Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical

2. Ascent region — Pamir, Yazgulem ridge («Kalev»)

3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. 5700 m from Gantman pass via SW ridge

4. Proposed difficulty category — 3A combined

5. Route characteristics: height difference – 450 m

   average steepness – 30°, length of sections: R1 – 300 m, R2 – 280 m, R3 – 328 m, R4 – 80 m

6. Pitons driven for protection: for creating belays

   • rock – 6
   • ice – 31

7. Number of climbing hours – 6 h

8. Number of nights – 0

9. Full name of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

   1. Hanonen Kalle Rihardovich – 2nd sports category
   2. Lykhmuс Alfred Alfredovich – 2nd sports category

10. Team coach – Priymets Ilmar

11. Date of departure on the route and return – August 18, 1984

Scheme of the 6047 m peak area

Central Pamir, Yazgulem ridge

Approach to the route

There are two options to approach the SW ridge of «KALEV» peak (p. 5700):

1. from the North via Gantman pass;
2. from the South.

The base camp is located at the terminal moraine of Gantman glacier at an altitude of 3900 m. From the base camp to the first icefall, we walked along the left-bank (orogr.) moraine. Further, it is possible to move in two ways:

1. next to the icefall along the left bank (orogr.) or
2. bypassing the rocky spur next to the icefall on the right (in the direction of travel) along the talus slope, which leads above the icefall to the glacier.

We went along the second option. Travel time from the base camp to the glacier is 2 h 30 min.

In its plain part, the glacier is open. The second icefall is passed in the lower part, in the center. Further along the steep part, it is passed on the right in the direction of travel until Gantman pass.

Travel time to pass the upper icefall is 3 h.

From Gantman pass (5330), the entire ascent route is visible; it takes 50 min to walk to the beginning of the route from the pass across the closed glacier.

The approach to the ridge from the south is along the moraine and open glacier to the rock wall with a height difference of 800–900 m and steepness of 70–80°, which leads to the SW ridge of p. 5700 m (p. «KALEV»).

Table of main characteristics of the ascent route

UIAA scheme of p. 5700 m («KALEV» peak)

p. 5700 m («KALEV» peak)