Passport

I. Altitude class

South-Western Pamir, Kish-ty-Dzhërob gorge
Peak Engels 6510 via the "well" on the South face.
Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
Height difference 1160 m, length - 2382 m.
Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 732 m.

Average steepness of the main part of the route - 75°, including 6B category of difficulty - 84°.

Pitons driven: Rock: 176, bolt: 59, chocks: 216, ice: 12. At the bivouac: 2 bolt, 142 chocks.
Team's total climbing hours: 61 h 30 min, 5 days.
Bivouacs: R1-R2-R4 - a platform carved on a snow-ice shelf, 8 people; R3 - a tent on a platform for 4 people, four - sitting on a shelf.
Team leader: Vladimir Sergeyevich Balyberdin, Master of Sports of International Class

Team members:

Yury Mikhailovich Razumov, Master of Sports
Nikolay Borisovich Shustrov, Candidate for Master of Sports
Alexey Borisovich Shustrov, Candidate for Master of Sports
Yevgeny Yevgenyevich Mayorov, Candidate for Master of Sports
Georgy Grigoryevich Kotov, Candidate for Master of Sports
Yury Yevgenyevich Pozhidaev, Candidate for Master of Sports
Vladimir Dmitriyevich Petrikov, Candidate for Master of Sports

Coach: Konstantin Borisovich Kletsko, Honored Coach of the RSFSR

Departure to the route: August 15, 1986. Reached the summit: August 19. Return: August 20.

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Departure from base camp on August 14 at 14:00. Overnight under the route at an altitude of 5200 m.

Tactical actions of the team

August 15, 1986
- Departure from bivouac at 7:30, on the route at 8:30.
- The first rope team reached the planned bivouac at 12:00 and started processing the rocky part of the route at 13:00.
- Mayorov worked first, Balyberdin belayed.
- The rest of the participants prepared lunch and places for tents as they arrived.
- At 18:00, the first rope team descended to the bivouac, N. Shustrov and G. Kotov went to process the route and descended by 21:30.
- In total, about 80 m of 6th category of difficulty rock was processed on the first day.
August 16, 1986
- At 8:30, the ascent via fixed ropes and further route-finding began with the rope team Mayorov - Balyberdin.
- The rest of the group started moving after an hour and a half.
- The group reached the planned bivouac at 18:00.
- The rope team Balyberdin - A. Shustrov worked on the route until 21:30 and fixed 40 m of ropes.
August 17, 1986
- At 7:00, the leading rope team N. Shustrov - A. Shustrov started moving via the fixed ropes.
- The rope team Balyberdin - Mayorov ascended afterwards to straighten the path and transfer equipment.
- The rest of the participants started moving at 12:00.
- At 18:00, the participants of the first rope team swapped places, and by 19:30, the first one reached the bivouac site in the middle of the quartz belt.
- By 20:30, the rest of the participants caught up.
- A tent-platform for 4 people was set up, the rest settled sitting on a shelf.
- On August 16 and 17, Yu. Razumov led the work at the end of the group.
August 18, 1986
- At 8:30, the rope team Kotov - Balyberdin started working on the route.
- By 18:00, 6 ropes were passed, after which Kotov was replaced as the leader by Mayorov.
- Three ropes later, the first one reached the planned bivouac on a snow cushion.
- By 21:30, the group gathered together and quickly prepared a site for two tents.
August 19, 1986
- At 9:00, the rope team Balyberdin - Razumov started working.
- At 12:00, when passing a snow-ice slope, Mayorov took the lead.
- By 15:00, the whole group ascended to the main ridge.
- At this time, the first participants prepared tea, and after a light lunch, the group moved up along the southern ridge at 16:00.
- The rope team Kotov - Balyberdin led the way.
- At 18:00, the participants reached the summit and started descending at 18:30.
- At 21:00, the group bivouacked on a plateau below the southern col of the massif, on a 5A category of difficulty route.
August 20, 1986
- At 9:00, the group continued descending along the Western ridge to the Zugvand glacier and further through the 5200 pass, reaching the base camp by 21:00.

Conclusion

The main idea of the tactical plan was:

Maximum utilization of daylight by changing two or three leading rope teams during the working day.
Having at least five strong lead climbers in the group allowed:
- Maintaining a high speed of route passage.
- Avoiding overloading any of the participants.

Route diagram in symbols

Sheet 85, part 1

K1	K2	Steepness (°)	Length (m)	Cat. diff.	Section №
2	1	30	20	3	39
3	3	80	5	5	28
2	3	90	15	6	27
2	2	70	15	5	26
3		30	10	3	25
5		80	25	6	24
8	1	70	45	5	23
	2	80	10	6	22
2	1	80	10	5	21
	2				20
2	25	CONTROL CAIRN	100	30	6
2/3			180	8	6
6	25		100	30	6
4/3	2/2		180	3	6
3/3	2/1		90	8	6
5	8	16.08		8	14
3	5	38,50 m		15	13
2/3	3/2		160	8	6
6	8		80	15	6
8	2		60	25	5
1	1		90	10	5
10	18
6	18		30	25	6
1				6
1	15				7
1	15		95	22	6
1	1		80	8	4
2/2	1/3		70	7	4
20	30		80	6	6
15	26
	3
5	3		90	30	6
		16.08
		38,50 m
ExaPn-		40	600	3	0
Hble		Steep.	Length	Cat.
		deg	m	diff.

Sheet 85, part 2

K1	K2			Steepness (°)	Length (m)	Cat. diff.	Section №
4	2			45	60	3	53
2	3			90	20	5	52
3	3			10			51
4	6			95	30	6	50

	2
					40	10	5
				90	5	6	47
10	13
				30	100	5	46
5	5
				70	40	5	45
7	3
				80	40	5	44
1	2			90	15	6	43
10
				60	40	4	42
4	1			60	25	5	41
1/1				90	5	5	40
3				30	15	4	39
				80	3	5	38
3	2			130	2	6	36
8	17
8	17			100	25	6	35
3				70	5	4	34
1				85	6	6	33
1
7
2	Climbing hours 13.5.	75	10	5	31
	Pitons 43 Chocks 67
	bolt 13 48
		Steep.	Length	Cat.
		deg	m	diff.