Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay ridge, Kychyk-Apai area
3. Peak: Chelyabinsk Worker peak (first ascent). Height 4400 m. Ascent route: from the north along the ice slope.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m from the assault bivouac, length of sections 5–6 km, average steepness 35°.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying — _, for creating ITO — _ Rock — _, ice — _, bolt — _
7. Number of travel hours: 4 h 14 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics:

18. Chelyabinski Rabochiy - Dzholdzhilga Pass via the Northeast ridge. The route is combined, category 2B (fig. 5, 6, 29, 30). Length - 1000 m, 11 300 m, time 3.5-4 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alp camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Dzholdzhilga glacier - see route 14. From the initial bivouac, move along the moraine, then along the Dzholdzhilga glacier to the right side of the broad saddle of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. From the glacier, ascend a gentle ice-and-snow 120-150-meter slope to the right side of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. On the pass, turn right and along the ice-and-snow ridge of the saddle, approach the 1st gendarme of the Northeast ridge of Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. Along simple rocks of the gentle Northeast ridge with a short rusty wall (belay) 100 m up to the 1st gendarme. Then, along the long, gentle, easy 300-350-meter Northeast ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right, approach the 2nd Big gendarme. Along simple rocks with a 40-45° ascent (pitons belay) 100-120 m up to the 2nd gendarme. From the gendarme, descend to the ice-and-snow saddle along easy, destroyed rocks of the Northeast ridge. Then, along the right side of the wide, gentle ice-and-snow (cornices) Northeast ridge, approach the Pyramid gendarme. Traverse the Pyramid gendarme 40-50 meters to the right along the ice-and-snow slope or easy, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks (belay). Then, 350-450 m along the right side of the ice-and-snow Northeast ridge and the easy, destroyed, partially snow-covered 60-80-meter rocky Northeast ridge, ascend to the Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. From the Dzholdzhilga Pass - 3-3.5 hours.

Shankol via the northern spurs of the North-Eastern Ridge

The route is combined, category 3A (fig. 5–7). Length — 1200 m, H — 500 m, time — 5–6 hours. From the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2–8 people):

• Down the gorge along the highway to the Telman farm.
• From it, turn right to the east to the Shankol village.
• From it, turn right to the south and 20 km up the Shankol gorge road to the pastures and the end of the road. From the alpine camp by car – 1–1.5 hours. Further:
• Along the pack trail along the Shankol River with two long ascents to approach the lake in the upper reaches of the gorge.
• Near the lake, not far from the northwestern slopes of Shankol peak — the initial bivouac. From the end of the road – 3–4 hours. From the initial bivouac:

99. Dinamo via the East Ridge. The route is rocky, category III (fig. 5, 87, 9.5, 97, 101, 102). Length 1000 m, II 550 m, time 4 hours 10 minutes. The approach path from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group size not limited) to the initial bivouac at the terminal moraine of the upper Beketty gorge is described in route 1. From the initial bivouac, approach the left side of the broad base of the East ridge of Dinamo peak. From the moraine, a 15-meter ascent up difficult simple rocks on the northeast slope of the North ridge. Then, 140–150 m up and to the right along a simple slope with easy scree shelves to a couloir, and up it 40–50 meters to the East ridge. Then, traverse 800–1000 meters along scree and easy broken rocks under the rocky walls of the left slope of the long East ridge, with numerous sharp gendarmes, to approach the summit rise. Up easy broken rocks, scree alternating with short simple walls ("live" rocks, protection) on the left side of the rise, ascend to the summit ridge and along it to the summit of Dinamo. From the initial bivouac, 3–4 hours.

I. Climbing category: ROCK. 2. Climbing region: Ki­chik-A­lay ridge (Pa­mi­ro-A­lay). 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 60 years of UAS­SR; 4150 m, via the eastern ridge. 4. Expected cat. difficulty: 3B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m; length of sections with 3–5 cat. difficulty — 140 m; average steepness — 45–50°. 6. Number of pitons: rock pitons for belay — 21 pcs. 7. Number of walking hours: 12 h.

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical class
2. Pamir-Alay, Archabashi gorge
3. Tamdykul peak, 5539 m, via the left part of the NW wall
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Route elevation gain — 1490 m, wall elevation gain — 1180 m. Route length — 2180 m, wall length — 1580 m. Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1270 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 71° (4150–5330 m), of which 6B category of difficulty — 79° (4900–5330 m).
6. Number of pitons used: rock: 116, wedges: 98, channels: 10, chocks: 69, ice screws: 3.

Brief Description

Ascent route to p. "Носорог" (Rhinoceros Peak) via the northern ridge, category 2B From the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Hodja-Sang-Hok valley, on a grassy clearing under the slopes of p. 40 let Komsomola Tadzhikistana (40 Years of Komsomol of Tajikistan Peak) and per. Sang-Hok, first ascend via grassy and then snowy slopes to below per. Sang-Hok. Without reaching the pass, turn right and ascend the snowy slope leading to the ridge, then along the ridge to the right for 40–50 meters on easy rocks — exit onto a snowy plateau. From the plateau, via simple rocks at 35–40°, reach the ridge visible from the base camp as a "fence". Move along the ridge towards the summit. Bypass obstacle rocks and cornices on the left. After descending into a small depression, bypass a rock pinnacle on the right by descending on snow to a snowy shoulder. Having bypassed the pinnacle, ascend to the ridge via an inner corner for 40 meters at 45°. Then, for 60 meters, move along the inner corner of the ridge to the "Rog" pinnacle. From the "Rog" pinnacle, descend into a small depression and ascend to the summit via a snowy slope, bypassing the ridge on the left on snow. The descent from the summit is to the south along the ridge, then via simple rocks for 40–50 meters into a wide snowy couloir, which leads to a snowy plateau. An alternative descent is possible via the ascent route. The entire route is visible from the base camp and is logical. Recommended for camping and sports groups. A. Koshkin + 3 people, July 5, 1983, 300 m, 40°, 6 rock rings, 1 artificial aid, 8.5 hours.

Table of Main Characteristics of the Route

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE to p. "Носорог" (Rhinoceros Peak) via the northern ridge, category 2B

Треугольный (4100) via W rib - 4A cat. 350, 45–50°, 30 m, 1, 20 pitches, 6 hours. Yu. Emelyanenko, T. Medvedeva 28/VII-83. Average steepness of sections R2–R10: 50–55°. Average steepness of sections R10–R20: 45°.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route to peak 4100 m (conditionally named peak Треугольный) via Western rib 4A cat.

• Summit elevation: 4100 m
• Conditional name: peak Треугольный
• Difficulty category: 4A

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Hissar Range
3. Peak, elevation, ascent route — XXX years of "Varzob" 4367 m, via the center of the western bastion.
4. Difficulty category — 5A (estimated)
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 75°. Route length — 1000 m.
6. Pitons placed:

7.2.172 Oktyabrenok

Center of the NE wall (Samara variant), 4B

K. Belotserkovsky, 2013 Description of the ascent, and why the variant is called "Samara" "North-Eastern wall of Oktyabrenok, Samara variant". A more direct variant of the previous route.

• A long 4B with a good level of climbing.
• On the fifth rope, large camalots (#4–5) may come in handy, or you will just have to endure a bit (I endured).
• The sixth rope, as described, can become famous due to its start.
• Difficult climbing on a slightly overhanging wall.
• Further, exit to a shelf via corners, where the routes converge.