Ascent Log

1. Ascent category - technical
2. Ascent area - group of volcanoes 30 km from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky at 55° N
3. Peak, its height, route - Kozelsky peak (2070 m), first western edge
4. Proposed category difficulty - 3B
5. Route description: | # | Sections | Length | Average steepness | |:--|:-----------|:-------------|:------------------| | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | | --- | ---------- | ------------- | ---------------- |

Prot. No. 312 dated 17/X-70

Description of the ascent to the "Tooth" of Kozel'skiy volcano via the Western ridge, category 2A difficulty.

1. General description of the summit and its location.

Kozel'skaya sopka is part of the Avachinskaya group of volcanoes, located in the eastern part of the Kekhur ridge. The absolute height of Kozel'skaya sopka above sea level is 2210 m. It is an extinct volcano. Its slopes are composed of basalt and diabase. The slopes are generally gentle and mostly covered with a thick layer of slag. In the summer months, the pre-summit ridge is cleared of snow, exposing several gendarmes. However, snow persists on the slopes, even on the southern ones, throughout the summer. The northern slopes of the sopka are the walls of a large ancient crater, covered with ice and firn. These walls are densely strewn with basaltic "rock fingers". The volcano has three peaks:

• Western,
• Central,
• Eastern. The highest peak is the Eastern one, which is a rocky "tooth" rising 50 m above the general massif. The walls of the "tooth" are sheer on all sides. There is a non-wall passage along the south-eastern ridge (category 1B difficulty route). A glacier is located on the western side of the sopka (the glacier serves as a boundary between Avachinskiy and Kozel'skiy volcanoes), from which the Kozel'skiy stream flows. The foot of the volcano is heavily dissected by ravines. On the eastern side of the foot, there are quarries of construction organizations developing slag.

2. Approach to the ascent location.

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DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO KORYAKSKY VOLCANO VIA THE NORTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B Category 3A (voice)

1. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE PEAK AND ITS LOCATION See the description of the ascent to Koryaksky volcano via the South Ridge, category 3B.
2. TRANSITION TO THE STARTING POINT OF THE ASCENT See the description of the ascent to Koryaksky volcano via the South Ridge. The dry riverbed is blocked in its upper reaches by an elevation overgrown with dense alder bushes. Only near the left bank, the river flowing from the Avachinsky glacier has carved a deep, narrow, solid bed. The river is turbulent and very muddy. The road continues along the right bank of the dry riverbed through thickets of alder bushes to the volcanological station. Practically, this road can be traversed at the end of July to October. The gullies filled with snow pose a serious obstacle for ordinary vehicles during May-July. If the vehicle cannot pass, further movement is on foot. The best passage is closer to the left bank of the dry riverbed through sparse alder bushes. The walking time to the volcanological station is 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes.

Route Description

to the Main Peak of Ganal'skiye Ostryaki from the northwest, category 3B difficulty

I. Approach and Ascent (see area map).

Drive along the Milkovo road to the bridge over the Vakhtang Mal'kinskiy river between km 145 and 146. Get off the road after the bridge. There's a quarry on the right. Cross it perpendicular to the road and exit onto a forest road. Follow the forest road 8-10 km along the river valley to a clearing with a tent frame (on the right side of the road). On the left side of the road, opposite the frame, there's a passage through the alder bushes. The trail begins there. Follow the trail along the left slope of the valley. Do not turn left uphill. The trail leads to a terrace - a hollow. Follow it to a dry riverbed that crosses the trail at the forest and shrub boundary. Cross to the other side of the riverbed and ascend along it for 50-70 m. The trail then:

• turns right,
• follows logging roads through alder bushes to a stream flowing from Mt. Yurchik. Cross the stream, walk along it downstream for 100-150 m, and turn left onto a terrace above the stream flowing from the Ostriaki cirque.

Ascending the summit of Klyuchevskaya Sopka from the west 2A cat. difficulty

Description

Klyuchevskoy volcano is the largest active volcano in Asia and the highest point in the RSFSR. Its height is 4750 m. The volcano has a regular conical shape with slopes of 35–40°. This volcano is still actively erupting. If you reach the summit during weak emissions from the vent, you can stay there overnight and witness an amazing spectacle. Above the crater, there is a fiery glow and fountains of sparks. The crater walls are 350–400 m high. To the north, the height decreases to 200 m. There are cracks along the entire perimeter of the crater:

• From the north, the crack reaches the bottom of the crater.
• You can enter the crater through the northern crack, but it involves certain risks. On the southern side, there is a crack with a depth of up to 25 m. On its left slope is the highest point of the summit — along the ascent route, there is a cairn with a note and an ice axe driven in. The ascent to Klyuchevskoy volcano is technically not difficult, but due to frequent and prolonged rockfalls, it requires great attention. The entire ascent must be done in teams with simultaneous belaying.

1. Approach to the starting point of the ascent

Photo 1. Beginning of section 2. Diagonal rocky couloir, steepness 40–45 °, composed of large debris material. Insurance through ledges. Photo 2. Section 2. Final part of the rocky couloir. Next is the transition to the eastern ridge. Photo 3. Entrance to the ice couloir. Steepness 45–50 degrees. Insurance via rock anchor. Photo 4. Inner corner (sect. 4). Firmly formed rocks, climbing of increased difficulty.

Individual ice seracs reach 50–550. The snow is not deep — 30–40 cm, but it lies on a firn cushion. Movement with alternating belay through ice axe. In the upper part, before reaching the pre-summit ridge:

• the slope is more gentle
• simultaneous movement On the ridge leading to the summit, there are a number of snow seracs. The steepness of these seracs is 60–65°. The seracs drop off with sheer walls to the west, and to the east, they slope down with steep snow-ice slopes. The snow is fluffy and deep. It takes a long time to stamp out footholds. The exit to the summit is along a sharp rocky-snowy edge. A cairn is built 3–4 m below the highest point on the last rocky outcrop. The time taken to move from the highest point of the wall from the overnight stop to the summit is 5–6 hours. The descent from the summit is along the eastern ridge to the "stockade", which is bypassed on the right, following the path, with an exit onto a snowy ridge that goes across the main ridge leading to the summit of 5050 m. There is a place to spend the night in a characteristic hollow. On the summit of 5050 m, a 4th control cairn is built. The time taken to move from the summit of 5285 m to 5050 m is 1.5–2.0 hours. The descent from the summit of 5050 m is along a snowy edge — a "needle" — to the north. The edge is very sharp and dense, 10–15 cm wide. To the left, there is a steep slope with dense firn; to the right, there is deep snow that gives way underfoot. Descent along the "needle" to the rocky outcrops:

which is bypassed on the left with careful belaying — there is a control cairn on the site. From the site, we go up to the next pillar with a broken wall along the chimney, about 20 m high and up to 80° steep. The most difficult section is climbed with careful belaying. We go up the wall to the ridge of the pillar to the left, then descend into a small gap between the pillars and climb up to the next pillar along the crevice to the right. A number of pillars are climbed straight on, along medium-difficulty rocks with careful belaying. Caution is required when traversing ridge sections as there are loose stones. Approximately in the middle of the route, there is a pillar with an internal corner and a wall, about 15 m high and 80° steep. The difficult section is climbed with careful belaying. The exit is up the wall to the right, then up along the corner to the left. The exit is into a gap between the next pillar, which has a small wall (3–6 m) ending in an inclined smooth slab. The exit is onto a sharp rocky ridge about 20 m long, where the second control cairn is located. Further, the path goes along a steep snowy couloir, 60–65° steep (ice is possible). Keeping to the left and then to the right side of the couloir, along the rocks, we come out onto the forepeak, where there is a place for organizing an overnight stay. From the forepeak, the path goes along a gentle snowy slope to the summit. The height according to the aviation altimeter is 5150 m. The entire route takes 10–11 hours. The descent along the steep snowy-icy slope to the north is very difficult and is traversed with careful belaying. The slope is avalanche-prone

Description

of the route to the summit 4670 m (along the south-eastern ridge) The summit 4670 m is located in the spur of the Zaalaysky ridge, where the peak Sverdlova is situated. North of the peak Sverdlova, the spur bifurcates into two ridges:

• One initially goes northwest, then turns northeast.
• The other, shorter one, goes immediately northeast. The summit 4670 m is located in it. The route begins from the "3800" camp, located in the upper reaches of the Kок-Kyik valley, crosses an old moraine and approaches the ridge of the summit 4670 m. The azimuth of the summit from

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.