PASSPORT

High-altitude technical class
Central Tian-Shan, Kokmaal-Too ridge
Peak Pobeda (Gl.), via the western peak from Zvezdochka glacier, 7439 m
5B cat. diff.
Elevation gain – 3439 m, distance – 6000 m
Pitons hammered: rock – 2+10², ice – 6+8²
Ice hours – 25, days – 4
Overnights: I – in a snow cave, 2, 3, 4 – in a tent
Team: Nagovitsyna Elena Yulyevna, CMS; Roslyakov Sergey Viktorovich, CMS.
Started the route – August 16, 1997, summit – August 19, 1997, returned – August 21, 1997
Organization – Chelyabinsk city.

General photograph of Peak Pobeda

Ascent route
Bivouacs

Tactical actions of the team

The ascent took place from August 16 to August 21, 1997. On August 16 at 6:00 the team started the route from the camp on Zvezdochka glacier (4400 m).

On the route section to Dikiy pass, the most dangerous and alpine section is the broken icefall with chaotic jumble of ice blocks and crevasses. Passage through the icefall is facilitated by:

four rope railings,
hung by guides of the Kazakh International Camp,
rope-team movement along the railings,
belay via ice screws.

Further movement to Dikiy pass and then along the northern edge to 5800 m – along snow-ice slopes of varying steepness – is not technically difficult. The only danger is crevasses covered with snow. The rope-team moves simultaneously.

At 14:00 they reached 5800 m. Together with a descending member of the Tashkent group, a snow cave was dug.

On August 17, 1997, departure at 8:00. The weather is sunny, but a strong wind is blowing. From 5900 m, a rocky ridge section begins – 700 m.

Passage of individual complex rock sections is facilitated by remnants of old rope railings, refurbished this season. Rope-team movement:

is alternating or simultaneous,
belay via pitons,
individual elements of rock relief.

At 16:00, stop for the night on a small snow shelf 100 m below the Western peak.

On August 18, 1997, departure at 9:00. Along a steep snowy slope – ascent to the western peak (6918 m), then movement along the western ridge to the pre-summit rise (7000 m).

The western ridge leading to the summit of Peak Pobeda (Gl.) is not technically difficult, but there are closed crevasses, and snow cornices on the edge of the ridge. The main obstacle when moving along the ridge is a strong gusty wind. Movement is simultaneous.

Stop at bivouac (7000 m) at 14:00, overnight stay in a tent protected from the wind by snow walls. At the 7000 m bivouac, it is crowded: a pair from Bishkek (photo # 1), a team from Georgia, a group from Tashkent heading down, a group from Minsk, descending from the summit, shares fresh impressions about the state of the route and goes along the ridge under Peak Vazhi Pshavela.

On August 19, 1997, at 9:30, departure on the route. The weather is sunny, but the wind is very strong, especially on the northern side of the ridge, where it reaches hurricane force. If possible, we move along the southern side of the ridge.

If it is necessary to go to the northern side of the ridge, the movement becomes immediately very difficult, but there are not many such sections on the way to the summit. Movement is simultaneous (photo # 2/3); in a dangerous place on a snow "knife" – alternating, belay via ice axe.

At 13:30 on the summit. From the control tour, we removed a note from an international pair from Bishkek who ascended before us. We take photographs from the summit to the north and south towards China (photo # 456).

Descent from the summit along the ascent route and overnight stay in the same camp (7000 m).

On August 22-23, descent along the ascent route to the base camp on the moraine of South Inylchek glacier under Peak Gorky.

There were no significant deviations from the tactical plan. Communication with the base camp was carried out via Motorola radio. There were no failures or injuries during the ascent and descent.

Photo # 1. Bivouac at 7000 m with Bishkek.