ASCENT TO PIK MARONA VIA THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE (cat. grade 3A) 2729 From the camp located on a flat, gravelly area of the upper modern erosion base of the Issledovateley and Chon-Turasu glaciers, we head towards the NNE rock ridge of Pik Marona, situated between the Chon-Turasu river and the Marona glacier. We cross ridges of old lateral moraines and, after 15 minutes, approach the slope of the ridge at a point where a powerful talus slope descends from under the rocky ridge. To the left remain:

• massive rock outcrops of black-green rock,
• scree slopes of fine gravel stretching from them. We ascend directly up the talus slope to a rock wall, then move:
• first along the slope,
• then along terraces upwards along the wall,
• across fine scree, clay soils, and occasionally easy rock. After 2 hours of ascent, we reach the end of the terrace. This location is easily identifiable by two small caves, and the terrace almost immediately ends.

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To the summit of Pamyati Druzey Peak (4990 m)

Central Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too (41°1′3.31″ N. 77°31′55.82″ E) via the northwestern ridge First ascent Presumably 3A category of difficulty Galimzyanov T.R. + 2 2015

Report

On the Ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) by the Joint Expedition of the Spartak Society and the Kazakh Alpine Club in July-August 1956

1. Description of the Area, Brief Description of Previous Ascent Attempts, and Expedition Objectives

Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) is located in the eastern Tian Shan, in the East Kok-Shaal-Tau range, along the state border between the Soviet Union and the Chinese People's Republic. The section of the range where Peak Pobeda is situated stretches latitudinally and represents a vast glaciated massif - a wall about 15 kilometers long, sharply rising above the surrounding mountains. Even the lowest parts of the wall exceed 6.5 km in height. At the foot of the northern slopes of the wall lies the Zvezdochka Glacier, a major tributary of the Inylchek Glacier. The wall rises above the Zvezdochka Glacier throughout its length by 2.5-3 km. The highest point of the massif, Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m), is located in the middle part of the massif. Here, the ridge is elevated 600-700 m above the rest of the range for about 500-600 m, with no significant changes in height along this section. On the northern slope of the wall, a prominent counterfort extends towards the Zvezdochka Glacier. To the east, the massif is bounded by the sharp and deep Chon-Tareng pass. The pass saddle is limited on the side of Peak Pobeda by a local rise in the ridge (about 6900 m), which we will conditionally refer to as the Eastern Peak of Pobeda. To the northeast of the pass lies Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m), from which a heavily dissected ridge, Ak-Tau, extends westward.

Passport

1. Class of high-altitude technical ascents.
2. Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge
3. Peak Pobeda G. (7439 m) via West peak from per. Dikiy from l. Zvezdochka
4. Complexity category — 5B
5. Height difference — 3039 m, Average steepness of the ridge part of the route — 40 degrees.
6. Pitons driven: Rock anchor pitons 12* 8 ice screws

1.1 General View of Pobeda

Sheet 1. Passport

1. Class - High-altitude
2. Central Tian-Shan, Engilchek valley
3. Peak Pobeda via the West Ridge
4. 5B category of difficulty
5. Elevation gain 3039 m, distance 5.5 km
6. Number of previously driven pitons: 20
7. Team's climbing hours: 24 hours

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical class
2. Central Tian-Shan, Kokmaal-Too ridge
3. Peak Pobeda (Gl.), via the western peak from Zvezdochka glacier, 7439 m
4. 5B cat. diff.
5. Elevation gain – 3439 m, distance – 6000 m
6. Pitons hammered: rock – 2+10², ice – 6+8²
7. Ice hours – 25, days – 4
8. Overnights: I – in a snow cave, 2, 3, 4 – in a tent
9. Team: Nagovitsyna Elena Yulyevna, CMS; Roslyakov Sergey Viktorovich, CMS.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude.
2. Ascent region — Central Tien Shan.
3. Peak, route — Pobeda peak via Vaja-Pshavela pass along the 3rd ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B.
5. Height difference — 3439 m.

• including the wall section — absent.
• Total route length — 20 km.
• Wall section length — absent.

6. Pitons driven: rock 0/0, ice 0/0, chocks 0/0, bolted 0/0.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
2. Peak name: Peak Pobeda, route name — Pobeda Main via v. Vazi Pshaveli with pass. Diky
3. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty. Route character: combined
4. Route height difference: 3000 m Route length: Section length: Average steepness of the main route part:
5. "Hooks" left on the route: total; including pitons.

Peak Propeller 4551

Propeller is the end point of a gentle snowy ridge trending southeast, branching off the southwestern part of the Cornice peak. It drops to the Chon-Turasu glacier with a sheer rock wall. The ascent is done from Moldova Pass and takes one day.

16 Peaks Druzhba and Promezhutochny 4450

The peaks are located on the main ridge and close the Nalivkin cirque. Peak Druzhba is a rise in a sharp ridge: rocky to the east and icy with cornices to the west; Peak Promezhutochny is a rise on this icy ridge. The ridge drops to Nalivkin Glacier with a smooth 70-degree ice wall, and to the south with a snowy-icy slope; the last few meters before the summit have the same steepness. The peaks are small snow-covered areas. To the east of Druzhba's summit area are rock "feathers" of equal height. The ascents are done from Ototaş Glacier. After ascending to K-3 Pass (in the upper Ototaş Glacier) via steep, usually ice-covered rocks, one comes to Promezhutochny Peak. Then, along the ridge with huge cornices, one moves toward Druzhba Peak. Along the way, it is necessary to drive in 6-8 ice screws because the upper part of the ridge reaches a steepness of 60°.

54 Peaks 40-let Oktyabrya and Prof. Goralik

Both peaks are located in a lateral spur between the valleys of Chon-Turasu and Kichine-Turasu rivers. Peak 40 let Oktyabrya is a small rocky peak; the slope facing Marona Glacier is rocky and talus; the one facing Kichine-Turasu Glacier is snowy and icy. Prof. Goralik Peak is a low but beautiful rocky tower, the upper plane of which is covered with ice; the glacier flows down to the northeast; the slopes of the peak are talus with frequent rock outcrops. The ascents can be done from either valley: by ascending to the saddle between the peaks along the ridge, one reaches the summit.

¹

1. DIFFICULT ROCK FORMATIONS
2. "КО­НЕК" (the "horse" or ridge)
3. SHELF ("POLKA")