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Route Description: центру В стены
Ascent record of Peak Engels (6510 m) via the East Face, 6th cat. diff., climbed in 1979 by a team guided by Yu. Popenko.
Ascent Log
- Ascent class — high-altitude.
- Ascent area — South-Western Pamir, Shahdara Range.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — peak Engels, 6510 m, via the center of the eastern wall.
- Difficulty category — 6.
- Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1400 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 830 m. Average steepness of the wall — 78°.
- Pitons driven: for belaying: rock 164, ice 5, bolt 26. Including for creating Intermediate Technical Objectives (ITO): rock 22, bolt 26.
Route Description: центру В стены
Report on the ascent of Peak Engels via the center of the eastern wall, category 6 difficulty, describing tactics, techniques, and safety measures.
Ascent Passport
- Class: HIGH-ALTITUDE
- Ridge: SHAKHDARINSKY
- Peak: Peak ENGELS (6510) via the CENTER OF THE EAST FACE
- Difficulty category: 6
- Height difference: 1340 m, distance 1885 m
- Sections of V difficulty category – 340 m
- Sections of VI difficulty category – 360 m
- Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |
Route Description: центру В стены
The 1984 ascent of the Len Gor Sport Committee team to Peak Engels via the east face, category 6B difficulty, with a detailed description of the route and tactics.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
of the ascent made at the Central Sports Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society alpine championship in 1984 Ascent category — high-altitude Ascent area — South-West Pamir, Kishy-Jerob gorge Ascent route — Peak Engels (6510 m) via the center of the eastern wall — 6B Characteristics of the ascent:
- height difference (wall) — 1000 m
- average steepness — 74°
- length of complex sections — 875 m (height difference 840 m, steepness 80°) Pitons used: rock — 168, ice — 9, bolt — 9 + 15*, chocks — 19
Route Description: центру В стены
Ascent record of Sergei Kolobaev's team via the East Face of Pik Engels (6510 m) in the Pamir Mountains in 1984, rated as Grade 6 difficulty.
PASSPORT
I. High-altitude class 2. South-West Pamir 3. Peak Engels 6510 m via the Center of the eastern wall 4. Difficulty category — 6 5. Elevation gain: 1410 m, wall length 900 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 530 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°. 6. Pitons hammered:
| rock | bolt | chocks | ice |
|---|---|---|---|
| 90/18 | 1/8 | 82/21 | 18 |
Route Description: колодцу Ю стены
### Description of the First Ascent of the South Face of Peak Engels (6,510m) in the Southwestern Pamir in 1986 by a team led by Vladimir Balybardin.
Passport
I. Altitude class 2. South-Western Pamir, Kish-ty-Dzhërob gorge 3. Peak Engels 6510 via the "well" on the South face. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference 1160 m, length - 2382 m. 6. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 732 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 75°, including 6B category of difficulty - 84°. 7. Pitons driven: Rock: 176, bolt: 59, chocks: 216, ice: 12.
Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col: route description, key points, and challenges on the ascent to the world's highest peak.
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Route Description: С стене
Ascent of the 6B category route on the northern wall of Pik Engels in the Pamir Mountains, achieved by the team consisting of O. Grigoryev, B. Diyarov, V. Bukreyev, and Kh. Balmagambetov in 1991.
Passport
- Class — high-altitude technical.
- South-West Pamir, Shabo valley.
- Peak Engels via the north wall (Gaas route, 1974). 2nd ascent in 1976. 3rd ascent.
- 6B category of difficulty, 2nd ascent.
- Height difference — 1950 m. (1560 m). Main part height difference — 1150 m (b.sh – ridge). Length — 2305 m. Length of 6A and 6B sections — 365 m. Average steepness:
Route Description: С стене
The ascent of Peak Engels (6510 m) via the north wall from the Piabon gorge in 1974 by a team of the Armed Forces.
Passport
of the ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974 I. ASCENT CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL 2. ASCENT REGION — south-western Pamir 3. ASCENT ROUTE — peak Engels (6510 m) via the north face from the Piabon valley 4. ASCENT CHARACTERISTICS — Route length — 2470 m, including:
- main wall (from the base of the black bastion to the top of the "tower") — 1435 m
- overhanging part of the wall (red and light quartz bastions) Height difference — (6510–4360 m)
Route Description: С стене
A guide to the ascent route to the summit of Konin (6357 m), a detailed guide for climbers with information on the technical level, terrain, and climbing features.
Konin Tyy Aar
Route Description: бастиону С стены
### Ascent Certificate for a Peak in the Central Ridge Section Category: 5B difficulty. Technically challenging ascent with an elevation gain of 1100 m.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class
- Ascent area — technical. Central part of the mountain range, between the peak to the Southwest and the saddle to the East.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Ularg, 4320 m, via the bastions of the North face.
- Expected difficulty category — 5B.
- Route characteristics: Height difference — 1100 m, length — 1212 m, average steepness — 68°. Length of sections: 2 — 70 m, 3 — 25 m, 4 — 460 m, 5 — 430 m, 6 — 227 m.
- Pitons hammered in: for belaying
- rock — 104