Ascending the summit of Klyuchevskaya Sopka from the west 2A cat. difficulty

Description

Klyuchevskoy volcano is the largest active volcano in Asia and the highest point in the RSFSR. Its height is 4750 m. The volcano has a regular conical shape with slopes of 35–40°.

This volcano is still actively erupting. If you reach the summit during weak emissions from the vent, you can stay there overnight and witness an amazing spectacle. Above the crater, there is a fiery glow and fountains of sparks.

The crater walls are 350–400 m high. To the north, the height decreases to 200 m. There are cracks along the entire perimeter of the crater:

• From the north, the crack reaches the bottom of the crater.
• You can enter the crater through the northern crack, but it involves certain risks.

On the southern side, there is a crack with a depth of up to 25 m. On its left slope is the highest point of the summit — along the ascent route, there is a cairn with a note and an ice axe driven in.

The ascent to Klyuchevskoy volcano is technically not difficult, but due to frequent and prolonged rockfalls, it requires great attention. The entire ascent must be done in teams with simultaneous belaying.

1. Approach to the starting point of the ascent

The approach from the base camp to the Dolina Parazitov goes along the path to the summit of Kamien. From the valley, we move along the Bogdanovich glacier along its right edge in the direction of ascent.

At this time of year, the Bogdanovich glacier presents a grim picture. Its color is black and white, and it is cut by deep crevasses. The right edge of the glacier is difficult to pass, but it can be overcome and leads almost to the pass between Kamien and Klyuchevskaya.

After 2 hours and 00 minutes of travel from Dolina Parazitov, the right edge of the glacier abuts a ridge extending in a northwesterly direction from Kamien. We ascend this ridge to its broadening and transition to a plateau. The plateau offers a wonderful view of Klyuchevskaya and Ploskaya summits.

Follow these steps:

• Cross the plateau in a northeasterly direction, keeping the saddle between Klyuchevskaya and Kamien as a landmark.
• Reach the place where the plateau drops off to the glacier flowing from Kamien.
• Find a passage along the cliff and descend to the glacier.
• Cross the glacier, reach the slag island, and set up camp.

The travel time from the start of the ascent is 2 hours and 50 minutes. The camp is located under the summit of Kamien on its northwestern side, within an hour's walk from the pass and a hour and a half from the western slopes of Klyuchevskaya. Day 2 — reconnaissance of the route along the glacier to the western crack.

2. Description of the ascent by sections

The relative height from the camp to the highest point of the summit is 1850 m.

R1

• Elevation gain – 400 m.
• Steepness – 10°.
• At the end of the section, when reaching the slopes of the volcano – 30°.
• Movement on crampons and in teams with probing – many hidden crevasses.
• Movement time – 2 hours 30 minutes.

R2. Elevation gain 450 m. Slope steepness 30° at the end of the section – 45°. Rock slabs 10 m vertically.

Movement in teams, slope of medium scree with individual lava outcrops. Slabs are passed with alternating belaying.

Movement time – 2 hours 20 minutes.

R3

Elevation gain – 380 m. Steepness – 30–40°. Slope of fine slag with individual lava boulders. Movement in teams. Travel time – 2 hours.

R4

Elevation gain – 410 m. Steepness – 30–40°. Slope of fine and medium scree with areas of flow ice and firn.

Movement in teams, sometimes with step cutting. Movement time – 2 hours 40 minutes.

R5

• Elevation gain – 210 m.
• Steepness – 45°.
• Slope of ash and fine slag.
• Movement in teams.
• Movement time – 2 hours 30 minutes.

3. Descent from the summit

The descent is made along the ascent route:

• in teams;
• with simultaneous belaying;
• in some places — with the installation of handrails (up to two ropes).

Time spent on descent – 6 hours.

4. Calculation of route completion time

Day 1

• Approach from the base camp to the overnight stay – 14 hours 50 minutes.

Day 2

• Reconnaissance of the ascent route – 4 hours.
• Observation of the route.

Day 3

• R1 – 2 hours 10 minutes.
• R2 – 2 hours 20 minutes.
• R3 – 2 hours.
• R4 – 2 hours 40 minutes.
• R5 – 2 hours 30 minutes.
• Time spent on descent – 6 hours.

Total – 17 hours 4 minutes.

Day 4

• Return to the base camp – 10–12 hours.

5. Recommendation for climbers

All participants must have crampons. Everyone goes to the summit wearing helmets. The group can consist of any number of people.

Special equipment for a group of 6 people:

1. Main ropes – 3×40 m.
2. Ice screws – 3 pcs.
3. Rock hammer – 1 pc., cordelette for loops – 10 pcs.
4. Helmets – 6 pcs.
5. Crampons – 6 pairs.
6. Personal equipment.