Passport

I. Class of first ascents 2. Pamir, Havraz-Dara valley 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena" via the bastions of the left part of the East wall 4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain 1619 meters. Average slope up to the ridge — 68°. Average slope up to the summit — 65°. Average slope of sections R23–R24 — 85°. R42–R48 — 85°. 6. Piton placement

1. Climbing category: high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing area: South-Eastern Pamir, Yazgulem Ridge, Khovraz-Dara valley.
3. Summit: Pik Kholodnaya Stena (5959) via the right bastion of the north face.
4. Assumed category: 5B (first ascent).
5. Route characteristics:
   • combined route
   • total elevation gain: 1500 m
   • wall section elevation gain: 1100 m
   • ridge elevation gain: 400 m
   • total route length: 3770 m

Route description by sections

Section R0–R1, R2–R4, R4–R5, R6–R9, R9–R28, R28–R81, R81–R86, R86–R88, R88–R89, R89–R40, R40–R41, R41–R42, R42–R48, R43–R44 Very destroyed rock wall. Rock wall, in the middle part - a cornice, is passed with the use of artificial support points (И.Т.О.). Alternation of:

• rock walls
• inner corners
• shelves Passed by free climbing (many loose stones).

Russian Championship (Technical Climbing Category)

Climbing Report of the MAI Team

on peak Chiringyad 5864 m via the center of the Western wall, 6B category, August 5-8, 2008 Moscow, 2008 Team Captain: M. Volkov alpclu@yandex.ru ph. +7-985-233-83-64 Team Coach: V. Lavrinenko lavrinenco2004@mail.ru ph. +7-916-439-03-12 Report preparation: M. Pankov maxtreme@bk.ru ph. +7-910-492-76-05

Climbing Details

№ 4.12.61, peak Chiringyad 5864 m via the center of the Western wall (N. Petrov, 1989), 6B

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent region — Pamir, Yazgulem ridge («Kalev»)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. 5700 m from Gantman pass via SW ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3A combined
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 450 m average steepness – 30°, length of sections: R1 – 300 m, R2 – 280 m, R3 – 328 m, R4 – 80 m
6. Pitons driven for protection: for creating belays
   • rock – 6
   • ice – 31

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class – technical
2. Ascent area – Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route – p. 5700 m, from Gantman's Pass along the SW ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category – 3A combined
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 450 m, average steepness – 30°, section lengths – R1–300 m; R2–280 m; R3–328 m; R4–80 m
6. Number of pitons for protection: for creating belays
   • rock – 6
   • ice – 31
7. Number of travel hours – 6 hours

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent region — North Shugnan ridge Bur 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — peak "5026" via the eastern wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1436 m, average steepness — 60 degrees, length of sections — R1 — none, R2 — none; R3 — 620 m, R4 — 690 m, R5 — 325 m, R6 — 35 m. 6. Pitons driven: for belaying for creating R.P. rock 28, ice screw 3

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Pgo — Western Pamir, Severo-Shugnanskiy ridge 3. Peak-Vodj, 5434 m, via the eastern ridge, combined 4. Proposed category — 3A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average slope — 40°, length of sections of category III — 360 m, category IV — 100 m 6. Pitons used: - for belaying for standing belay rock — 7 - ice — 3 - bolt —

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area: 10-3 Pamir, North Shugnanskij Ridge.
3. Peak, height, ascent route: P. 5204 via the left edge of the northern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation difference: 1050 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m; average steepness — 70°.
6. Number of pitons:

Ullu-auz (G) Ullu-auz (M) 4A Kalai-Tag Saratov July 11, 1986 400, 60 °, 12 199