Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Zamok, 5070 m, via the Eastern counterfort of the NNE wall, third ascent
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: route length: 1100 m, height difference: 900 m, average steepness 70°, length of sections: fifth category – 280 m, sixth category – 35 m
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating ITO: rock 106, ice 2, bolt 1 (used someone else's)
7. Number of climbing hours: 18 hours, climbing days – two
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

ASCENSION DOCUMENT

1. Class of ascension: technical
2. Area of ascension: Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: p. Zamok, 5070 m, via N.N.E. wall
4. Difficulty category: 5B rated, second ascent
5. Route characteristics: total altitude difference 1230 m, average steepness of the route 71°, including technical parts 78°, route length 1868 m and sections of cat. diff. (m): 1 — 130, 2 — 160, 3 — 120,

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent region — Fan Mountains
3. Ascent route — v. Zindon via the north wall, 4800 m
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1000 m average steepness 75°, complex section length 880 m
5. Pitons used: rock 207, including 24 wooden wedges ice 8, no bolt pitons
6. Total climbing hours 95.5
7. Number of nights and their characteristics — seven:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical. 2. Ascent area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Maria, 4970 m, via the north buttress of the western ridge, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 940 m; total height difference of the entire route — 1670 m; average steepness — 53°; height difference of the buttress itself — 1450 m; average steepness — 62°; height difference of the rocky part of the buttress — 850 m; average steepness — 70°. 6. Pitons driven: rock — 152, ice — 37.

Ascent Log

(third ascent) I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir, Fann Mountains 3. Maria peak via North counterfort of the 3rd ridge (4970 m) 4. Difficulty category — 5B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1670 m, length of 5–6 km/tr. sections — 795 m, average steepness — 65° 6. Pitons hammered: | | rock | ice | bolt | chocks |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical

2. Ascent area, ridge: 5.3. Zaravshan Ridge

3. Peak, its name, height, ascent route: p. Maria (4970 m)

Via the northern counterfort of the western ridge

4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B, second ascent

5. Route characteristics: height difference 1670 m

Length of sections 5–6 km (traverse 795 m) Average steepness: 65°

6. Pitons driven: for belay:

Ascent to Peak "Maria" - 4970 m, 5B-6B cat. diff.

For the 1970 CS DSO "Spartak" mountaineering championship via the right ridge. The Spartak Tashobl Soviet DSO mountaineering section's training camp took place from June 23 to July 22 in the northwestern part of the Fann Mountains. Ku likalon Valley, 1970. In 1969, a group of GDR mountaineers led by Karl Hentz climbed Peak Maria via the northern ridge and then traversed Peak Mirali, rating this traverse as a climb of the highest difficulty category. The Tashobl Soviet DSO "Spartak" team followed the Leningrad climbers on the N-NE wall. During pre-season preparations, the group couldn't find a description of the route and only received verbal consultations from eyewitnesses of the ascent. Thus, the ascent was not much different from a first ascent.

VIII. Organization and Tactical Plan of the Ascent

By July 2, the team completed a training and reconnaissance climb on Peaks "Svobodnoy Korei" (3B cat. diff.) and "Severny" (4A cat. diff.), both with predominantly rocky routes.

Mt. Maria, 5B, via North-Eastern Ridge (A. Vakhmenin's route, 78)

Ascent Passport

Ascent category — technical. Ascent area — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Range. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Maria, 4970 m, via north-eastern ridge, 5B category of complexity, 3rd ascent of the route. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 1460 m
• Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 1425 m
• Average steepness of the route — 60°
• Average steepness of the most complex sections — 80–90° Pitons driven: | Pitons driven | For belaying | ITO |

1.14

Ascent Passport

I. Technical category. 2. Zarafshan ridge, Fann Mountains (northern part). 3. Mirali peak, 5120 m, via the north face. 4. Proposed: category 6B, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain — 1540 m, length — 1800 m (3500–5040). Length of sections with category 5–6B difficulty — 700 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 74° (3500–5040). Average steepness of the main sections:

• 75° (3500–4340)

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains.
3. Summit Zamok via the center of the north face of Parandas shoulder, combined.
4. Complexity category — 6A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. sl. — 950 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the shoulder 80°.
6. Number of pitons: rock — 82/12 ice — 2/0 protection — 68/8 bolts — 0