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Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Ascent to the summit of Erydag (3925 m) via 6B category route on the left part of NW wall, climbed by a team from Yekaterinburg in 2004.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, 2.10
- Erydag 3925 m, via the left part of the NW wall, G. Shchedrin's route, 81
- 6A category of difficulty
- Route type: rock
- Route height difference: 960 m
Route length: 1280 m
Length of sections:
- 5th category of difficulty – 590 m
- 6th category of difficulty – 170 m
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Report on the first ascent of the route through the center of the left part of the NW wall of Erydag in 1981 with a detailed description of the tactics and passage of the route.
Tactical Actions of the Team
The team's tactical actions were based on:
- available information about the routes (reports, photos, etc.);
- ensuring safety;
- experience in wall climbing. The Leningrad team has been gathering information about the Erydag massif since 1980. Therefore, based on the available materials, observations of the wall during previous visits to the area, and experience climbing on this wall, a tactical plan for the ascent was developed (see sheet 6), which was fully executed during the ascent.
- On August 3, 1987, at 5:00, the team, after preliminary processing of the first two ropes the day before, started on the route. Tsaruk works first. The other participants move along the fixed ropes.
- In a day, 16 ropes were passed and one processed.
- Overnight stay — comfortable, lying down, in a grotto (point 8), as planned according to the tactical plan.
- On August 4, 1987, they started work at 7:00. Pasikhin works first.
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Ascent to the Yarbdag summit via the center of the left part of the northwestern wall, 6th cat. diff., 1,220 m, made by the team of Len City Sports Committee in 1985.
ASCENT RECORD
- Ascent category — rock climbing.
- Region — Caucasus, from the Pereval Krepostovyi to the Tfan summit.
- Ascent route — V. YARYDAG (1st Western, 4020 m) via the center of the left part of the northwest wall.
- First ascent, 6B (approximate).
- Route characteristics (wall section):
- total length — 1220 m
- length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 865 m (6th category — 470 m, 5th category — 435 m)
- average steepness — 78°
- height difference — 1070 m.
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Ascent to the summit Yrydag via the 1st western route up the center of the left part of the NW wall, 5B cat. of difficulty, 1120 m of height difference, 57 hours of climbing time.
I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. CAUCASUS, Yaridag massif, Mt Shchedrina 3. Mt Yaridag I-western, 4020 m, via the center of the left part of the NW wall. 4. Route category 6B (according to the classification table – 5B category) 5. Route characteristics: — height difference: 1120 m — length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 939 m — average steepness: 68° 6. Pitons hammered: — for belaying: 251
Route Description: левой части СЗ стены
Documentation of a Category 5B route ascent to the summit of ErnDag (3925 m) in the Eastern Caucasus by a team from the RSFSR State Committee for Sports in 1987.
Passport
I. Rock climbing category 2. Eastern Caucasus 3. Mt. Erydag, 3925 m via the left part of the NW wall 4. Category 5B complexity 5. Elevation gain 1050 m, length — 1270 m Length of sections R0–R6 cat. complexity — 870 m. Average steepness — 69°. 6. Pitons hammered in: rock 117/20, bolted 0/0, chocks 119/24 7. Team's walking hours: 31 and days — 3
Route Description: лев. части СЗ стены
Description of a new 6B category route through the left part of the northern wall of Yerydag peak in Dagestan, climbed by a team of mountaineers in February 2010.
Page 5. Ascent log details
- Region — Dagestan mountains, Chekhychai gorge.
- V. Erydag 3925 m via the left part of the NW wall.
- Difficulty category 6B, first ascent.
- Route type — rock.
- Wall section height difference 1000 m. Total length 1460 m,
- category 5 — 210 m,
- category 6 — 710 m.
- average steepness 69°.
- artificial aids difficulty: A-1 — 260 m, A-2 — 450 m.
Route Description: правой части СЗ стены
Description of a route of the 6th category of difficulty to the summit of Yarydag (4020 m) via the center of the northwestern wall in the Eastern Caucasus, climbed in 1982 by a group of climbers led by Vladimir Stadnik.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — Rock
- Ascent region — Eastern Caucasus
- Peak, its height, ascent route — Yarydag (I western), 4020, via the center of the NW wall.
- Proposed difficulty category — 6
- Route characteristics:
- Height difference — 1000 m
- Length of sections: III — 40 m, IV — 230 m, V — 455 m, VI — 405 m.
- Average steepness — 85°
- Pitons hammered:
Route Description: правой части СЗ стены
Climbing permit for the ascent to ErnDag summit via the NW wall, route category 6A.
Ascent Passport
- Category of wall ascents.
- 2.10. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhychai gorge.
- Erydag, 3925 m, point 31–32, Mikhailov's route, 1982, via the right part of the NW wall, rock.
- 6A category of difficulty, " беспрохождение".
- Route characteristics: height difference 880 m, wall length 960 m, average steepness 70°, total length of the wall section 1125 m, length of sections: 2 category of difficulty — 45 m, 3 category of difficulty — 120 m, 4 category of difficulty — 130 m, 5 category of difficulty — 770 m, 6 category of difficulty — 60 m, including 20 m with A3 climbing; artificial support points: A1 — 25 m, A2 — 15 m, total length with artificial support points: 60 m; on sections: 5 category of difficulty — 25 m, 6 category of difficulty — 35 m.
- Used: 122/29 chocks, 118/9 rock pitons, 10/3 bolt pitons. Of these, 4 previously hammered rock pitons were used and not removed, 2 own pitons were left on the route, 10 previously hammered bolt pitons were used.
Route Description: правой части СЗ стены
Ascent of Jarydag peak (4020 m) via the centre of the North-West wall, 6B difficulty category, Eastern Caucasus, 1982.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock.
- Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, North-Eastern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, Usukhchai gorge.
- Peak Yarydag (I-Western), 4020 m, via the center of the North-West wall.
- Proposed difficulty category — 6B.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 950 m. route length — 1120 m. length of sections 5–6 difficulty category — 960 m. average steepness of the route (3070–4020) — 81–82°.
Route Description: С стене В гребня
Description of a challenging combined route (category 6B difficulty) ascent to the Western Shkhara summit with a traverse to Eastern Djanga on Central Caucasus by a group of mountaineers.
Ascent Log
Region: Central Caucasus, Bezingi region, No. in table 2.5 Peak name: West Shkhara Route name: via N wall of E ridge (Razumov's route) with traverse to East Janggi Difficulty category: 6B Route characteristics: combined Route elevation gain: 1457 m Wall section length: 1730 m Total route length: 4800 m Length of sections with 5th cat. diff.: 285 m, 6th cat. diff.: 480 m