Difficult, belay on pitons. Sections IО — II, II — I2. Along the left part of the ruined wall straight up under the iced crack with a plug, on the right remains a rocky cornice.

The crack is passed using ladders, climbing is very difficult due to non-solid ice.

Sections I2 — I3, I3 — I4.

Further to the right along the shelf under the wide crack and left-upwards along the crack to the base of a small grey wall.

Climbing is difficult, "live rocks!", belay is only on pitons.

Sections R4–R5, R5–R6. The grey wall is climbed straight up, further to the right upwards along the snow-ice slope to the summit of the third bastion. Snow is deep but dry, steps hold very poorly, there is a risk of avalanche, since the base of the cover is ice.

At the summit of the third bastion, a clearly defined north-west ridge of p. Shar begins.

Sections I6–I7, I7–I8. Through a monolithic rocky wall (5 m) we exit under the first large gendarme of the ridge and, bypassing it on the right along a snow-ice couloir, exit to its summit. Here is a possible place for an overnight stay and the II control cairn is located.

Sections I8–I9, I9–I20. Along the right part of the ridge, holding onto rocks, along snow-ice slopes (quite steep) and rocky outcrops, we approach under the second gendarme of the ridge. Belay on rocky lumps!

Section 20–21. The second gendarme of the ridge is bypassed on the left along a steep iced rock wall. Climbing is extremely difficult, use of artificial aids is necessary.

Section 21–22. Along the ruined iced rocks (belay on pitons) on the right part of the ridge, we exit onto the main north ridge between v. Kosmonaft Romin and p. Shar, 200 m from the summit of Shar.

Sections:

• 22-23
• 23-24
• 24-25

Along the snow ridge with rockfall on the left side and rocky outcrops, overcoming a 75-degree snow wall and a small rocky one, we exit to the summit.

The descent from the summit goes along the north ridge through v. Kosmonavt Romin → p. Bazmanur to l. n.s. (p. Bazmanur). Via Dzhu 5. Kosmonavt Romin