To the USSR Championship in Alpinism

Report on the Ascent of Peak Engels via the East Face

(Category: High-altitude Technical Ascent) Expedition Leader — Master of Sports USSR, Senior Instructor LEVIN B.V. Team Coaches:

• Honored Coach of the RSFSR, Master of Sports USSR MARKOV V.G.
• Master of Sports USSR, Senior Instructor PLYSHCHEVSKY M.A. Team Members:
• Captain: MALTSEV V.F.
• Deputy Captain: OVCHINNIKOV M.F.

Ascent Log

1. Class: HIGH-ALTITUDE
2. Ridge: SHAKHDARINSKY
3. Peak: Engels Peak (6510 m) via the CENTER OF THE EAST FACE
4. Difficulty category: 6
5. Height difference: 1340 m, distance 1885 m
6. Category V difficulty sections: 315 m
7. Category VI difficulty sections: 360 m
8. Pitons used: | Piton type | Quantity |

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — high-altitude.
2. Ascent area — South-Western Pamir, Shahdara Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak Engels, 6510 m, via the center of the eastern wall.
4. Difficulty category — 6.
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1400 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 830 m. Average steepness of the wall — 78°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock 164, ice 5, bolt 26. Including for creating Intermediate Technical Objectives (ITO): rock 22, bolt 26.

Ascent Passport

1. Class: HIGH-ALTITUDE
2. Ridge: SHAKHDARINSKY
3. Peak: Peak ENGELS (6510) via the CENTER OF THE EAST FACE
4. Difficulty category: 6
5. Height difference: 1340 m, distance 1885 m
6. Sections of V difficulty category – 340 m
7. Sections of VI difficulty category – 360 m
8. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice screws |

ASCENT DOCUMENT

of the ascent made at the Central Sports Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society alpine championship in 1984 Ascent category — high-altitude Ascent area — South-West Pamir, Kishy-Jerob gorge Ascent route — Peak Engels (6510 m) via the center of the eastern wall — 6B Characteristics of the ascent:

• height difference (wall) — 1000 m
• average steepness — 74°
• length of complex sections — 875 m (height difference 840 m, steepness 80°) Pitons used: rock — 168, ice — 9, bolt — 9 + 15*, chocks — 19

PASSPORT

I. High-altitude class 2. South-West Pamir 3. Peak Engels 6510 m via the Center of the eastern wall 4. Difficulty category — 6 5. Elevation gain: 1410 m, wall length 900 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 530 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°. 6. Pitons hammered:

Passport

I. Altitude class 2. South-Western Pamir, Kish-ty-Dzhërob gorge 3. Peak Engels 6510 via the "well" on the South face. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference 1160 m, length - 2382 m. 6. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 732 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 75°, including 6B category of difficulty - 84°. 7. Pitons driven: Rock: 176, bolt: 59, chocks: 216, ice: 12.

Central Council of the Spartak Sports Society

Report

on the ascent of Peak Engel'sa via the north-eastern wall

1. Kustovsky A.A.
2. Kletsko K.B.
3. Cherevko V.L.
4. Shalaev G.I.
5. Yakovenko Yu.K.
6. Yakovina V.A. 1964

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. South-West Pamir, Shabo valley.
3. Peak Engels via the north wall (Gaas route, 1974). 2nd ascent in 1976. 3rd ascent.
4. 6B category of difficulty, 2nd ascent.
5. Height difference — 1950 m. (1560 m). Main part height difference — 1150 m (b.sh – ridge). Length — 2305 m. Length of 6A and 6B sections — 365 m. Average steepness:

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974 I. ASCENT CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL 2. ASCENT REGION — south-western Pamir 3. ASCENT ROUTE — peak Engels (6510 m) via the north face from the Piabon valley 4. ASCENT CHARACTERISTICS — Route length — 2470 m, including:

• main wall (from the base of the black bastion to the top of the "tower") — 1435 m
• overhanging part of the wall (red and light quartz bastions) Height difference — (6510–4360 m)