1. Bakhubi from the Bakhubi Pass, route 2A cat. diff., fig. 19. (Kuznetsov A., Egorkina I., Ershova N., Maikutova A., Popogrebsky A., Shukurov A. — 1953)

The ascent to the summit is made from the Bakhubi Pass, located to the southwest of the summit. The pass can be reached from the north from the Maykhura valley via the Yak Archa gorge and the glacier, as well as from the south from the Siama gorge along grassy and scree slopes. In both cases, the approaches take about 8 hours.

From the pass, bypass the ridge on the left along a snowy slope for about 200 m. Exit to the ridge along a rockfall-prone gully. Belaying is necessary. Further movement along the ridge is over heavily destroyed rocks. The rocks are easy or moderately difficult.

BAKHUBI GLACIER BAKHUBI PASS img-0.jpeg

Fig. 19. 40 Before the summit, overcome a gendarme. Bypass the second gendarme on the left along a ledge. Below the summit, there is a small snowpatch, below which one needs to traverse along the rocks and ascend to the summit.

The descent from the summit is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6 hours.

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