Karakaursyn (4404 m) — Zhanatau (4242 m) — Leningradets (4015 m)

Traverse with ascent via the North wall of Karakaursyn peak, route 4A cat. difficulty (fig. 3, 3a, 3b).

The named peaks are located in the Konstitutsia spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge. The spur separates the Dmitriev and Konstitutsia glaciers, located in the upper reaches of the Left Talgar valley.

The approach to the route begins from the base camp on the moraine of the Toguзак glacier.

• Cross the moraine.
• Reach the saddle on the dividing ridge between the Konstitutsia and Toguзак glaciers.
• Cross the saddle and descend into the middle part of the Konstitutsia glacier.
• Crossing the glacier, approach the snowy slope of the North wall of Karakaursyn peak.
• Ascend the snowy slope towards the lower part of the first rocky section, between the right and left avalanche cones. Steepness 40–45°.
• Approaching a bergschrund, deviate to the right.
• Overcome the avalanche cone and take direction under the rocks.

The steepness increases; there may be ice exposures. Apart from snow, rocks are to be circumvented. Be cautious: rockfall is possible!

After a section of broken rocks:

• Exit onto more solid rocks
• Move along them towards the sheer wall at the base of the internal corner
• On a large slab — the first control point

Further:

• Upwards along the right side of the internal corner
• Piton belay
• Use a ladder
• There is a small cornice

Above the cornice, after a three-meter sheer section near the start of the cleft — a platform for one person. Here, backpacks can be pulled up.

Along the cleft, and then along sheer rocks, bearing right, exit to the right end of the first small snow-covered ledge.

Attention: rocks are fragile!

Along the ledge to the left until its middle and via the second sheer section — exit onto the second small snow-covered ledge under the overhanging upper part of the wall. The left end of the ledge leads to a multi-meter, partially overhanging