Ascent

to Peak 5585 via the northern edge from the Maly Tanymas Valley (Central Pamir, Mazarskiye Alps) Expedition of the Odessa Regional Council DSO "Avangard" Ascent leader — Staritsky P. I. 2. Vlasenko A. 3. Orobei I. 4. Eremenkov. 5. Novoselov E. 6. Kolomeytseva V.

Peak 5826 meters. NORTH-WESTERN PAMIR. MALY TANIMAS VALLEY. FIRST ASCENT. 1967. Sports group of the Odessa DSO "Avangard". Ascent leader V. Nelupov. Odessa. 1969. Peak "5826 m" is located in one of the ridges formed by the peaks:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range
3. Peak, its height, route: Peak 6431, via NW wall (from Ayu-Jilga glacier)
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: Height difference:
   • Rocky part of the route — 1850 m
   • Snow-ice part of the route — 280 m
   • Total height difference of the route — 2130 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Western peak p. 4983 (Peak Belorussian Partisans) via the North face
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 950 m, average steepness — 70–75°
6. Pitons driven: For belaying: a) rock — 148 b) ice — 9

1. Category of ascent
2. Area of ascent, ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Proposed category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference, average steepness, length
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock ice
7. Number of walking hours
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics

The peak Kulizog (4688 m) is located in the Northwest Pamir in the upper reaches of the Vanch River, in the northern spur of the Vanch Ridge. The Kulizog peak is the easternmost in a group of five peaks (p. 4321 m, p. 5137 m, p. 5232 m, p. 5323 m, and Kulizog peak) that frame a horseshoe-shaped glacier feeding the Rovak stream, a tributary of the Vanch River. To the east flows the Abdukagor River. The first topographic survey of the area was conducted by N.G. Dorofeev in 1928. A more detailed topographic survey was carried out in 1949 by a group of topographers and glaciologists led by R.D. Zabirov. The few mountaineering expeditions that have worked in this area have chosen objects on:

• the northern and middle parts of the Geographical Society glacier (G.O.);
• the area of the Fedchenko glacier;
• the Abdukagor River valley. The first attempt to conquer Kulizog peak was made on August 2, 1972, by a group of climbers from the USSR Armed Forces: V. Golaktionov - leader, D. Tsamay, G. Chubinidze, A.M. Es'kin, V.A. Es'kin - from the upper reaches of the Rovak River. The group left their bivouac on the slope of the Rovak River at 8:00 and, reaching the first large gendarme, left a note by 15:00. The group did not reach the summit.

Description

I. Climbing class — technically challenging. 2. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Northern spur of the Vanch ridge, upper reaches of the Dustiroz river gorge. 3. Climbing route — peak "5307" via the Northern counterfort from the moraine of the Pravy Dustagor glacier. 4. Climbing characteristics: elevation gain — about 1600 m, average steepness — 45–50°, length of the challenging section — about 1100 m in height, starting from approximately 4000 m above sea level and up to the pre-summit ridge; total length of key sections — about 200 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 62, ice — 20, bolted pitons — not used. 6. Total climbing hours — 36 (ascent — 27, descent — 9). 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: total — 3 (two during ascent, one during descent). First bivouac at an altitude of about 4200 m. Can lay out a site for one tent. No water. Snow. Second bivouac on a shelf at an altitude of about 4750 m. Sitting bivouac. Safe. No water. Snow. Third bivouac on the Western ridge, 150–200 m beyond the summit. Can lay out a site for one or two tents. No water. Ice, snow. 8. Team name — sports group of the "Vysochnik" alpine camp, combined team from Gorky (SDSO "Burevestnik", DSO "Trud"). 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification: Rodionov Sergey Nikolaevich (leader) — 1st sports category, Vyshinsky Nikolay Nikolaevich — 1st sports category, instructor, Borisov Gennady Konstantinovich — 2nd sports category, instructor, Vavilov Alexander Ivanovich — 2nd sports category, instructor.

4.2.16

Report

Ravok East. Group of climbers SK A-18 SibVO on the first ascent to the peak 5223 m via the eastern ridge, route approximately category 3B.

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route.

Map of the ascent area.

Ascent and descent route.

Route description.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: TECHNICAL CLASS.
2. Ascent area: VANCH RANGE.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: RAVAK 5232 m EASTERN RIDGE of RAVAK GLACIER.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 1100 m
   • Average steepness: 44°
   • Length I–90 m: II–990 m: III–185 m: IV–275 m: V–15 m
6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. Russia, Kamchatka Peninsula, Ganal'skiy Ridge, "Ganal'skie Ostryaki" area. Section No. 3 KMGV.
2. Main Peak (2062 m). Route: "via the South Ridge".
3. Proposed - 4A category of difficulty. First ascent.
4. Nature of the route: rock.
5. Height difference of the route: –592 m. Route length: –710 m. Rock section length: –360 m. Length of sections: 5 category of difficulty — 8 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58°
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 1 piece;