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Route Description: ЮЗ кулуару
Report on the first ascent of the route through the SW couloir of Bashnya peak (2930 m) with a complexity category of 1B in April 2024.
REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT BASHNYA 2930 m VIA THE SW COULoir, CAT. DIFF. 1B by the GSK Upravlenie alpinistskikh lagerei team from April 26 to 26, 2024
I. Climbing Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Chikin Artem Borisovich CMS |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Gayunov Alexander unranked, Plyuta Dmitry unranked |
| 1.3 | Coach's full name | Yakovenko A.N. |
| 1.4 | Organization | GSK UAL |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object |
Route Description: правому кулуару СВ стены
Description of the first ascent of a combined route of category III complexity to the summit of Adala-Shukgelmeér (4151 m) via the right gully of the North-Eastern wall in the Bogossky ridge, Dagestan.
I. Category of first ascents. 2. Region 2.10, Dagestan Mountains, Bogossky Ridge. 3. Addalashukhgelmeer, 415 m, via the right gully of the North-East face, combined route. 4. Proposed category 3B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 700 m, route length: category 1 - 450 m, category 2 - 450 m, category 3 - 120 m, category 4 - 195 m, category 5 - 15 m, total route length 1220 m, average slope of the gully 45°. 6. Pitons used: rock - 6 pcs, ice screws - 17 pcs. 7. Climbing time - 7 hours. 8. No overnight stays. Overnight stay at the base camp, at TDS "Sulak-Vysokogornaya" (2953 m). 9. Leader: Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, Candidate for Master of Sports. Team members: Ivanov Alexander Petrovich, 2nd sports category; Maximov Vladimir Vladimirovich, 2nd sports category; Fomin German Vladimirovich, 2nd sports category.
Route Description: ц. кф. СВ стены
Report on the first ascent of Adдала-Shukhgelmeэр Mountain (4151 m) via the North-East wall in 1984, category of difficulty 5B.
PASSPORT
- The route is combined
- East Caucasus 2.9, Kila River valley
- Mt. Addala-Shukhgelmeer (4151) via the north-eastern wall.
- Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Route characteristics: a. Elevation gain: 1100 m. b. Average steepness of main sections: 68° (3250–4080 m) c. Length: 1550 m (II cat. — 350 m; III cat. — 340 m; IV cat. — 460 m; V cat. — 400 m.)
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: Ю гребню
First ascent description of an unnamed peak 3903 in Dagestan via the southern ridge, category of complexity 2B, route length 1230 m.
Ascent Passport
I. Rock Route 2. 2.96 — Dagestan Mountains (Eastern Caucasus) 3. Ascent to peak 3903 from the SOUTH (first ascent) 4. Proposed category — 2B cat. diff. 548, part 9. 16/4–85 5. Characteristics of the summit: * route length — 1230 m * total height difference — 780 m * average steepness — 40° * length of sections: I cat. diff. 625 m
Route Description: С ребру
Ascent to the summit of Babaku (3997 m) via the North Ridge, a rocky route, category IV complexity, first ascent in 1995.
Ascent Log
- Category of first ascents.
- Region 2.10. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Babaku ridge.
- Babaku, 3997 m, via the North Edge, rock route.
- Category 4B complexity, first ascent.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain 500 m, average steepness of the edge 45°, length 1300 m, section lengths: 1—800 m, 2—85 m, 4—45 m, 5—85 m, including climbing with artificial aids (ITOs): A1–7 m, A2–16 m.
- Used: placement elements: 37/13 rock pitons: 16/2 outcrops: 6
Route Description: С ребру
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Bazardyuzi (4466 m) via the North Ridge, difficulty category 2B, altitude difference 2338 m, duration 14 hours.
13
I. Climbing category — Combined 2. Climbing area — 2.9. Eastern Caucasus 3. Peak, its height and ascent route — Bazardyuzi (4466 m) via N ridge 4. Expected difficulty category — 2B cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2338 m average steepness — 45° section lengths: I—2500 m, II—200 m, III—70 m, IV—40 m, V—200 m, VI—250 m, VII—40 m, VIII—350 m 6. Number of pitons driven: for belay for creating belay stations
Route Description: В гребню
Description of the first ascent of Balial peak (4007 m) via the eastern ridge, category 1B difficulty, with route characteristics and approaches.
Ascent Passport
- The route is combined
- 2.96 – Dagestan mountains (2.9 East Caucasus)
- Ascent to Mt. Bali-al (4007 m) via the Eastern ridge, first ascent
- Proposed category – 1B, reg. No 548, 4.7. 16/4–85
- Route characteristics:
- length – 810 m
- total elevation gain – approx. 550 m
- average steepness – 35°
- length of categorized sections:
Route Description: СВ стене
Description of the ascent to the summit of Bodonai (4049 m) via the North-East wall, difficulty category 4A, first ascent in 1995.
Ascent Passport.
- First ascent category.
- Region 2.10., Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Shalib ridge.
- Bodonai 4049 m, via the Northeast wall, combined route.
- 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route characteristics: height difference 400 m, average steepness 50 °, length 730 m, by sections: 1 – 270 m, 2 – 150 m, 3 – 130 m, 4 – 120 m, 5 – 50 m, 6 – 10 m, of which climbing with aid: A2 – 10 m.
- Used: 21/8 chocks, 18/2 rock pitons, 3 "carrot" ice screws, 1 rock protrusion; 3 rock pitons left on the route (at points 6, 8 (control cairn), 10).
- Climbing hours: 5 hours.
- Overnight at the moraine pocket (3500 m) in the NE cirque, in the upper reaches of the Bodonai river.
- Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — Candidate Master of Sports
Route Description: СЗ кулуару и Ю гребню
First ascent to the summit Butnubmez Glavny (3932 m) by the northwest couloir and Jnmu ridge, 2A category of complexity.
ASCENT REPORT I. Category of the first ascent. 2. 2.10. Dagestan mountains, Nukatl ridge, Kabza gorge. 3. Butnubmeer Glavny peak, 3932 m, via North-West couloir and South ridge, combined route. 4. Proposed: first ascent, cat. 2A difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, route length 1200 m, including 1st cat. difficulty – 660 m, 2nd cat. difficulty – 450 m, 3rd cat. difficulty – 80 m, 4th cat. difficulty – 10 m, average steepness 40°. 6. Pitons driven – 2, snow anchors placed – 3, pitons left on the route – 1. 7. Climbing hours – 4. 8. No bivouacs. Overnight stay in BL, in Kabza gorge (2800 m). 9. Leader:
Route Description: ЮВ лапе
Report on the ascent to the summit of Belalakaya 3861 m via the South-Eastern lap, presumably category V A difficulty, first ascent.
Report on the Ascent of the National Team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the Summit of Belalakaya 3861 m
via the South-Eastern Lap. Presumably 5A category of difficulty. First Ascent. Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — 1st sports category Report compiled in November 2019
2. Caucasus
2.2. From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass
Climbing Participants
- Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A.