Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Uzbekistan, 5140 m, via the center of the North face
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B category
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1000 m Average steepness 65° Section lengths:
   • III category — 240 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Alai Range, Ulitor gorge
3. Peak — Bezymyanaya (4482 m), Central counterfort of the North-West wall, combined
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference from the bergschrund — 790 m, average steepness — 60°, route length — 950 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 410 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock cams ice screws | 43 | 20 | 8 | | :-: | :-: | :-: |

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Aidarbek gorge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Aidarbek peak, 5127 m, via the North face (Zayev's route)
4. Difficulty category: 5B category difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1120 m length of 5B category difficulty sections — 202 m average steepness — 58°
6. Pitons hammered:

Description of the First Ascent to the Peak

Peak Yaana Kreuksa (4634 m) via Route 4B cat. diff.

(Eastern Ridge) July 20–21, 1977

1. The approach from the base camp (helicopter pad at the mouth of the Kemisdykty River) to the Allaudin Glacier takes 3.5 hours. Crossing the glacier (open in late July) and ascending to the right slope of the glacier's side – the foot of Yaana Kreuksa Peak – takes 1.5 hours. It's advisable to stop for the night here to start the route early in the morning. In the evening, rocks occasionally fall from the couloir to the right of the route.
2. Departure on the route – no later than 7:00. Overcoming the R1–R2 section does not require special technique, but traversing the ice slope towards the steep rocky buttress as you approach the bergschrund requires crampons (one pair per rope team) and ice screws. Exiting the bergschrund upwards is challenging and requires cutting steps with piton protection. This is crucial as the climbers in the pair were carrying backpacks. Almost immediately after exiting the bergschrund, the traverse of the slope continues with a steepness of 60–70%, cutting steps in a closed stance with the left hand. The second climber in the team monitors the slope.
3. Section R3–R4. The ascent to the steep buttress is challenging. Caution is required as the inclined slabs have unstable holds. Pitons are used – vertical, horizontal, and U-shaped. There's a small platform for organizing protection and pulling up backpacks. The direction is upwards to the left.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — TECHNICAL
2. Ascent area — PAMIR-ALAY, ALAYSKY RANGE, KOK-SU VALLEY
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. YANA KREUSA, 4634 m, RIGHT EDGE OF THE SOUTHERN WALL CHIMNEY
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: the route is rocky, with an altitude difference of 850 m, wall section 485 m, total length 1230 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 400 m, 6th difficulty category — 52 m. Average steepness of the route — 50° — wall — 80°
6. Pitons used: rock — 78, ice — –, bolted — –, chocks — 12
7. Total climbing hours — 25 hours
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two bivouacs with lying positions: the first one on a meadow under the wall, the second on a ledge

9. Kurgan Glavnaya from the west via Central couloir. The route is combined, category of difficulty 2A (fig. 5, 6, 15, 16, 18). Length — 1200 m, ascent — 700 m, time — 2.5–3 hours. The path from "Kirgizat" alpine camp (group of 2–4 people) to the initial bivouac on the moraine of Kurgan gorge under the Central couloir of Kurgan peak — see route 10. Departure from the initial bivouac at 3:00–4:00. Up the scree slope, then up the wide 35–40° scree Central couloir for 600–800 m (rockfall, protection). Further 300–350 m up the right branch of the couloir, from which exit left to a site above the long rocky Western spur — a bastion dividing the upper part of the Central couloir. From the site, 120–150 m up and right along a 30–35° steep scree slope to the snowy shoulder of the Western ridge. From the shoulder, left and 80–100 m up simple and moderately difficult 40–50° rocks of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, protection) to the summit of Kurgan Glavnaya. From the initial bivouac — 2.5–3 hours. The route is prone to rockfall!! img-0.jpeg Fig. 18. Kurgan Glavnaya from the west

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Gissar Ridge
3. Climbing route with summit height: Zamin Karor 1st West via NW ridge, Shramko - 4303 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category - 6B
5. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1100 m, average steepness 73°, length of sections IV–VI cat. diff. 850 m
6. Pitons driven: rock 57, ice 0, bolt 0
7. Number of travel hours: 29

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Margib mountain junction.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Regi-Kolon, 4060 m, South-Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, length of sections R5–R6 cat. diff. — 35 m, average steepness — 67°.
6. 22 rock anchors were hammered in for belaying.
7. Number of climbing hours: 8 hours.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: no overnight stays.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualifications:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (northern part), Alaudin Lakes area. Section № — 5.3.1., item № 27.
2. Peak name: Bodkhona (5138 m)
3. Route name: via northwestern counterfort
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route character: rock
6. Height difference: 1420 m Route length: 2123 m Length of sections: V difficulty category — 255 m, VI difficulty category — 13 m Average steepness:

¹