At the 1977 Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship in the category of technically complex ascents

Peak Popovich (approximately 4800 m)

Alaisky ridge, Pamir-Alai, Cosmonauts' Horseshoe. (first ascent) Combined team of Dnipropetrovsk regional council of the Spartak Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports Petrychenko N.N. Participants:

• Candidate Master of Sports Protsenko L.V.
• Zurabishvili Z.D.
• Rybalka K.P. Dnipropetrovsk — 1977

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alay, Alayskiy ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. SAIV, 4650 m, via the eastern ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m average steepness — 50°, length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 500 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 360 m, 4th cat. diff. — 120 m 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating RPS (Rappel and Intermediate Protection Points): rock — 38, ice — hammer-screw 7. Number of walking hours: 9 hours

2

Teams

SACS “BAKA–Dugoba 2012” on the ascent route to Mt. SAGU via the icy slope of the northern wall of the northwestern ridge "3B", (K)

Leader

Temerev I.M.

Participants

Timofeev D.I., Matveev S.V., Voronezhceva O.A., Alabugin I.V., Tyshkylova N.P., Selezneva S.V., Mukhametzhanov B.M.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, region 5.1.1. Gadjir, Mashalyan, Dugoba, Koyсу, Archakanysh rivers basin (north of the Alay range).
2. Mt. SAGU, icy slope of the Northern wall of the northwestern ridge.

REPORT

On the ascent of the "Taymyr" club team at the XIII Open Russian Championship in Alpinism in the technical class Sauk-Jalau (SE) peak via the 3rd wall — 6A category of complexity Team coach and captain — Kudrim A. V. 1995 For any questions regarding the report, please contact: 663319, Norilsk, Ordzhonikidze St., bld. 2, apt. 93, A. V. Kudrin. | Section | Length | Steepness | Category |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Ascent route: Peak Uzbekistan 5140 m (via the ice board of the northern wall)
4. Route characteristics height difference: 1050 m, average steepness: 65°, most challenging sections: 90°
5. Length of sections: III cat. diff. — 420 m, IV cat. diff. — 160 m V cat. diff. — 535 m, VI cat. diff. — 120 m
6. Pitons used:

Ascent Certificate

1. Technical category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Dugoba river basin.
3. Peak "Uzbekistan", 5100 m, category 5B via North wall, V. Rassokha, 76.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 900 m (by altimeter); route length — 1270 m; length of category V sections — 60 m; category VI sections — 20 m; average steepness:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Uzbekistan, 5140 m, via the center of the North face
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B category
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 1000 m Average steepness 65° Section lengths:
   • III category — 240 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Region 3. Peak, its height, route taken: KhUGGDUM Peak, 3850 m, West Ridge and North Crest 4. Proposed category of difficulty 5. Route characteristics: 6B category. Height difference. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty. Average steepness: West Ridge - North Crest 6. Number of pitons used: rock, ice, bolted. Number of placed protection gear used 7. Number of travel hours 8. Number of nights spent 9. Full name of the leader and participants, their qualification

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via N.N.E. wall by Ovcharov's path.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m; average steepness — 65°; length of sections: 1st diff. cat. — 40 m, 3rd-4th diff. cat. — 510 m, 5th diff. cat. — 400 m, 6th diff. cat./technical — 50 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 19; ice — 5;

REPORT

on the ascent to peak Arsen in the western part of the northern wall (first ascent), category 5B difficulty, of the Sports Committee team of the Kazakh SSR Team members:

• 30/11-77
• Denisenko A.A.
• Vorobyov A.S. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 1977 www.alpfederation.ru

Approach to the route