Ascent Passport

1. Route type: Combined.
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range.
3. Object of ascent: Peak 4870 m.
4. Category of difficulty: 4A — category of difficulty (approximate), first ascent.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 580 m,

General view of the route on the right R3–R4 section□ R7–R8 section R8–R9 section, top view R9–R10 section R11–R13 sections R13–R14 section

· The descent route from p. Uson along the rжаной ridge. Taken on July 18, 1990 from the perenka, altitude 3800 m, distance to the summit 600 m, 12:00, camera «Смена-7».

Gro­ma 25 cm. 2 mi­be­re:

• 800
• 1000
• 30
• 300
• 4000

10. 1000 res­se­mo­tseo, K. Akt­au­e 11, 12. 1125, 1125, 112. 112.85 r. Section R0–R1. Straight ridge 150 m. 40°. Section R1–R2. Ridge 300 m · 20°. Section R2–R3. 1st gendarme — key section. Two walls, through cracks and rocks 7–8 m., 80°. Total length of the section is 100 m., steepness 45°. 5 m. descent by

R0–R1 — ascent to the pass, snowy-ice slope, 400 m, steepness — 35–40°. R1–R2 — talus — 20–25°, 300 m. R2–R4 — snowy ridge, 400 m. R4–R5 — snowy slope up to 35°, crevasses, cornices.

Sports training camp of the Altai Republican Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing, dedicated to the 240th anniversary of the Altai Mountains joining Russia.

Report

On the first ascent to the peak Sodruzhestva (2908 m) via the Eastern ridge by a group of sports training camp of the Altai Republican Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing from Gorno-Altaysk. Leader and coach of the event: Kindikov E.V. Leader of the ascent: Kindikov E.V. — 1st sports category. Leader's address: 659700, Altai Republic, Gorno-Altaysk, Kommunistichesky Ave., 172, apt. 39, Eduard V. Kindikov.

Ascent Details

1. Ascent area: Altai, Kuragansky spur of the Katunsky ridge, Chechektu gorge.
2. Peak: Sodruzhestva (2908 m)
3. Route: via the Eastern ridge from the peak Achylgan.

V. Kzyl-Tash via Uchetel' Pass, cat. 3

From the lower building of Aktru weather station, ascend via a wide couloir, along its right side on an old trail in the direction of Uchetel' Pass. The ascent to the north-eastern ridge of Uchetel' Pass takes 1–1.5 hours. Move along the easy ridge in the direction of the summit for 30–40 minutes until the first difficult sections, before which it is necessary to rope up. Continue in rope teams, moving alternately or simultaneously with protection via rock outcrops. On the ridge, several gendarmes are encountered, which can be bypassed:

• to the right,
• on snow,
• on rock ledges. The north-eastern ridge ends with a 40-meter wall with an inside corner, which leads to the south-eastern summit ridge (2–2.5 hours). The inside corner, the key section of the route, is covered with ice. It is climbed with thorough piton protection. Further movement proceeds mainly along the left part of the south-eastern ridge. The last gendarme before the summit is bypassed to the right on snow. The ascent to the summit tower is on the right side of the tower (2–2.5 hours). Descent from the summit is via route 1B, cat. 3, to Konteyner Pass. Descent time is 3–3.5 hours.

Peak Stazhyorov from Znakchikov Pass, 2A cat. dif.

Approach

From the camp, move up towards the Big Akturu glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "sheepbacks" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Then move along the edge of the glacier. A glaciologists' camp is located on the moraine ridge, and beyond the ridge lies the Blue Lake. It takes 3–4.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the moraine lake, move up towards the Znakchikov Pass. The ascent initially goes along scree or a snowy slope (depending on the season). Time — 1.5–2 hours.

Route

Then ascend the steep snow-ice slope to the summit ridge. Movement:

• initially simultaneous,
• then on steep snow-ice sections — alternating with belay (up to 45°). In the upper part of the slope, it may be necessary to cross a crevasse. Then along the summit ridge reach the summit.

Mt. Ermolaeva S. (2163 m) – peak Ermolaeva (2153 m), 2A cat. diff.

From the base camp, immediately cross to the right side of the right tributary of the Ulun River and begin the ascent towards the obvious buttress of peak Sev. Ermolaeva. First, ascend the snowy slope for about 300 m in the direction of the first "bastion" on the buttress, which is 8 m high. It is overcome head-on. Then, along the sharp snowy ridge for 50 m, approach the base of the second 20 m "bastion". Pass it on the right side through the wall. Further, after traversing 70 m of a simple ridge, reach the third 5 m "bastion". Pass it on its right side via a clearly visible internal corner. Then, along a simple ridge, reach peak Sev. Ermolaeva. Movement along the buttress is logical and safe. Further, move along a heavily serrated ridge for 200 m towards the foot of a large "bastion". It is passed via slabs and a wall in the center – the key point of the route. Then, another 60 m of a heavily serrated ridge with gaps, which leads to a wide snowy ridge of the summit ascent of peak Ermolaeva. The total ascent time is 4–5 hours. Descent is via the S. ridge on route 1B cat. diff.

Route Safety Assessment

The route is ridge-based throughout. Snow cornices on the ridge to the left along the way pose a danger.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Equipment Usage and Route Passage Features

For groups of 6 people, it is necessary to have:

v. Klever (2119 m) – v. Fregat (2140 m) – v. Morion (2125 m), 3A cat. dif.

From the base camp, the ascent to v. Klever is done via route 1B cat. dif. along the Northern ridge. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours. From v. Klever to v. Fregat, there are three pronounced "gendarms". All are passed head-on. The route runs along a highly jagged, sharp ridge and is psychologically very difficult.

Ascent to the 1st "gendarme"

• Descend 60 m from v. Klever into the pass;
• Overcome two walls — 3 m and 5 m;
• Traverse 50 m and ascend to the 1st "gendarme".

Further

• Traverse 60 m along a ridge of similar character;
• Ascend to the 2nd "gendarme";
• Descend from it 15 m, approach the beginning of the most challenging part of the route.