Report on the Ascent by the "Alibek" Team of CS SDSO "Burevestnik" to Chan chakhi–Khokh via the North Face along the Central Bastion (Popov's Route), Category 6B, at the USSR Alpine Championship

I. Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of Chan chakhi–Khokh

The peak Chan chakhi–Khokh, chosen by the "Alibek" team for participation in the USSR Alpine Championship, is located in the well-known alpinist area of the Eastern Caucasus — Tsey. The peak is situated near the extremity of the Main Caucasian Ridge. Its height is 4642 meters above sea level.

From a sporting perspective, its north face is of interest, with several routes plotted, not below category 5B.

In 1968, a group of climbers from Kiev led by Popov ascended via the Central Bastion on the north face of Chan chakhi–Khokh, a route classified as Category 6B.

Besides the first ascensionists, this route was followed only by a group led by Kinskiy from al "Elbrus" in 1969.

2. Characteristics of the Climbing Conditions

The height difference of the route is approximately 1000 m, with an average steepness of 70–80°. The entire route is divided into four parts — four bastions — by short ice sections. Camping in tents is only possible on steep snowy ridges separating the bastions. The solidity of the rocks decreases from the base to the summit; the upper part of the wall is heavily destroyed, and therefore the wall is characterized by frequent rockfalls, the intensity of which decreases only by the end of July — beginning of August. The Central Bastion, compared to other sections of the wall, is less "exposed" to rockfalls.

The north face of Chan chakhi–Khokh is lit by the sun only in the morning, and the edge of the 4th bastion, projecting northwest, is almost never lit.

The weather in the Tsey region during the summer months is characterized by an abundance of rainy and stormy days.

Chan chakhi–Khokh is located in a relatively well-developed area, within the reach of the alpinist camps "Tsey" and "Torpedo". The approach to the peak from the camps takes 6–8 hours.

3. Reconnaissance of the Route

Three out of four team members (R. Gorda, V. Rublev, and L. Shlesberg) worked as instructors at al "Tsey" in the 1968 and 1969 seasons and visually studied the route quite well. In 1968, R. Gorda and V. Rublev, as part of a sports group from al "Tsey", attempted the ascent but were forced to abort after completing the first bastion. Therefore, knowing the route, the team did not conduct reconnaissance in the current season.

4. Planned Plans and Their Implementation

During the preparation of the team for the ascent, the following plans were developed:

• Organizational plan;
• Tactical plan.

A. Plan for Preparation for the Ascent

1. Gathering materials about the route, preparing non-standard equipment and provisions before arriving in the mountains.
2. Training ascents in the Dombay region: a) to peaks of 2–3 categories; b) to peaks of 5 categories.
3. Preparation of equipment and provisions for the route.
4. Consultation on the route. Registration of route documentation at KSP.

The plan was fully executed. The ascent area was well known to the team. Working as leaders of trainee groups, team members completed ascents of 2–4 categories.

Ten days before departure, the main training phase began:

• ascents to peaks of 5 categories.

On July 24, R. Gorda, V. Rublev, and L. Shlesberg, as part of a sports group, completed an ascent of West Dombay via the northeast wall of category 5B.

On July 28, the same team members, as part of another group, ascended Main Amanauz from the north via a route of category 5A. The fourth team member, Yu. Kaunov, could not participate in these ascents due to work conditions at the alpinist camp.

The entire team went on a training ascent of East Dombay via the south wall, category 5B, on July 31, 1970.

After a cycle of training ascents and their analysis, the decision of the coach, captain, and all participants was:

• the team is ready for the ascent at the USSR Alpine Championship.

The declared team composition remained unchanged:

1. Shlesberg Leopold Semenovich, CMS — leader
2. Gorda Ruslan Aleksandrovich, MS
3. Rublev Vadim Sergeevich, CMS
4. Kaunov Yuri Vasil'evich, MS

The coach listed in the application, Pliukhin Yuri Vasil'evich, could not participate in the team's preparation due to health reasons. Therefore, the team's preparation was led by the Honored Coach of the USSR and Honored Master of Sports of the USSR, Evgeniy Beletskiy.

Non-standard equipment was prepared for the ascent:

• titanium hooks and channels;
• duralumin wedges;
• assault ladders;
• platform.

Provisions were taken at a rate of 2 rubles 50 kopecks per day for 10 days per person.

The documentation presented to the regional judge for the Eastern and Southern Caucasus and KSP Tsey region was flawless in terms of completeness and quality.

The team could not obtain consultations from participants of previous groups on the route, as no such participants were found in either the Dombay region or the Tsey region. It was only possible to consult on the situation on the route with a team from al "Tsey" that had completed a first ascent along the left side of the Central Bastion of Chan chakhi–Khokh at the end of July.

The situation was markedly different from previous years:

• a lot of snow;
• rime ice on the rocks.

B. Tactical Plan

The tactical plan provided for:

• 1st day. Approach from al "Torpedo" to the hut under the Khitsan pass.
• 2nd day. Approach under the route from the hut.
• 3rd day. Observation of the route. A pair processes the 1st bastion and descends to camp under the route.
• 4th day. The team passes the 1st bastion. A pair passes the 2nd bastion, descends to camp on the 1st bastion, leaving ropes.
• 5th day. The team passes the 2nd bastion. A pair passes the 3rd bastion, descends to camp, leaving ropes.
• 6th day. The team passes the 3rd bastion. A pair passes the 4th bastion, descends to camp on the 3rd bastion.
• 7th day. The team passes the 4th bastion, ascends to the summit via the ridge.
• 8th day. Descent to the southern plateau and through the Tsey–Tbilisi pass, return to al "Torpedo".

The team arrived at KSP Tsey region on August 5, 1970. On August 6, the Tsey region was closed for sports ascents due to prolonged bad weather. On August 8, the team conducted a supply drop to the hut under the Khitsan pass. On August 10, the region was opened for sports ascents, and the "Alibek" team was cleared for the ascent to Chan chakhi–Khokh via the north face along Popov's route, category 6B.

KSP Tsey region set a control deadline of August 25 at 14:00. Communication using "National" radios with al "Tsey". Communication sessions at 8:00, 13:00, and 19:00.

Actual Movement Schedule

August 10. Arrived under the route on the North–Tsey glacier plateau at 10:00. Observation of the Central Bastion showed an absence of rockfalls along it.

August 11. The Gorda—Rublev rope processed the 1st bastion. By 17:00, they reached the top of the bastion (sections R0–R8). Shlesberg and Kaunov observed the upper part of the route. No rockfalls were noted. Weather deteriorated in the second half of the day. A strong thunderstorm occurred at night.

August 12. Clear in the morning. Started on the route at 6:00. Ropes: Rublev—Gorda, Kaunov—Shlesberg. By 12:00, they passed the 1st bastion using fixed ropes. The upper part of the bastion was covered in snow, making it impossible to find the control tour. Having 7 hours of daylight and clear weather, they decided to pass the 2nd bastion. By 18:00, they reached the snowy-ice ridge at the top of the 2nd bastion. After chopping the ridge, they organized a semi-reclined overnight stay. Could not find the control tour; left their own.

August 13. Departure at 6:00. Variable cloudiness in the morning, deteriorating weather from 8:00 (wet snow, sleet). Ropes: Gorda—Shlesberg, Kaunov—Rublev. Completed sections R9–R21. Were 5 meters short of the upper part of the 3rd bastion's rocks when the weather sharply deteriorated at 16:00. Descended to a narrow ledge (section R16). Prepared a platform for a semi-reclined overnight stay and secured the tent with 3 piton hammers.

August 14. Departure at 6:00. Weather — overcast, occasional precipitation. By 13:00, reached the snowy ridge under the base of the 4th bastion, to the 3rd control tour. Retrieved a note from al "Tsey". The Gorda—Shlesberg rope began processing the 4th bastion, while Rublev and Kaunov cleared a platform for overnight stay. At 17:00, a thunderstorm began, and processing had to be halted at the edge (section R27).

August 15. Strong thunderstorm at night. The tent was covered in snow; had to be dug out several times. In the morning, the entire wall was snow-covered, and the ropes were covered in a thick layer of ice. Departure was postponed. By 13:00, the ropes had thawed. The Rublev—Kaunov rope continued processing the 4th bastion. Completed section (R27–R28). Descended to overnight stay at 18:00.

August 16. Departure at 6:00. Weather clear.

• The Gorda—Shlesberg rope passed the fixed ropes and pulled up the backpacks.
• The Rublev—Kaunov rope continued further, sections (R28–R30).
• Gorda ascended via the fixed ropes to join them, and the backpacks were pulled up to section R31.
• The Gorda—Rublev rope ascended to the ridge.
• Shlesberg and Kaunov pulled up the backpacks.

Stopped for overnight stay 20 meters below at 18:00.

August 17. Departure at 8:00. Weather clear, strong cold wind. Ascended to the summit via the ridge at 12:00. Began descent to the southern plateau at 13:00. Stopped for overnight stay on the plateau at 19:00.

August 18.

• Departure at 6:00.
• Reached the Tsey–Tbilisi pass at 8:00.
• Arrived at KSP at 18:00.

(Table)

5. Evaluation of Participants' Actions

All team members acted calmly and competently during the ascent. The team maintained a friendly atmosphere. Each participant made maximum effort to achieve the goal. In challenging meteorological conditions, the team's performance did not decline. No participant took unnecessary risks.

Each participant could work with any other team member, so the composition of the ropes changed according to the situation. Each rope took turns being the lead.

6. Observation Group

The observation group consisted of two alpinists from al "Alibek", S. Anisimov and V. Matveev, who were trainees.

The observers' tasks included:

• ensuring radio communication between the climbers and al "Tsey" in case of a lack of direct radio communication between the route and the alpinist camp;
• visual observation of the climbers in case of a communication breakdown.

Throughout the ascent, direct radio communication was maintained between the team and al "Tsey". Information about the team's progress on the route was relayed to KSP Tsey region and then through the regional radio station to al "Alibek". Observers monitored the radio exchange and duplicated messages when signals were weak in one of the directions.

The observers' location remained unchanged throughout the ascent — on the North–Tsey glacier plateau, under the start of the route.

7. Conclusion

The challenging snow-ice conditions on the route and weather conditions created additional difficulties on a technically complex route. Rocks on many sections, especially on the 4th bastion, were covered in rime ice. This made it impossible to move in rubber boots, which the team had planned to use for climbing. The rock relief of the route was such that there were no sections of easy or moderate difficulty until the ridge.

However, throughout the route, the team managed to find cracks for hammering in hooks for insurance, allowing them to complete the entire route with free climbing, without using pitons or platforms. In three places, on particularly solid rocks, assault ladders were used (one in each case).

For insurance, the team most widely used:

• thick (4–5 mm);
• petal (1 mm) hooks;
• and duralumin wedges (10–15 mm at the base).

The team worked with four main ropes, each 60 meters long.

Team members consider it necessary to thank:

• the head of the training department at al "Tsey", K. Sikyaev, and the head of the training department, E. Grekov, for providing the team with "National" radios and ensuring radio communication during the ascent;
• the acting head of KSP Tsey region, B. Ryazhskiy, and the senior instructor at KSP, I. Sarkisov, for the care and attention they provided to the "Alibek" team during their stay in the Tsey region.

Coach: Honored Coach of the USSR and Honored Master of Sports of the USSR, E. Beletskiy

Captain: Candidate for Master of Sports of the USSR, L. Shlesberg

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route

Ascent route — Chan chakhi–Khokh via the north face along the Central Bastion (Popov's route), category 6B.

Height difference — 900 m. Route steepness 75°–80°.

Chumok 1969