5B 4/m. No. 519 p.2. October 26, 1982. KSP-55 sk. November 29, 1982. 166
CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE SPORTS SOCIETY «SPARTAK» ON ALPINISM IN 1982.
Dzhirty
Peak Bratyev Kadomtsyevyx — 4691 m. Via the center of the western wall, first ascent. Team of the Kyrgyz Republican Council of the Sports Society «Spartak». Team leader — Onin A.A. Team coach — Biryukov V.N.
- Kyrgyz Republican Council of the Sports Society «Spartak». Address: 720033, Frunze, Togolok Moldo str., 17. Tel.: 26–68–41.
Team leader — Onin Alexander Alexandrovich, same address and phone number.
Team coach — Biryukov Vladimir Nikolaevich, 720064, Frunze, 3rd microdistrict, bld. 17, apt. 29. Tel. 41–19–85.
The heights marked in the report were determined partly from the map, partly visually.
29 travel hours 124 pitons
| 25 | I IV | 20 m | 40° | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 24 | IV | 7 m | 50° | |||
| 23 | СК 3 placed VI | 8 m | 100° | |||
| 6 СК 2 placed VI | 5 m | 100° | ||||
| V | 15 m | 90° | ||||
| 22 | 6 СК 1 placed V | 30 m | 85° | |||
| 21 | V | 12 m | 10° | |||
| 20 | 1 sk | 15 m | 70° | |||
| 19 | 2 sk V | 10 m | 75° | |||
| 18 | V | 30 m | 40°–45° | |||
| 17 | Ч СК 1 placed VI | 10 m | 90°–95° | |||
| 16 | 6 СК V | 40 m | 80°–90° | |||
| 3 СК 1 forest VI | 10 m |
Route description by sections
The lead climber on section No. 4 is recommended to traverse the route in galoshes using chocks as standing pitons and applying slings.
Sections No. 16, 17 require the group on the route to exercise exceptional caution due to the presence of loose rocks and slabs.
Passing sections No. 22, 23 requires the use of standing pitons and ladders.
It is advisable to traverse the entire route in galoshes.
Photo No.1 with (7); August 9, 1982, 18:00, section 19; «Lubitel», «T-22», F-75 mm. — ascent route; 22 — VI cat. difficulty.
Photo No.2 with (7), August 2, 1982, 18:00, section 19. «Lubitel», «T-22», F-75 mm. — ascent route, 23, 24 — VI cat. difficulty.
Photo No.3 with (6), August 10, 1982, 10:00. «Lubitel», «T-22», F-75 mm.; Δ—control tour; — ascent route; Δ — bivouac. Δ—section VI cat. difficulty.