Description of the route.

From the base camp, along the left, orographic, side of the Gumysh river, approach the glacier 22. Along the moraine of the glacier, approach the couloir in the right part of the northwest wall. The couloir descends from the ridge between the peak 4280 and an unnamed summit. The couloir is very narrow and prone to rockfall. The route begins with a chimney with a large plug. Climbing is moderate. The length of the chimney is 10 m. After the chimney:

• to the left along the talus shelves, approach the gray wall with a vertical slit. The rocks are monolithic. Passage of the wall:
• through the slit
• or from the left Good holds. Climbing is moderate. Then:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — combined 2. Ascent region — Pamiro-Alai, Tuamysh valley 3. Peak — Sar-Tash (4300) via the southern ridge from the west. 4. Estimated technical difficulty — 2A approximately (first ascent) 5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 400 m
• length of sections with 5th technical difficulty — none
• average steepness — 45°

6. Pitons driven (protection used):

Brief explanations for the table

Section R0–R1. In the lower part of the couloir, the main slope is covered with dense snow; in the upper part, it's a snow-covered ice slope. The snow holds well; insurance is provided through an ice axe. Section R1–R2. The first bastion is traversed along an icy, snow-covered ledge; insurance is provided through pitons; climbing is of medium difficulty. Sections R2–R3, R3–R4:

• Upwards to the right, a steep, icy slab with a gap in the middle
• Climbing is very difficult, relying on friction (there are very few holds)
• Insurance is provided through pitons; there are few cracks for piton placement Section R4–R5. A system of main snow-covered and icy ledges and "ram's foreheads." Movement is straight up towards the base of a destroyed counterfort (start of the second bastion). Section R5–R6. Up the right part of the counterfort directly under the yellow wall of the second bastion, along steep, destroyed rocks and a cleft. Climbing is difficult; in the middle part of the counterfort, on a small platform, is the I control point. Section R6–R7. Monolithic sections of the wall are interspersed with "tiled" rock formations. The section is traversed:

Difficult, belay on pitons. Sections IО — II, II — I2. Along the left part of the ruined wall straight up under the iced crack with a plug, on the right remains a rocky cornice. The crack is passed using ladders, climbing is very difficult due to non-solid ice. Sections I2 — I3, I3 — I4. Further to the right along the shelf under the wide crack and left-upwards along the crack to the base of a small grey wall. Climbing is difficult, "live rocks!", belay is only on pitons. Sections R4–R5, R5–R6. The grey wall is climbed straight up, further to the right upwards

5B 4/m. No. 519 p.2. October 26, 1982. KSP-55 sk. November 29, 1982. 166 CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE SPORTS SOCIETY «SPARTAK» ON ALPINISM IN 1982.

Dzhirty

Peak Bratyev Kadomtsyevyx — 4691 m. Via the center of the western wall, first ascent. Team of the Kyrgyz Republican Council of the Sports Society «Spartak». Team leader — Onin A.A. Team coach — Biryukov V.N. 1982. Kyrgyz Republican Council of the Sports Society «Spartak». Address: 720033, Frunze, Togolok Moldo str., 17. Tel.: 26–68–41. Team leader — Onin Alexander Alexandrovich, same address and phone number. Team coach — Biryukov Vladimir Nikolaevich, 720064, Frunze, 3rd microdistrict, bld. 17, apt. 29. Tel. 41–19–85.

Climbing Route Descriptions

I. Peak "Sтроитель Токтогульской ГЭС" (Builder of Toktogul HPP) Kurgan

The first ascent was made by a group consisting of Koporushkin V.G. (leader), Inozemtsev Yu.P., Kuzmichenok V.A., Tonka A.R. (all - 2nd sports category) in the period November 2-4, 1972. The route diagram is shown in Fig. 2. The mountain spur, in which the peak is located, stretches along the right bank of the Kurgan River in a north-northwest - south-southeast direction. The overall view of the route is shown in Fig. 3 (from the side of Tyuya Tash peak) and Fig. 4 (from the side of Sur-Too peak). Approach. From the bivouac, after crossing to the left bank of a nameless stream, we descend to the south. After 10-15 minutes of walking, we cross a stream flowing from under Dzhelan-Konybashi peak. Further, the trail goes along the right bank of the right-bank tributary of the Kurgan River (the stream originates under the Kumbel pass). After 1.5 hours of walking from the base camp, the trail crosses to the left bank of the tributary and goes along the snow-covered moraine in the direction of the southeastern ridge of Sur-Too peak (2 hours). Route. Further movement along the ridge in the direction of the saddle between Sur-Too peak and Peak "Builder of Toktogul HPP" - initially under the cliffs, and then along the cliffs of the western slopes of the ridge. There is a convenient place for an overnight stay on the saddle. The travel time from the base camp to the saddle is 6 hours. From the saddle, move along the crest to the I gendarme, which is bypassed on the left in the direction of travel. Further, we bypass the lower part of the II gendarme on the left. Then, along a snowy couloir, and in the upper part - along the cliffs with piton protection (1 piton) - we reach the crest under the III gendarme.

I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge, Joldjilga valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak Osh, 4180 m, via the center of the West wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 490 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 280 m, average steepness — 73°
6. Number of pitons installed: for belaying:

• rock pitons — 60
• bolt pitons — 0

φ5 Section R2–R3 Photo 6. Section R2–R3 Photo 7. Belay station at the start of R4–R5. A belay anchor will be placed here. Photo 8. At the arch. Photo 10. Key 2. Overhanging ruined chimney. Photo 12. Start of section R9–R10

Description of the Climbing Route through the Center of the Western Peak

① Numbering of the sections on the Varzob Saw wall (first ascent)

Control Cairns

to the Western peak, category 4A The approach to the start of the route is similar to the approach to the category 4B traverse route, ascending the ridge along the same wall. Overnight stay on the saddle below the wall.

SECTION I.

Through the largest right couloir with scree, exiting onto the saddle, we reach its upper end, bounded by sheer walls. To the left, a small waterfall flows in spring and early summer. Simultaneous movement, the route length is approximately 100 m. At the end, the group ropes up.

SECTION 2.

The start of the route is along the left (in the direction of travel) counterfort of the waterfall. The lower part with a negative slope is traversed with the help of a team member standing on their shoulders.

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Peak Shkhara Gl., 5068 m, via the N wall of the 3rd ridge (“the bottle”), first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6.
5. Height difference — 1500 m.
   • wall — 1450 m
   • length — 3880 m
   • including wall length — 3130 m
     • of which 5–6 cat. diff. — 920 m