Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — V-3 Pamir, Rushan ridge
3. Ascent route — first ascent to Peak Korolev S.P. via the southern ridge 5525 m
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference — 700 m (1100 m from the bivouac)
   • average steepness — up to 45°
   • length of complex routes — 200 m
5. Pitons hammered:
   • rock — 10
   • ice
   • bolted
6. Number of travel hours — 13 h
7. Number of overnight stays — two nights on the moraine in tents
8. The ascent was made by a group of climbers from the expedition of the Sports Committee of the Taj. SSR.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification:
   • Zavarovsky Anatoly Sergeevich — 2nd sports category, leader
   • Sevostyanov Vladimir Sergeevich — 2nd sports category, participant
   • Kovalenko Viktor Dmitrievich — 2nd sports category, participant
   • Romanov Yuri Alekseevich — 2nd sports category, participant
10. Team coach — Segrii Sergey Nikolaevich, Master of Sports of the USSR
11. The ascent was made on July 29, 1975.

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ASCENT ROUTE DESCRIPTION

From the base camp, follow the trail through the summer pasture Udari to the overnight stay on the moraine of the Raumid glacier, which takes 4 h.

From the overnight stay, move along the right lateral moraine of the Raumid glacier to the glacier, and ascend through its middle part to the cirque — 2 h.

The glacier is covered, and crevasses are possible!

In the left (in the direction of travel) corner of the cirque is a rocky massif of Peak Korolev. A sharp rocky ridge descends to the Klunnikov Pass, located between Peak Korolev and Peak Klunnikov. To the right of the pass, a snow-ice slope of Peak Klunnikov descends into the cirque of the glacier, and a snowy eastern ridge of Peak Kosmonavtov closes the upper reaches of the Raumid glacier.

At the junction of the rocky massif of Peak Korolev and the snow-ice slope of Peak Klunnikov is a couloir. The left side of the couloir is rocky, and the right side is snow-ice with a hanging serac. The upper part of the couloir (exit to the pass) is bounded by a rocky ridge.

The ascent to the pass is made along the left side of the couloir along the edge of the rocks and snow. Further exit to the pass is along the rocky ridge (about 100 m) of moderate difficulty. Insurance is through outcrops and pitons. The rocks are heavily destroyed. The ascent to the pass from the cirque takes 1.5 h.

The southern ridge of Peak Korolev from the pass is a chain of gendarmes, overcome head-on or from the right in the direction of travel. The length is about 300 m. Insurance is with pitons, through outcrops. Movement is simultaneous and alternating. There are many loose rocks. Hammering in pitons is difficult due to the destruction of the rock. The time taken on this section is 1.5–2 h.

Further, move along a heavily destroyed ridge with walls 2–6 m high. The ascent is carried out with piton insurance. Time — 2 h.

The ridge leads to the summit tower on a sandy shelf. Traverse the summit wall with non-flowing ice to the right for 40 m. Insurance is with pitons. Then, move up easy rocks and a snowy slope for 40 m to the summit.

From the col, the ascent to the summit takes 4 h.

Descent from the summit along the SW ridge via rocks in a sports manner for about 100 m. Further down a steep couloir in the direction of the Raumid glacier to a rocky "finger". 30 m below the "finger", the couloir splits into two narrow ice streams with drops. In the right couloir, before the drop, traverse to the right along a shelf through a rocky ridge to the adjacent couloir, which is used for further descent to the Raumid glacier.

Descent down the couloir takes:

• 3–4 h — down the couloir;
• 1 h — along the glacier to the overnight stay on the moraine.

Descent from the summit is possible along the southern ridge via the ascent route. However, it is greatly hampered by the destruction of the rocks that make up the ridge.

The group named the summit after Korolev S.P.

In the group's opinion, the route difficulty is assessed as 3B category of difficulty.

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

ASCENT ROUTE — PEAK KOROLEV VIA THE SOUTHERN RIDGE.