“Pik Ukraina”, elevation 5030 m. “Kurayshapak” ridge, North-Eastern spurs of the Peter I ridge, PAMIR. Republic of Tajikistan.

Ascent Passport

1. Country, mountain system name: Republic of Tajikistan, Pamir.
2. Ascent class: High-altitude.
3. Ascent area, ridge: North-Eastern spurs of the Peter I ridge.
4. Summit, its elevation, ascent route: “Pik Ukraina” 5030 m, Central counterfort of the Eastern wall.
5. Proposed difficulty category: 3B, combined.
6. Route characteristics: elevation difference: 1430 m, length of sections 2–3 cat. diff.: 600 m, 4 cat. diff.: 100 m, average steepness: 30°.
7. Number of pitons driven or anchor placements used: for belaying:
   • rock pitons — 7
   • ice screws — 23
   • bolted anchors — 3 for artificial support points.
8. Total time on the route: ascent to the initial bivouac at the foot of the summit — 12 hours, establishment of the initial bivouac at an elevation of 3600 m. Ascent from the initial bivouac to the summit — 8 hours. Total: 20 hours. Descent:
   • to the 3600 m overnight stop — 5 hours
   • to the base camp — 9 hours Total: 14 hours.
9. Number of overnight stops and their characteristics: 2 overnight stops, good.
10. Surname, first name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification: Kaifadzhyan Sergey Amatunovich, 1st sports category, Ukraine. Sharipov Anatoly Raimdzhanovich, Candidate for Master of Sports, Republic of Tajikistan. Kovalev Sergey Viktorovich, Master of Sports of International Class, instructor of the 3rd category, Ukraine.
11. Team coach:
12. Date of departure and return: August 15, 2004 – August 17, 2004.

Chairman of the FRS of Donetsk region

Kovalev S.V. June 6, 2005

Photo 1

Table №2

Ascent date: August 16, 2004.

Route diagram in UIAA symbols

August 15–16, 2004. 3600 m.

Description of the first ascent routes to the summit Pik Ukraina. Republic of Tajikistan. Pamir. North-Eastern spurs of the Peter I ridge.

From the settlement of Belkondo, 4–5 people cross the “Belkondo” pass into the “Sugran” gorge. Then from the “Sugran” meadow, through the “Irget” pass (3800 m), descend to the slopes of “Irget” towards the cliffs of the Muksu River. Then cross the “Khadyrsha” pass, descend and cross the Khadyrsha River via the moraine along the “Khadyrsha” glacier, pass to the “Khadyrsha” meadow in front of the “Kurayshapak” pass, which is located at an elevation of 3000 m near the “Khadyrsha” glacier opposite the “Kurayshapak” pass and the “Shafak” glacier.

“Pik Ukraina” (5030 m) in the form of a trapezoidal trident is located on the “Kurayshapak” ridge.

Location of summits and passes:

• To the west of “Pik Ukraina” (5030 m) lies the “Sasun” pass (4667 m), behind which rises “Pik Armenia” (5495 m).
• “Pik Armenia” is situated between the “Sasun” pass (4667 m) and the “Khadyrcha” pass (5259 m), behind which lies the “Shapak” summit (5667 m).
• To the east of “Pik Ukraina” towards the “Kurayshapak” pass lies “Pik Oleg Mkrtchyan” (4980 m).

Ascent route to “Pik Ukraina” (5030 m):

• Via the Central counterfort of the Eastern wall.
• The route is combined, category 3B.
• First ascent: August 16, 2004.
• Performed by: Kaifadzhyan S.A. (Ukraine), Sharipov A.R. (Tajikistan).

North-West Pamir

1:200 000, 2 kilometers per 1 centimeter Solid horizontals are drawn every 40 and 80 meters.

Center “Priroda”

STATE RESEARCH AND PRODUCTION CENTER “PRIRODA”

Climbing Department

ALL-UNION COUNCIL OF THE ALL-UNION VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY OF TRADE UNIONS

Pik Ukraina 5030 m

Via the Central counterfort of the Eastern wall, route category 3B, combined. Kaifadzhyan S.A. (Ukraine).

Establish the initial bivouac at an elevation of 3600 m near the “Shafak” glacier. Depart at 4:30 AM, traverse the moraine for 800 m, ascend 150 m up a snowy slope with an angle of 35–40° to reach the Central counterfort of the Eastern wall.

Continue moving along the Central counterfort of the Eastern wall:

• traverse a rocky ridge for 400 m.

Approaching the ice slope between the Central and Right counterforts:

• deviate slightly to the left for 10 m to reach a rocky wall;
• then ascend 15 m upwards at an angle of 50° (beware of rockfall, loose rocks).

Then:

• move up through live rocks and sharp ridges, along the rocks on the left side of the couloir for about 400 m to reach the Eastern ridge.

From here:

• move 10 m to the right;
• then ascend 20 m up rocky terrain, angle of ascent 50°;
• continue up rocky ridges for 50 m (beware of rockfall);
• move 10 m to the right again;
• ascend a rocky wall for 15 m, angle of ascent 60°, to reach a rocky ridge.

Then:

• continue up the rocky ridge of the Central counterfort for 150 m, angle of ascent 45°.

After that, continue moving:

• diagonally upwards for 100 m, transitioning along a rocky ridge at an angle of 40°;
• exit to the right onto the glacier between the Central and Right counterforts;
• ascend a steep ice wall (70°), from the left part of the wall, continue the route diagonally to the right for 100 m towards the summit;
• then move straight up for 70 m to the very summit, angle of ascent 50°.

To the right, there are ice drops and avalanche-prone snow cornices.

The summit at an elevation of 5030 m is reached via the left slope. The summit is a snow-ice pad, approximately 20 square meters in area. To the right, there is a rocky trident. On the summit, a metal disc was installed:

• with the inscription “Pik Ukraina” and the national coat of arms, dates of ascent, and names of the first ascenders;
• a cairn was built below, with a capsule containing a note about assigning the summit the name “Pik Ukraina”.

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List of photographs

Author and first ascender — Sergey Kaifadzhyan, 2005, Ukraine.