(Donguzorun Lesser Peaks via the Eastern Ridge, cat. 2A)

From the "Av" cafe to the bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend along the talus and simple broken rocks of the pinnacle slope of this peak, to the right of the counterfort, to its eastern shoulder. From the shoulder, move left and proceed along the wide talus ridge to a large snowpatch. Along the ridge (beware of cornices!) on the snowpatch, ascend to the talus, from which, via simple broken rocks and talus, reach the summit of Azau-Gitche-Chegetkar. (1 hour) From the summit, move west along the wide snow-covered simple rocky ridge, reaching the first rocky gendarme. Ascend the gendarme via the sharp steep rocky ridge, then descend 10 meters via rappel. Continue along the simple rocky ridge. The second gendarme is bypassed on the left via strongly broken rocks — the rocks are steep, requiring piton protection. After the gendarme, proceed along the simple rocks of the wide ridge to beneath the third gendarme — a slab-like formation. Bypass the gendarme on the left ("live" rocks, protection required). Further along the simple broken rocks of the wide ridge, reach beneath the tower of the Big Gendarme of the Eastern Ridge. From the ridge, ascend 5–7 meters up the wall of the gendarme, then traverse it along the steep rocks on the left side ("live" rocks, protection required), and descend 11–12 meters via rappel to the saddle of the talus ridge. Along the ridge, ascend beneath the rocky giant of the summit. From beneath the giant, traverse left along the yellow rocky ledge to a slab. Up and to the right along the slab (protection required!) to the ridge of the giant. From here, ascend along the simple broken rocks of the ridge to the summit of Donguzorun. From the summit of Azau-Gitche-Chegetkar — 4–5 hours. Descent from the summit via category IB difficulty from the south, along simple rocks to a slab.

• Down and to the left along the slab to the yellow rocky ledge.

Report on the Ascent of Maly Donguz-Orun Peak via the Eastern Ridge, Category 2A, by the MAC "Freeline" Climbing Team from 01.07.2018 to 01.07.2018

I. Ascent Passport

Route Description

From the "Baksan" alpine base, the group departed by car at 8:00 on June 30, 1975, to the lower station of the "Cheget" ropeway and ascended to the "Ai" café. From here, the movement:

• is to the right along the road for 20 minutes,
• then along a faintly marked trail,
• traversing the northeastern slopes of Maly Donguzorun peak,
• we ascend to a saddle in the northern ridge. This is the starting point of the route. The path from the "Ai" café to the saddle takes 3 hours. The first control cairn was set up on the saddle. At 14:00, the group began moving from the saddle in rope teams, to the right along the ridge on snow for 100–120 m below the wall. Up the steep wall (80° steepness) for 15 m to the right and upwards, and exit onto the ridge (pitons used for protection).

Description, Marinuto

The path from "Terekos" to "Kurnik". At the beginning, at the 14-year end, it does not provide conveniently erroneous simple and impeccable things. From "Kurnik" common smooth and short and dry oxidations, refusing oxidations. Along the length of oxidation, given in oxidation, in 12–14 years at 8:00–10:00:

• refusing smooth
• not refusing oxidation yielding from the execution of skis. The violation is not violated for oxidation, gives and 10 m. Inside conveniently marinuto, violation. With a violation at the 14-year end, and 80 m. Inside, violation, on

65. Traverse of the Donguzorun massif from east to west (route by V. Kabanov, category IIIA difficulty). The path from the "Baksan" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the Eastern peak of the Donguzorun massif is described in routes 61 and 63. From the Eastern peak, ascent to the Main peak of the massif follows a broad rocky-snow ridge, with occasional steep sections, overcoming small gendarmes directly. Descent from the Main peak follows a snowy ridge with small connecting sections, as well as small gendarmes that can be passed directly, leading to the Western peak. Descent along the southwestern slopes with an overnight stay on a platform under the southwestern ridge of Nakra peak is described in route 56. Duration of the route is 3 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2×30 m, auxiliary cordelette - 2 m, rock pitons - 3-4, ice screws - 4-5, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac sites are practically available on all sections of the main massif's ridge. ("Baksan valley", A.F. Naumov)

Irik-Chat western 1B cat. diff.

The ascent to Western Irik-Chat starts from a bivouac located in the Chat gorge on the upper green areas among numerous streams. The ascent is via the central couloir, clearly visible in the relief, which is covered with large talus. Snow remains in places within the couloir. After two to three hours of ascent, the couloir forks. The ascent continues via the left (in the direction of travel) couloir to a snowy saddle between two gendarmes located on the ridge running from the western summit. The gendarmes are overcome head-on. The rocks are not difficult, but belaying is necessary through protrusions and shoulder throws. Then, we reach the ridge leading directly to the summit. The ridge consists of easy rocks, which give way to large talus just before the summit. The entire ascent takes 4–4.5 hours. Descent is via the ascent route.

16. Traverse of Irikchata from west to east (P. Rototaev's route, cat. 3B, complexity). The path from the "Razvilka" of the Baksan valley and Adylsu gorge (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Irikchat Zapadnaya is described in route 14. From the Zapadnaya summit, descend via

113. Peak Caucasus via the Southwest Ridge (Route 2A cat. difficulty). The path from the Shhelda alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the Double Glacier is described in route 111. Across the Double Glacier straight up to its bifurcation. Then ascent (with crampons!) up the steep icefall of the right glacier branch. At the end of the ascent, exit left onto the easy rocks of the ridge dividing the glacier into two parts, and ascend to the sites (there is water). From the sites (without backpacks):

• Exit to the upper ice-snow plateau
• Movement across the plateau and a small snowy slope
• Ascent to the Shheldinsky Pass (0.5 hours from the sites; 8-10 hours from the Shhelda alpine camp). From the pass:
• Left and up a snowy couloir to ascend to the Southwest Ridge of Peak Caucasus East.
• Movement along the easy, in places moderately difficult, broken and snow-covered rocks of the ridge - to a site below the pre-summit wall.

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Central Caucasus. Shkhelda gorge (Double Glacier area)
3. Peak Kavkaz 4037 m via the SE buttress.
4. Difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: a) elevation gain — 320 m; b) length of section R1–R2 — 40 m; c) average steepness — 60–65°
6. Number of pitons hammered — 26 pcs.
7. Climbing hours — 14 (including approach through Double Glacier)

Unnamed peak 3593 m (p. Kaluga) via N slope and W ridge

PASSPORT

1. Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su gorge
2. Unnamed peak (p. Kaluga) 3593 m via N slope and W ridge
3. Proposed as Category 1B first ascent
4. Route is combined
5. Height difference 220 m Route length 400 m
6. Movement time 11 hours
7. Leader — Cheresku I.D. CMS