Description of the route.
From the base camp, along the left, orographic, side of the Gumysh river, approach the glacier 22. Along the moraine of the glacier, approach the couloir in the right part of the northwest wall. The couloir descends from the ridge between the peak 4280 and an unnamed summit. The couloir is very narrow and prone to rockfall.
The route begins with a chimney with a large plug. Climbing is moderate. The length of the chimney is 10 m.
After the chimney:
- to the left along the talus shelves, approach the gray wall with a vertical slit.
The rocks are monolithic. Passage of the wall:
- through the slit
- or from the left
Good holds. Climbing is moderate.
Then:
- an inclined talus shelf
- the first control point (1 CP) is located on it
After 1 CP:
- to the left upwards along an inclined slab, местами the slab is covered with ice
The slab does not have pronounced holds, insurance is piton. Approach the red wall.
Along it, to the right, through a narrow chimney (length 20 m) — exit to a wide inclined shelf. Along the shelf, approach the next wall.
Passage of the wall through the slit. Climbing is difficult, limited number of holds, steepness is 80%.
Then:
- to the left upwards along a gray slab
- under the red tooth
The tooth is passed from the left through an inclined slit with an exit to an inclined slab. Along the slab, along the wall, approach a narrow couloir.
Cross it. Overcome a series of 5–9-meter sheer walls, climbing is moderate, direction — to a red overhanging rock.
Then:
- cross the couloir along the "ram's foreheads"
- move to the next very narrow couloir
The couloir is filled with ice. Move along the right side of the couloir — a rocky outcrop.
At the rocky outcrop:
- cross the couloir
- to the left upwards: first along inclined slabs, then along a small talus — ascend to the pre-summit ridge
Along the ridge to the right — exit to the summit. The summit is a ruined tower.
Descent from the summit — along the talus to the west.