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Report

On the first ascent of the route to peak Osypnoy via the north-west ridge, category 4A (approximately), accomplished by a "two-person team" from the KBVO training camp on August 12, 1979. TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route Team captain M. Sabirov Base camp of the KBVO training camp ↓ overnight stay location — route of movement. Brief description of the approach to the route. From the base camp, located near the lakes on the bank of the Vanch River, follow the road to the bridge over the Abdukagor River (0.3 hours). Cross the bridge. To the left, a trail begins, leading to the start of the Russian Geographic Society glacier. Follow it to the lateral moraine (1 hour). Then along the moraine (cairns) to the stream flowing from the slopes of peak Osypnoy and v. Krasnoarmeets. Up the stream to a large boulder. Overnight stay (camping site). www.alpfederation.ru![img-2.jpeg]({"width":2328,"height":1601,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/O34S8jYJsRflYhiikg4lWtqTcFnmrt0v/img-2.jpeg","id":64763968})

86

THIS ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE MEMBERS OF THE GROUP WHO DIED ON PIK PATRIOT IN 1953 Protocol No. 201 dated November 2, 1962 5B+1

Description of the Ascent to Pik Patriot

Ascent to Pik Patriot via the western ridge (Pamir, Garmo Glacier), July 1962. Group of the joint Soviet-British expedition to Pamir. July 26, 1962. Pik Patriot is located in the Academy of Sciences Range (Fig. 1). The first ascent to Pik Patriot (then known as Peak 6350 m) was made by a group of climbers from the "Lokomotiv" society led by B. Garf in 1950 via the southwest ridge, categorized as 5B. Garf, with the aim of scouting approaches to Pik Kommunizma, ascended to the upper cirque below Pik Patriot (photo 2) to traverse the spur extending from the Academy of Sciences Range (the western ridge of Pik Patriot). Garf wrote about the ascent options to Pik Patriot: "It was not possible to traverse the spur: it rose as a 300-meter wall (see photo 3)."

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR

CS DSO "Burevestnik" Championship in Alpinism 1969, High-Altitude Climbing Class

Peak Pravda (6500 m) via the Western Counterfort (approx. 5B cat. diff.)

TEAM OF THE LOCAL COMMITTEE OF THE CHELYABINSK POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE. Chelyabinsk, 1969 Peak Pravda (6400 m) is located in the center of the northwestern Pamir in the Akademiya Nauk Range, on the territory of the Tajik SSR. This region is the most elevated part of the Pamir. Here, particularly favorable conditions are created for the formation and accumulation of ice, which in the form of glaciers slides down the slopes of the ridges and peaks, filling the valleys (Fedchenko, Fortambek, Garmo, etc.). The snow line in this area is approximately at an altitude of 4000–4500 m. The climate in the region is sharply continental with sharp temperature fluctuations from winter to summer, from day to night. The high altitude and considerable technical complexity make Peak Pravda an excellent mountain in alpinist terms, and the ascent via the most difficult route—the western counterfort from the Belyaev Glacier—represents significant sporting interest. In 1968, a group of climbers ascended this route:

Ascent Passport

2. Ascent area — П3. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Pik Pravda, 6400 m, via the non-central counterfort of the western wall along the western ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5Б
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 5050 — 6400 (1350 m), average steepness — 60°, length of sections: Iк.тр. — 130 m, Пк.тр. — 80 m, Пк.тр. — 160 m, IVк.тр. — 470 m, Vк.тр. — 720 m, VIк.тр. — 50 m
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying: rock — 79, ice — 10, bolt — none
7. Number of walking hours to the summit — 31 hours

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT OF PIK REVOLYUTSIONEROV VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE (Pamir, Bivachny Glacier) A group from the TsS DSO "Burevestnik" expedition, July 22, 1961. Pik Rеvolyutsionerov is located in a lateral spur of the Marx-Engels ridge (fig. 1). The first ascent of Pik Rеvolyutsionerov was made in 1957 by a group from the Uzbek expedition led by Nikonov. The group that reached the summit did not classify the route or leave any description of the ascent. A note retrieved from the summit (dated August 30, 1957) only indicates the direction of the path taken by the group to reach the summit and mentions the significant danger of the route due to:

• crumbling rocks
• steep rocks on the north-west wall. On July 22, 1961, a group from the TsS DSO "Burevestnik" expedition consisting of:

Ascent Log

1. Type of ascent: High-altitude technical climb.
2. Region of ascent: Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range, Peak Sentyabrsky (Szent-Ekzyuperi) northwest of the Abdukagor-2 pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Sentyabrsky (Szent-Ekzyuperi), 6063 m, combined route via the left edge of the western wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1160 m, average steepness up to the summit ridge 54°. Length of sections with 6th category complexity — 50 m, 5th category complexity — 500 m, 4th category complexity — 800 m, 3rd category complexity — 300 m.
6. Number of pitons hammered:

For belaying and creating artificial holds

rock — 30 ice — 87

Climbing category — B/technical. Climbing region — Pamir. Darvaz Range. Peak, its height, route — p. 5970 (40 let Oktyabrya), height 5970 via N.E. spur. First ascent. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A. Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 240 m. Average steepness — 50°. Pitons hammered: rock ( закладки ) — 50, ice — 44. Number of travel hours — 18. Number of nights and their characteristics — one, cut out in ice. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualification:

1. Efimov S. — MS
2. Lavrukhin V. — MS Team coach: — Efimov S. Date of departure and return — July 14–15, 1978. Dushanbe — 1978

Scheme of l. Bivachny area

Report

On the first ascent to Pik Tельмана (5970) via the Southwest ridge from the Bivachny glacier by the team of Ukr совет ДСО «СПАРТАК» consisting of:

• Komarov N.P. (team leader)
• Denisenko P.N.
• Ladnushkin V.M.
• Starodub O.V.
• Sulimovsky N.V. [^0]

Ascent Passport

I ascent class — first ascent. 2 Ascent area — Bivachny glacier. 3 Peak — p. Tel'mana (40 let Oktyabrya). Height — 5970 m. Ascent route — southwest ridge with a saddle between p. 5970 and 5700 m. 4 Assumed difficulty category — 3B. 5 Route description:

• Elevation gain — 800 m
• Average slope — 40–50°. Driven pitons: rock protection — 10 pcs. Duration: 7 hours. Number of nights and their characteristics: one overnight under the route on the glacier moraine. Surname and initials of the leader, participants and their qualification:

Ascent Record

(Nesendag from Vakhchag Pass, Category 1B difficulty)

1. Type of Ascent Combined
2. Ascent Area 2.9. Eastern Caucasus
3. Peak, its Height, and Route Nesendag (3925 m), from Vakhchag Pass
4. Anticipated Difficulty Category 1B