Dalar

up the North-East wall. Team of “Trud” Sports Society Team leader: Master of Sports of the USSR Snesarev A. A. Team captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Stepanov V. V. The summit of “Dalar”, view from the North

Brief sports characteristic of Dalar peak

The year of the beginning of the development of the Gvandra region, where the Dalar peak is located, should be considered 1936, but already in 1937 most of the peaks in this region were conquered.

Dalar via NE wall, cat. 5B

I. Brief Geographical Description

The Dalar peak, with an elevation of 3981 meters above sea level, is located in the western part of the Central Uplift of the Main Ridge, southwest of the Elbrus peak (Gvandra area, Kichkinokol arch).

II. Sporting Characteristics of the Route and Its Exploration

Dalar is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Caucasus. The slightly northward-leaning rocky pyramid has long attracted the attention of mountaineers. The northeast wall, rising to almost 4000 meters, seemed particularly challenging yet interesting. The sporty exploration of the walls began in 1956 when a group led by N.M. Semenov first traversed the NE wall up to the base of the tower and then deviated left from the route onto the relatively simple eastern ridge. In 1962, a group from the "Trud" sports society, led by V.V. Stepanov, repeated this path (up to the tower) and then straightened it, deviating from the original route in the last upper part (ascending directly up the tower to the summit). See photo #1. In 1964, a group of Spartakovites led by V.D. Kavunenko followed Stepanov's path. Tactical Plan and Route Description to Dalar Peak via the Northeast Wall, Cat. 5B (Combined) Photo #1

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Gvandra region
3. Peak Dalar, 3979 m
4. Route — via the left part of the north-eastern wall of the bastion, first ascent, proposed 6A category of difficulty
5. Route elevation gain — 1430 m, route length — 1740 m, average slope — 68°, bastion wall elevation gain — 760 m, bastion wall length — 780 m, average slope — 80°. section lengths
   • category 5 — 800 m
   • category 6 — 320 m

27

USSR Climbing Federation

XXXIV USSR Climbing Championship, Rock Climbing Category

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Western Caucasus, from Nakhar pass to Chipperaza pass 3. Mt. Dalar, right part of the North Face (V. Shopin route) 4. Category 5B difficulty, third ascent 5. Route elevation gain — 760 m, route length — 1060 m, wall elevation gain — 500 m, wall length — 640 m, length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 370+280=650 m. Average steepness of the wall — 70° (3270–3720 m) 6. Pitons driven: rock bolt anchors 149/24 (0+7)/(–87/11) 7. Team's walking hours — 28 and days — 2. 8. Joint snow overnight stay.

Ascent Passport

I. Rock climbing category 2. Caucasus. From Nakhar pass to Chipperazau pass. 3. Dalar peak (3979 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder. 4. Difficulty category - 5B (third ascent of the route) 5. Route characteristics: height difference R0–R15 - 700 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 610 m, including 400 m on the shoulder wall R0–R12, average steepness of the shoulder wall R0–R12 - 81°. 6. Pitons hammered: for rock protection (including chocks) 99(35), for creating artificial support points 10(4), ice screws (on descent) - (4), bolt pitons - - 7. Total climbing hours - 23 hours 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two good bivouacs in a tent.

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE VOLGA AND URAL FEDERAL DISTRICTS IN ALPINISM TECHNICAL AND ALTITUDE CLASS

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT DALAR (3988 m) VIA THE NORTH-EAST FACE OF THE EASTERN SHOULDER, CATEGORY 5B COMPLEXITY (POROKHNI YU.I. ROUTE) BY THE TEAM FROM SAMARA REGION AND PERM TERRITORY FOR THE PERIOD FROM AUGUST 16 TO 17, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Zankina Daria Viktorovna, 1st sports rank

ST. PETERSBURG ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS HIGH-TECHNICAL CLASS 2024

Report on the ascent of Dalar peak (3988 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder (Yu. Porokhnya Route, 1978), 5B cat. diff., combined. July 29, 2024 – July 31, 2024.

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Danil A. Kadyrmaev, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, sports rank of participants	Mikhail D. Marakuev, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of coach, sports rank	O.A. Yakimenko MS, P.Yu. Fominykh CMS
1.4	Organization	St. Petersburg Alpine Federation, a/c "Gornyak", a/c "Voenmekh"

Ascent Certificate

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Region — Western Caucasus, Gvandra region.
3. Peak DALAR, 3979 m, via the north-eastern wall of the bastion.
4. Category of difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: total — 1200 m, bastion — 780 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 850 m, average steepness of the bastion — 76° (2780–3560 m), sections with 6 category difficulty — 85° (3010–3050 m).
6. Pitons hammered: | Type | Rock | Bolt | Chock | Ice | | :--------------- | :--- | :--- | :---- | :--- |

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks