and 203. From the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Kayarta Glavnaya peak. From here, ascend simple and solid ridge rocks. Bypass the first 30-meter-high gendarme on the right (belay!). Beyond it:
- ascend the severely damaged simple rocky ridge,
- then traverse along the right snowy slope to reach the rocky edge of the South shoulder,
- ascend 50–60 m up the moderately difficult rocks of the edge.
Then:
- descend from the edge into a large couloir that runs from the ridge gap between Kayarta peak and its South shoulder,
- ascend the simple, severely damaged rocks on the right side of this wide couloir (rockfall hazard!) to reach the gap,
- from the gap, ascend simple ridge rocks to reach Kayarta Glavnaya peak.
The ascent from Shternberg Pass takes 2.5–3 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The route takes 3 days. Additionally, bring 2 ice axes.