Report on the First Ascent in the 1973 USSR Alpine Championship

on the peak 5497 m via the northwest wall by the team of the Ukrainian Committee for Physical Culture and Sports From June 14 to June 23, 1973, under the leadership of Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I.

Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Object

Peak 5497 m is located in the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. The first researcher of this region was botanist B.A. Fedchenko, who visited in 1904, but his research was not published. In 1931, P. Luknitsky, a Pamir researcher and participant in the Tajik complex expeditions, visited the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. He made drawings and drew attention to the massif, which he called "Shatert" (Tent). The "Shatert" massif has two peaks on the left and three prongs on the right. Nearby, to the south, lies the peak Mayakovsky (photo). The area around peak Mayakovsky has been explored by alpinists, but the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river remained uncharted. Tourists from Kiev explored this region, made first ascents of several passes, and climbed peak Garms-Chashma (1B category). The peak is located along the ridge next to the "Shatert" massif. In 1971, the Ukrainian Council of Tourism organized a tourist expedition to the Garms-Chashma river region and invited alpinism instructors V.S. Shumikhin, V.S. Tkachenko, A.I. Vseljubsky, V.A. Bakhtigozin, and others. Concurrently, an alpinist expedition from Kharkov worked in the area. During this period, several first ascents of categories 1, 2, and 3 were made, and a detailed reconnaissance of the wall on the left part of the "Shatert" massif to peak 5497 m was conducted. Results of the reconnaissance:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Class: Technical
2. Ascent Region: South-West Pamir
3. Ascent Route: Peak 5080 m with ascent via the hanging glacier of the North-West Ice Wall.
4. Ascent Characteristics:
   • height difference — 1425 m
   • average steepness — 50°
   • length of complex sections — 200 m – 5A cat. diff.

1. Climbing category - technical.
2. Climbing area - South-West Pamir. 46 pc uf 4160518/5-76 pr Daybog
3. Ascent route - peak 5243 m via the South-West bastion of the Western wall, ascending to peak 5080 m through the VEZ pass from the Vez-Dara gorge.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference - 1345 m, average steepness - 67°, length of complex sections - 365 m.
5. Pitons driven: rock - 114 pcs, ice - 6 pcs.
6. Duration - 30 hours.
7. Number of nights on the route - 2 bivouacs in a tent.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir, Shahdarin Range
3. Summit — peak 5215 m («PARAKHT»), route via the southern 1100 m counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B
5. Ascent characteristics: height difference, average steepness 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 6 pcs.
7. Number of travel hours — 9 h 45 min
8. Team name — Sports group of the Kharkov Sports Committee expedition

PASSPORT

of the ascent made in the USSR Championship in mountaineering 1975

1. Ascent class — traverse.
2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir.
3. Ascent route — peak 5243 via the western wall, peaks 5085–4927–4670–4700–5158–5150, 4980, 4495–4960–5214 Akmu–5558 Shpil–5527 Tri Bashni.
4. Ascent characteristics height difference of peak 5243 m — 1100 m, average steepness 80°, length of complex wall sections 770 m, length of complex sections of the entire traverse 1490 m.
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 892, ice — 108, bolt — 2.
6. Number of climbing hours — 173.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical class
2. Central Pamir, Shahdara Range.
3. Peak 5432 via the counterfort of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1210 m, route length: 1510 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 325 m. Average steepness of the route: 54°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 96 (8), chocks 73 (6), ice screws 4
7. Team's total climbing hours: 26.5, and days – 3.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — first ascent. 2. Region — Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Range. 3. Height 5986 m (Bitkaya Western) via the mirrors of the Western wall. 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference — 906 m, route length (including traverses and detours) — 1025 m. Average steepness of the route — 79°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 925 m, including 6 category of difficulty — 765 m (35 m, 5235–5270 m), (730 m, 5285–5950 m). Steepness of the main part of the route — 86° (5235–5950 m). 6. Pitons driven:

International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004

Reports on First Ascents

in the Saroz Lake area, Pamir Mountains on the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges

International Mountaineering Club

Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/Fax (095) 725–45–28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru

Club President

Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee

Head Coach

International Mountaineering Club 2003–2004

Reports on First Ascentions

in the area of Lake Sarez in Pamir to the peaks of Rushan and Muzkol ranges

International Mountaineering Club

Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru

Club President

Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee

Head Coach

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich