Ascent Passport

Ascent class — high-altitude.
Ascent region — Central Tien Shan.
Peak, route — Pobeda peak via Vaja-Pshavela pass along the 3rd ridge.
Proposed category of difficulty — 5B.
Height difference — 3439 m.

including the wall section — absent.
Total route length — 20 km.
Wall section length — absent.

Pitons driven: rock 0/0, ice 0/0, chocks 0/0, bolted 0/0.
Number of travel hours/days: 95/4.
Overnights:
- 1st — snow cave at an altitude of 5200 m,
- 2nd — a platform cut out on a snow-ice slope at an altitude of 6900 m,
- 3rd — snow cave at an altitude of 6950 m.
Leader: Igor N. Shapovalenko, Candidate Master of Sports, Vladivostok, Lermontova St. 37 — 67.

Team members: Alexander V. Krasnolutsky, 1st category, Nakhodka, Michurina St. 12 — 25.

Coach: Igor N. Shapovalenko, Candidate Master of Sports.
Departure to the route: August 16, 1999.

Summit: August 18, 1999. Return: August 19, 1999.

Organization name: Primorsky Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing, Vladivostok, Saratovskaya St. 13 — 51, phone (4232) 51-19-25.

Red — route taken by the team.
Yellow — invisible part of the route.
Green — "dollar" route.
Blue — Abalakov's route.
Orange — Zhuravlev's route.

Date of survey — August 7, 1999.

Tactical Actions of the Team

After exiting the base camp, while crossing the Yuzhnyy Engilchek glacier, they moved in a rope team. Further, they moved unroped along the right moraine of Zvezdochka glacier — to the first "wave" of the glacier. Overcoming the first and second "waves" of Zvezdochka glacier, they moved roped from left to right, approaching the almost vertical wall of the glacier descending from Dikiy pass. They ascended via previously fixed ropes to the gentle body of the glacier and further in a rope team to Dikiy pass and a snow cave located 200 m higher.

Overnight stay. Early morning departure, 600 m ascent to the first rocks. Further, they overcame three RPDs (Roped Pairs in Difficulty) of rocks:

5800 – 6000
6100 – 6400
6600 – 6900

RPDs alternated with snowfields of varying steepness. Ascent was done using free climbing and previously fixed ropes. Overnight stay above the last rock belt in a tent.

Early morning departure, ascent to Vaja-Pshavela pass, and traverse along the ridge towards Pobeda peak to a snow cave. There, bivouac equipment was left, and they took with them:

warm clothing
rope
headlamps
food
drink

Further movement continued along the western ridge, sticking to the Chinese side due to overhanging snow cornices. The summit section began with a steep snow ascent under the rocks, which were overcome using free climbing. Further, sometimes approaching the ridge and sometimes moving away depending on the size of the cornices, they approached a large triangular gendarme. From it, exactly along the ridge, they overcame a steep section of the path. Further, the slope flattened, and small undulations led to the summit. The cairn was located on a rocky platform slightly below the highest point.

Descent was done via the ascent route, overnight stay in a snow cave where bivouac equipment was left. The next day — continued descent with return to the base camp.

Out of three overnights on the mountain:

Two were spent in already dug snow caves located on safe, gentle slopes, excluding avalanche paths, rockfall, and human fall.
Overnight stay in a tent on a snow slope also did not pose a threat to life, as it was located above the rocks on a gentle slope and was deeply dug in for wind protection.

There were no "working" falls or injuries. The weather during the entire ascent was satisfactory.