6. Ascent of Surto Peak via the South Ridge The route is rocky, Category 1B difficulty (Fig. 5, 6, 13–15). The length is 2000 m (1000 m from the pass), height gain (H) is 500 m, and the time required is 2.5–3 hours. From the Kyrgyzata Alpine Camp (no group size limit):

• Cross the Kurgan River via the bridge.
• Move up the road on the left bank of the Kurgan River.
• Go around a green hill with an arch forest. In the center of the Kurgan valley, approach a temporary bridge made of a pair of logs from the left, and cross it to the right bank of the Kurgan River (there is a swamp near the river). Continue along the trail along the slope of the peak Mazar, on the right bank of the Kurgan River, and move up the moraines until the valley turns right. Then, move up and to the left along the moraines, cross the valley, and approach the scree slopes of the Surtoo Pass, a high saddle between the peaks of Surtoo to the left (north) and Kurgan to the right (south). The journey from the Alpine Camp takes 3.5–4 hours. Ascent:
• From the moraine, ascend 1000–1200 m up the medium and fine 30–35° scree to reach the Surtoo Pass, to the left of the central gendarme. It takes about 1 hour from the valley moraine.
• On the pass, turn left and follow the heavily broken easy, местами simple rocks, alternating with scree sections and short simple walls of the gently sloping 20–25° 700–800-meter South Ridge, to reach a wide scree saddle.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay ridge, Kychyk-Apai area
3. Peak: Chelyabinsk Worker peak (first ascent). Height 4400 m. Ascent route: from the north along the ice slope.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m from the assault bivouac, length of sections 5–6 km, average steepness 35°.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying — _, for creating ITO — _ Rock — _, ice — _, bolt — _
7. Number of travel hours: 4 h 14 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics:

Brief Description of the Route Approach

The path from the base camp at the confluence of the Kurgan and Suichikty rivers follows the road down to the lower bridge. After crossing the bridge over the Kyrgyz-Ata river, follow the trail leading into the Beketty gorge. Continue along the trail that runs along the bottom of the gorge until a steep ascent to the moraine. Then proceed along the moraine to a scree slope, orienting towards the "finger" gendarme. It takes 3.5 hours to walk from the base camp to the start of the route. 4150 m (60th anniversary of the UASSR) via the E ridge. Category 3B difficulty, 700 m, 45°, 21 pitches, 12 hours. 6/XI-80. R. Galeev, S. Bochenkov, S. Suntsov, V. Teletsyn. Map of the ascent area Table of main characteristics of the ascent route

LOCATION

Peak P.Lumumba is located in the northern spur of the Alay Range (South Tian Shan or Pamir-Alay) in the upper reaches of the Gavmen (Galyuan) River. Its height is 4405 m. The attached diagram clearly defines its location.

APPROACHES

From the town of Haydarkan, located in the western part of the Frunze district of Osh region within the basin of the Sokh River, a small but powerful vehicle (e.g., GAZ-69) can drive up the Gavian (Golyuan) River valley for about 14 km. Further:

• The road turns into a trail.
• We ascend along the trail on the right or left orographic bank of the Gavman River to the moraine, where we set up the base camp. Around the campsite, there is a juniper forest on the slopes.

ASCENT ROUTE

№ 539 and 34 dated 24.04.84 Order number

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, height, ascent route — Korona Sang-Hoka, 4250 m, from the west via the saddle.
4. Difficulty category — 3A (first ascenders suggested 4A)
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 700 m. Average steepness — 45°
6. Protection devices used:

№ 539 "32" dated 24.04.84 4Б cat. diff./n

Ascent Passport

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Hissar Range
3. Peak, height, ascent route — XXX лет «Варзобу», 4367 m, via the central ridge from the northeast.
4. Category of difficulty — 4Б (proposed)
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 250 m, Average steepness — 65°, Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 95 m

40. Bakhubi from the Bakhubi Pass, route 2A cat. diff., fig. 19. (Kuznetsov A., Egorkina I., Ershova N., Maikutova A., Popogrebsky A., Shukurov A. — 1953) The ascent to the summit is made from the Bakhubi Pass, located to the southwest of the summit. The pass can be reached from the north from the Maykhura valley via the Yak Archa gorge and the glacier, as well as from the south from the Siama gorge along grassy and scree slopes. In both cases, the approaches take about 8 hours. From the pass, bypass the ridge on the left along a snowy slope for about 200 m. Exit to the ridge along a rockfall-prone gully. Belaying is necessary. Further movement along the ridge is over heavily destroyed rocks. The rocks are easy or moderately difficult. BAKHUBI GLACIER BAKHUBI PASS Fig. 19. 40 Before the summit, overcome a gendarme. Bypass the second gendarme on the left along a ledge. Below the summit, there is a small snowpatch, below which one needs to traverse along the rocks and ascend to the summit.

5. Белая Пирамида from the south-eastern cirque, route 2А cat. diff., fig. 3.

(— 1954)

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the Восточный ледник Белой Пирамиды glacier, move onto the glacier and head towards the base of the snow "tie" descending from the large pre-summit plateau of Белая Пирамида. By the end of summer, ice is possible. Overcome the bergschrund in the lower section and ascend to the snow plateau via a couloir alongside the rocks. The steepness of the couloir increases to 45° in its upper part. After reaching the plateau, it's better to stay close to the rocks and talus protruding from under the snow on the right. Ascend to the eastern ridge using these, where easy rocks are encountered in the upper part before the summit. From the Eastern summit, traverse to the Western summit via a snow ridge. The ascent to the Western summit is via a steep snow slope. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. In case of poor snow conditions in the couloir, a descent from the Eastern summit to the south towards Стажёрский pass is possible. In this case:

• From the summit, descend left of the southern ridge onto the plateau.
• Then follow the ridge to the pass.
• Descend from the pass onto the Восточный ледник Белой Пирамиды glacier.

Rocky island east of the initial central one

Karakaursyn (4404 m) — Zhanatau (4242 m) — Leningradets (4015 m)

Traverse with ascent via the North wall of Karakaursyn peak, route 4A cat. difficulty (fig. 3, 3a, 3b). The named peaks are located in the Konstitutsia spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge. The spur separates the Dmitriev and Konstitutsia glaciers, located in the upper reaches of the Left Talgar valley. The approach to the route begins from the base camp on the moraine of the Toguзак glacier.

• Cross the moraine.
• Reach the saddle on the dividing ridge between the Konstitutsia and Toguзак glaciers.
• Cross the saddle and descend into the middle part of the Konstitutsia glacier.