Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey district
3. Peak, height, ascent route: Chančachi, 4450 m, left bastion of the NE wall (first ascent)
4. Proposed difficulty category: 6B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1000 m, route length — 1100 m, average steepness — 65°, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 700 m
6. Number of pitons driven: for belay for aid rock 102 21 ice 6 -

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Chan Chakhi-Khokh (4453 m) via the route: North wall - right "bastion", from August 18 to 26, 1965. By the team of Kharkov regional council of the sports society "Avangard" led by NEBORAK V.S. Mt. CHAN CHAKHI-KHOKH 4453 m.

Team Composition

Leader: NEBORAK VALENTIN STEPANOVICH, born in 1930, Ukrainian, member of the CPSU, 1st sports category in mountaineering, architect.

Participants:

GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA YURIY IVANOVICH, born in 1935, Ukrainian, non-partisan, 1st sports category in mountaineering, electrical engineer.

Ascent Log

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Tsey district
3. Chanchakhi (4450 m) via the Left Bastion of the North Face
4. Difficulty category — 5B, combined, second ascent
5. Height difference — 840 m length of sections with 5B difficulty category — 447 m, including 6th category — 30 m, average steepness 65°, with main sections at 85°
6. Pitons driven

   	rock	bolted	chocks	ice

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Chanchaqi of 6B category complexity by the group from the Taganrog and Rostov DSO "TRUD" led by Ruzhevsky V.V. Taganrog, 1970

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the route

The summit of Chanchaqi is located in the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus between the Tsey-Tbilisi pass and the summit of Mamison-Khokh. The height of the summit is 4420 meters above sea level. Among the classified routes to the summit of Chanchaqi, the simplest path is from the Tsey-Tbilisi pass, category 4B complexity. The most interesting from an alpinist's point of view is the north face. Here, there are routes of 5B and 6B category complexity. The 6B category complexity route was first ascended in 1968 by a group led by Popov, which received silver medals at the 1968 USSR championship for this ascent. In the 1970 season, this route was ascended by a group from the "Alibek" alpine camp, also participating in the USSR championship, and by a group from the Rostov Regional Council of DSO "TRUD".

Ascent conditions

In the second half of August, the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus is characterized by unstable weather. Typically, the first half of the day is sunny, which then changes abruptly, and by the second half of the day, precipitation often occurs. A peculiarity of Chanchaqi's microclimate is the constant wind, likely caused by the movement of warm air masses from the low-lying areas of Georgia to the higher and colder areas of North Ossetia. All the above is reflected in the relief of this mountain. Sharp temperature changes, wind erosion, and frequent precipitation result in formed ice, steep ice slopes, and islands on the wall, destroyed rocks, and its main hazard - a multitude of "live" stones.

Report on the Ascent by the "Alibek" Team of CS SDSO "Burevestnik" to Chan chakhi–Khokh via the North Face along the Central Bastion (Popov's Route), Category 6B, at the USSR Alpine Championship

I. Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of Chan chakhi–Khokh

The peak Chan chakhi–Khokh, chosen by the "Alibek" team for participation in the USSR Alpine Championship, is located in the well-known alpinist area of the Eastern Caucasus — Tsey. The peak is situated near the extremity of the Main Caucasian Ridge. Its height is 4642 meters above sea level. From a sporting perspective, its north face is of interest, with several routes plotted, not below category 5B. In 1968, a group of climbers from Kiev led by Popov ascended via the Central Bastion on the north face of Chan chakhi–Khokh, a route classified as Category 6B. Besides the first ascensionists, this route was followed only by a group led by Kinskiy from al "Elbrus" in 1969.

2. Characteristics of the Climbing Conditions

The height difference of the route is approximately 1000 m, with an average steepness of 70–80°. The entire route is divided into four parts — four bastions — by short ice sections. Camping in tents is only possible on steep snowy ridges separating the bastions. The solidity of the rocks decreases from the base to the summit; the upper part of the wall is heavily destroyed, and therefore the wall is characterized by frequent rockfalls, the intensity of which decreases only by the end of July — beginning of August. The Central Bastion, compared to other sections of the wall, is less "exposed" to rockfalls. The north face of Chan chakhi–Khokh is lit by the sun only in the morning, and the edge of the 4th bastion, projecting northwest, is almost never lit.

Report

on the first ascent route on the summit Chančahi 4461 m via the center of the North wall (proposed 6A category) by the team of Sumy regional FaiS from February 3 to 11, 2014. Team captain: Roško V. I. Team coach: Mitühin F. P.

Sumy — 2014

Addresses:

Coach Mitühin Fedor Petrovich 40004, Sumy, Metallurgov str., 14/67 ph. home +38 (050) 634-34-34 ph. work 8 (0542) 61-99-64 Leader Roško Vladimir Ivanovich

Chernyshev Peak

Peak Arkady Chernyshev (3900 m), named in memory of the coach of the BMSTU climbers, is located in the Main Ridge, in the southeastern corner of the Western branch of the Karaugom Plateau, rising above it by 150–200 m. To the north of the peak, the Eastern summit of the Bokos massif towers, and to the west, there is a low trapezoid of Uvarov Peak. Chernyshev Peak was conquered by:

• V. Miklashevsky,
• I. Erokhin,
• L. Kalishevsky,
• K. Limarev,
• A. Chernobrovkin,
• V. Feodosiev, and others on August 8, 1946.

Shulgin Peak

The low rock tower of Shulgin Peak (3648 m) is located in the Kalper Range between Vil'sa Peak in the south and (beyond the Kalper pass) the Kalper Peak in the northeast. There is only one combined route to the peak — from the Kalper pass. 214. Shulgin Peak via the Northeast ridge (combined route, category 2A, fig. 41, 42). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–20 people) to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Kalper pass is described in route 211. On the Kalper pass, turn right (when ascending from the Tsey valley) and ascend traversing along the right or left side of the Northeast ridge of Shulgin Peak. Then, via a short snowy rock

Report

on the first ascent to the peak of Alexey Botyan via the Northern ridge, category 3A, by the team from the Cascade mountaineering club, from July 26 to 29, 2022.

I. Ascent Details

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow ascent class
2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge
3. Ulu-Tau East peak, 4058 m via the right edge of the N face (Monucharov route)
4. Complexity category 5B
5. Elevation gain 700 m, length 950 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 50 m. Average slope of the route 50°
6. Pitons used: rock: 23/0, drilled: 0/0, chocks: 45/3, ice screws: 55/0
7. Climbing time — 12 hours, descent — 9 hours