Report

on the ascent of Pik Suloeva via the SW wall, right buttress, category 5B, second ascent, Central Pamir, Fortambek Glacier; accomplished by a group of climbers from the CS F and S expedition from August 10 to 12, 1980, consisting of:

• Petrov A.E. — leader, 1st sports category, instructor
• Maltsev I.V. — participant, 1st sports category, doctor
• Troyanov V.M. — participant, 1st sports category
• Filonov Yu.V. — participant, 1st sports category MOSCOW 1980 Since the first ascenders do not submit their route for classification, by agreement with V. M. Bozhukov, this route can be considered a first ascent. November 20, 1980 A.E. Petrov

Pik Suloeva

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir range, spurs of the Petra Pervogo range
3. Peak, its height — p. 5493 m., from SW via rock aiguilles, ascent route first ascent, named peak 1500 years of Kiev
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference length of sections 5–6 cat. length of sections 3–4 cat.

“Pik Ukraina”, elevation 5030 m. “Kurayshapak” ridge, North-Eastern spurs of the Peter I ridge, PAMIR. Republic of Tajikistan.

Ascent Passport

1. Country, mountain system name: Republic of Tajikistan, Pamir.
2. Ascent class: High-altitude.
3. Ascent area, ridge: North-Eastern spurs of the Peter I ridge.
4. Summit, its elevation, ascent route: “Pik Ukraina” 5030 m, Central counterfort of the Eastern wall.
5. Proposed difficulty category: 3B, combined.
6. Route characteristics: elevation difference: 1430 m, length of sections 2–3 cat. diff.: 600 m, 4 cat. diff.: 100 m, average steepness: 30°.
7. Number of pitons driven or anchor placements used:

Umarov's Report

On the ascent to the summit "Peak 5600" (approximately 2B category of difficulty) by a group of climbers from the MAI sports club The summit "Peak 5600" is located in the Central Pamir region, in one of the northern ridges of the Peter the First ridge. Diagram of the summit location. From a sporting perspective, this summit is of interest as an object for training and acclimatization ascents. Characteristic features of this route, as well as many routes in this area, are:

• Unstable rock formations;
• Unpredictable weather conditions;
• High altitude. The initial section of the route: the upper part of the Suloev meadow (absolute height 3900 m) - the boundary of the snow cover; it passes to the north on the left side of the couloir along a medium scree with an average steepness of approximately 30–40°. Further along the snowy slope, it becomes gentler at a height of 5100 m. At this height, near a large reddish rock (about 10 m in diameter), an overnight stay was organized for acclimatization purposes. The entire section of the route from the Suloev meadow to the reddish rock took 5 hours. The path then lies along a snowy ridge with a gentle slope to the northwest to the pre-summit rise. The time taken for this section was 1 hour. The pre-summit rise is a snowy slope with small rocky outcrops with a steepness of approximately 40–45°. Here, protection is possible using an ice axe. The time taken for this section and the descent to the reddish rock was 2 hours. The further descent follows the ascent route.

General Information about the Peak

Peak Elvira Shatayeva (5690 m) is located in one of the lateral ridges branching off from the Peter the First Ridge (Central Pamir). The peak was first conquered in 1974 by a group led by V. Shatayev. The ascent was made along the southwestern slopes of the peak from the Tanymas Glacier. In 1976, a group of Ukrainian climbers made the first ascent to the peak from the east, 25. Group composition:

• I. Kovtun V.G. — MS — leader
• Galas F. — IMS — participant
• Podgorsky V.M. — IMS — participant

4. Tkachenko V.F. — 1st category — participant
5. Okhrimenko V.N. — 1st category — participant
6. Kovtun N.P. — 1st category — participant

After the couloir, traversing left upwards the scree slopes, we come to a destroyed counterfort of yellowish color. On the left (in the direction of travel) side of this counterfort, on the border of rocks and snow, we move straight up to the exit to the main ridge, leading to the summit. The ridge is snow-rocky, heavily destroyed, in some places under the snow, there is ice. The path along the ridge is unambiguous and leads straight to the summit "feathers". On the ridge, there are several small gendarmes, overcome head-on, and two are bypassed on the left. When bypassing gendarmes, the insurance is hook-type. Under the snow, ice is possible. There are several large cornices on the ridge, hanging over the right (in the direction of travel) slopes of the ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak 5244 m, via the left part of the western wall
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B cat. dif.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 550 m,
   • average steepness — 70°,
   • length of sections:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — South-Western Pamir, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — First ascent via the center of the North-Eastern wall of peak 5241 m (Marshal Zhukov G.K. peak)
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference 1250 m
   • average steepness from bergschrund 76°
   • wall proper 80°
   • length of complex sections 980 m
5. Number of pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — V-3 Pamir, Rushan ridge
3. Ascent route — first ascent to Peak Korolev S.P. via the southern ridge 5525 m
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference — 700 m (1100 m from the bivouac)
   • average steepness — up to 45°
   • length of complex routes — 200 m
5. Pitons hammered:
   • rock — 10

Ascent Record

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamiro-Alai, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — first ascent to Peak Kosmonavtov via the east ridge (5420 m)
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference — 700 m
   • average steepness — 35–40°
   • length of difficult sections — 100 m
5. Pitons used:
   • rock — 2