which is bypassed on the left with careful belaying — there is a control cairn on the site. From the site, we go up to the next pillar with a broken wall along the chimney, about 20 m high and up to 80° steep. The most difficult section is climbed with careful belaying. We go up the wall to the ridge of the pillar to the left, then descend into a small gap between the pillars and climb up to the next pillar along the crevice to the right. A number of pillars are climbed straight on, along medium-difficulty rocks with careful belaying. Caution is required when traversing ridge sections as there are loose stones. Approximately in the middle of the route, there is a pillar with an internal corner and a wall, about 15 m high and 80° steep. The difficult section is climbed with careful belaying. The exit is up the wall to the right, then up along the corner to the left. The exit is into a gap between the next pillar, which has a small wall (3–6 m) ending in an inclined smooth slab. The exit is onto a sharp rocky ridge about 20 m long, where the second control cairn is located. Further, the path goes along a steep snowy couloir, 60–65° steep (ice is possible). Keeping to the left and then to the right side of the couloir, along the rocks, we come out onto the forepeak, where there is a place for organizing an overnight stay. From the forepeak, the path goes along a gentle snowy slope to the summit. The height according to the aviation altimeter is 5150 m. The entire route takes 10–11 hours. The descent along the steep snowy-icy slope to the north is very difficult and is traversed with careful belaying. The slope is avalanche-prone and ends in ice falls. When descending, one should keep to the right side, along the rocks, until reaching the ridge going to the northeast. From the ridge, the descent is along a snowy slope (ice is possible) to the site of the first overnight stay.

Attached files

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment