"Bikaravgom Zapadny" Route via the West Ridge

(combined, 4A cat. diff.) The path from the KSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the starting point on the platforms of the West Ridge of Bivuchnaya peak. From the bivouac (departure at 2-3 am due to rockfall in the couloir and the length of the route):

• Cross the Karaugom plateau.
• Move along the wide snow-ice couloir descending from the saddle between the peak and the West Gendarme.
• From the plateau, ascend 50-70 m up the snowy slope of the wide couloir to the bergschrund.
• Overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge.
• Ascend 250-300 m along the left side of the wide, steep snow-ice couloir (possible rockfall — prepare equipment).
• Reaching the foot of the rocky walls of the West Gendarme, traverse 100-120 m along the couloir beside the rocks on the right side of the gendarme (rockfall onto the saddle of the West Ridge — cornice — is possible on the right).

62. West Karaugom via the North Edge

(combined route, 5A category) Path from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac near the Gular Glacier under the Northwest wall of Karaugom. From the bivouac, approach the left side of the North edge of West Karaugom peak via the Gular Glacier. From the glacier, ascend 80 m via "ram foreheads," then 200–250 m via ledges, easy and moderately difficult rocks. Next, ascend 40–50 m via snowy, slab-like steep rocks and a narrow snowy ledge on the left side of the North edge to approach the ice couloir descending from the right of the edge. Ascend 170–200 m up the ice-snow couloir with rock islands, bypassing a rock wall in its middle on the left. From the couloir, ascend via difficult rocks of an 80-meter wall to reach the North edge. 5–7 hours from the initial bivouac. Ascend 200 m straight up the sharp monolithic North edge with three steep rises. Then, make a 12–15 m rappel to a col. Traverse via heavily broken rocks of the col to reach the rocks on the left side of the North edge, then ascend via slab-like rocks of a difficult 90-meter wall (30–40 m to the right of the chimney) to reach the North edge. Continue via simple, gently sloping, heavily broken rocky North edge with ice-snow sections and ledges to ascend beyond a small gendarme onto a ledge. Bivouac on the site. 12–14 hours from the initial bivouac.

23. KARAUGOM (W-INDENTATIONS) 4A. K. Traverse

From the camping site of the Tsey district along the trail to the Tsey Glacier, across the glacier to Khitsan, then through the Khitsan pass to the North Cirque, through Tsey-Karaugomsky to the Karaugom plateau. 10–12 hours. Similar bivouac - the site of the Western ridge of the Dyuach peak. Cross the Karaugom plateau to the Northwest and along the southern slope of the Southeast buttress of the V. Karau peak, passing the bergschrund, along the steep 350-meter snowy slope to the saddle of the SE buttress above the large I gendarme. On the saddle, turn left and ascend along the sharp snow-ice slope. Further along simple, местами средней трудности, snow-covered sections of the Southeast buttress approach the large gendarme. Climb to the right along the steep ice-rock slope or straight up, then along the snowy ridge - ascent to the shoulder, then along the damaged sections - ascent to the summit. The path takes 7–8 hours. The further path goes down. By sports climbing or rappel 30 m to the ridge, along the ridge, bypassing the gendarmes on the left along the steep ice-rock slope under the gendarme, which is overcome straight up along the rocks of medium difficulty. I and II gendarmes are bypassed on the left along the steep ice-rock slope to the saddle. Along the steep ice-snow slope (120–150 m) approach the Omshno peak. Then along the iced 200–250 m rocks of medium difficulty and along the ridge rise to the West Karaugom peak. Descent along the simple ridge to the west - 120 m. Further into the couloir and along (downhill) side. Rappel 12–15 m. Further along the left side - 150–200 m (rocks of medium difficulty) along the ice-rock couloir down. Along the steep ice-rock ridge down traverse to the saddle. Descent from the saddle along the ice-rock slope - 400–500 m, crossing the moraine crevice, to the Karaugom plateau. Duration of the route - 2 days.

66. Krasnoarmeets peak (combined route, category 4A) From the CSP of Tsey region through Khitsan pass to the North circus of Tsey glacier. Cross the circus in the direction of Dubl peak. Go around the CSA peak massif from the left. Overnight on a snowy plateau below Krasnoarmeets peak. From the overnight stay across the closed glacier through the bergschrund to the rocks of the Southeast ridge of Krasnoarmeets peak. Along the talus shelf on the rocks to the first control cairn (start of the route). From the cairn upwards through a steep rocky forehead (4–5 m) in the direction up to the right (sporty ascent). At this point the rocks have a negative angle of inclination. Further along the shelf:

• to the right,
• then left and up to a wide black chimney. Up the chimney (50–60 m, 60°, rockfall hazard!) to a site in the middle of the chimney. From the site further up the chimney with an exit from it to the right onto the ridge. On the ridge — a site, second control cairn. From the first to the second control cairn — 2–3 hours. Further:
• crossing a snow-talus slope,
• along rocks of medium difficulty (protection via a ledge) to a wide ridge.

Krasnoflotets

The low, sharp triangle of Krasnoflotets peak (4100 m) is located in the southeastern part of the Karaugom plateau, in the Tsey range, between the Northern Double-peak to the south and the Krasnoarmeyets peak to the northeast. From the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier, Krasnoflotets is not visible, as it is embedded in the Karaugom plateau. A low ice saddle connects the Krasnoflotets peak with the Bivouachnaya peak, located northwest of the peak in the center of the Karaugom plateau. In 1939, A. Komarov, K. Kuzmin, A. Petrov, and M. Rabinovich ascended the peak via the only existing route at that time. Two small rocky ridges rising from the Karaugom plateau remain unclimbed. 116. Krasnoflotets via the Northeast ridge (combined route, 2A category of complexity, Fig. 20, 27). The path from the KSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the saddle of the Tsey range between the Krasnoarmeyets peak to the left and the Krasnoflotets peak to the right, with an initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak, is described in routes 83 and 114. On the saddle, turn right and ascend a steep 180-200-meter ice-and-snow slope (cornices), then climb the heavily destroyed and snow-covered simple Northeast ridge to reach the Krasnoflotets peak. From the initial bivouac, it takes 4-5 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. Fig. 27

ASCENT DOCUMENT

2.7.68

1. Ascent category: combined
2. Ascent area: ridge — Caucasus, Tsey Valley, Kalper ridge.
3. Peak, height, route, route characteristics: Lagau, 4064 m via Western ridge
4. Proposed category: 2B
5. Pitons used: six
6. Route characteristics: height difference 600 m, average slope 30°.
7. Duration: 10 hours
8. Number of nights:

222. Lagai (4124 m) via the Northwest slope (K. Barov's combined route, category 4A). From the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-8 people), ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon River. After passing the "Green Hill," climb the moraine that turns left. From the end of the moraine, traverse a wide scree slope to the left to reach a small plateau below the Northwest slopes of Lagai. Set up the initial bivouac on the plateau. The journey from the CSP of the Tsey region takes 4-5 hours. From the plateau (depart at 3:00 due to rockfall risk in the lower section of the route):

• Ascend a steep, potentially snow-covered scree slope in a wide couloir to reach three rock buttresses separated by narrow, steep snow and ice couloirs, to the right of the steep, rugged snow and ice slope of Lagai.
• From here, climb simple to moderately difficult rocks on the middle buttress ("loose rocks"), bypassing gendarmes on the left, to reach a platform on the left saddle.
• An alternative ascent to the saddle is possible via a couloir on the left, but it is more prone to rockfall. The journey from the initial bivouac takes 2-4 hours. From the saddle, ascend rocks of moderate difficulty, then a 200-220-meter snow and ice slope (avalanche and rockfall risk), to reach a col formed by ice falls from the glacier on the left and a rock belt wall on the right. From under the col:
• Climb 120-150 meters to the right and upwards on steep, slab-like, destroyed, and icy rocks of the belt wall, with moderate to above moderate difficulty ("loose rocks" - piton protection);

Fig. 38 185. Mamison (4319 m) via Southeast Ridge (combined route by G. Maslov, category III difficulty, Fig. 38). The path from the Tsey district base camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Tsey-Mamison Pass with the initial bivouac under it on the upper plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83-17-91-82. At the pass, turn right and approach the 150-meter wall below the lower (first) ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Mamison Peak via the firn slope. Traverse the wall from the left along a narrow shelf (belay) to a couloir. Then ascend a steep snowy and icy scree couloir to a platform. From the platform, climb rocks of above-average difficulty (pitched belay) on a 20-25-meter wall with few holds to reach the Southeast Ridge above the first ascent. Continue along the wide, long, straightforward snowy Southeast Ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on via severely broken rocks of average difficulty (belay). Then follow a narrow snowy-icy ridge to the Ronketti Pass. Approach the summit ascent of Mamison via the wide snowy saddle of the pass. From the Tsey-Mamison Pass, it takes 5-6 hours. From the saddle, ascend a steep, wide snowy slope to enter a narrow icy-snowy couloir or exit to the right onto simple rocks alternating with snowy sections on the counterforce. Follow the subsequent route:

• a steep, narrow snowy couloir,

Moscow Order of Lenin Aviation Institute

named after Sergo Ordzhonikidze

Ascent

to the summit of Mamisong Khokh via the right edge of the North face (approximately 5B category of difficulty) First ascent. Group leader: V. Obruchnikov. Coaches: Master of Sports of the USSR L. Puchkov Master of Sports of the USSR M. Zinin

Kichkinelkol from Talychat Pass, combined, 2B

Route Description

From the ice bivouacs, cross the Sredniy Kichkinelkol glacier plateau to reach the slopes of Talychat Pass, located to the left of Kichkinelkol peak. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Cross via a bridge or the rock shelves of the island adjacent to the left edge of the bergschrund (rocks are heavily damaged, beware of falling stones!). Then, ascend the left side of the snowy couloir, with a steepness of up to 45°, to reach Talychat Pass (beware of stones!). In the second half of summer, fine and loose scree appears in the upper part of the couloir. Traverse close to the Talychat rocks or leftwards via shelves and individual rock outcrops («live» stones!). From the bivouac to the pass — 3–4 hours. From the pass, move to the eastern side of the ridge, then traverse 40 m via shelves, followed by an ascent up two internal corners to the left of the large rock wall R1 to an inclined shelf between R3 and R4. From there, ascend short walls and blocks to reach the main ridge at R5. Alternative ascent from the pass (if there's no snow):

• Ascend an internal corner past the ridge line to an inclined shelf.
• Then, climb a steep wall to reach the main ridge and proceed to R5 along it. From R5, ascend the ridge and slightly below it, which is composed of inclined slabs, to reach the summit. From the pass — 3–4 hours. Descent follows the «Kichkinelkol from Kichkinelkol Pass» route.
• Begin the ascent to Talychat Pass at 5:00–6:00 am.