Shulgin Peak
The low rock tower of Shulgin Peak (3648 m) is located in the Kalper Range between Vil'sa Peak in the south and (beyond the Kalper pass) the Kalper Peak in the northeast. There is only one combined route to the peak — from the Kalper pass.
- Shulgin Peak via the Northeast ridge (combined route, category 2A, fig. 41, 42).
The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–20 people) to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Kalper pass is described in route 211.
On the Kalper pass, turn right (when ascending from the Tsey valley) and ascend traversing along the right or left side of the Northeast ridge of Shulgin Peak. Then, via a short snowy rock couloir, ascend to the right under the rock ascent of the summit tower of the peak.
From the couloir, straight up a 15–18 m wall with numerous good holds and ledges for belay organization — to a ledge.
Along a narrow inclined ledge left-upwards («loose» rocks — belay).
From the end of the ledge, along a vaguely expressed inner corner to the right — upwards, emerging onto the pre-summit slope.
Along the slope, and further along a narrow simple short rock ridge — ascent to Shulgin Peak.
From the Kalper pass 2–3 hours.
Descent via the ascent route.
Naumov A. F. Karabugaz, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., «Fizkultura i sport», 1976.
Shulgin Peak