Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974

I. ASCENT CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL

2. ASCENT REGION — south-western Pamir
3. ASCENT ROUTE — peak Engels (6510 m) via the north face from the Piabon valley
4. ASCENT CHARACTERISTICS —

Route length — 2470 m, including:

• main wall (from the base of the black bastion to the top of the "tower") — 1435 m
• overhanging part of the wall (red and light quartz bastions)

Height difference — (6510–4360 m)

Average steepness of the route

• 76° main wall

• 83° overhanging part of the wall

  5. PITS DRIVEN —

Rock — 402 pcs.

Ice — 106 pcs.

Ladders used — 196

6. NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS — 147
7. NUMBER OF NIGHTS AND THEIR CHARACTERISTICS —

Total — 14, including:

• lying — 3
• semi-lying — 4
• sitting — 7

8. TEAM NAME — sports team of the Armed Forces.
9. FULL NAME of the captain, participants, and their sports qualification —

GAAS Artur Vasilyevich — CMS, — captain, NOSOV Anatoly Pavlovich — CMS, KISELEV Anatoly Mikhailovich — CMS, LOBANOV Sergey Dmitrievich — MS, SHIMELIS Vladislav Petrovich — CMS, NEKRASOV Viktor Pavlovich — CMSM, Honored Coach of the RSFSR, — coach I.O. ASCENT TIME — 1974 August 21 — September 4. PLACE OCCUPIED BY THE TEAM — Quecmo