PASSPORT

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge.
3. "Ullutau" massif, via the rock islands of the Northern wall and the Western ridge (Maltsev's route), category 5B.
4. Elevation gain: 717 m length: 935 m, length of sections: 500 m, category 5, average steepness of the main part of the route 65°.
5. Pitons driven: rock: 19/0; bolt: 0+1x/0; chocks: 5/0; ice screws: 137/0.
6. Team's travel hours: 13.5 hours.
7. Overnights: 1st on the ridge on a site in a tent, 2nd on the ridge on a site in a tent.

8-2.4.1.1385 Moscow Region Climbing Championship 2008 (Technical Class) REPORT on the ascent of the Ullutau peak by the team from Shchelkovo via the north wall couloir, category 5B (first ascent)

1. Region — Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge; KMGV code 2.4.1.
2. Peak Ullutau-chana (Main) — 4207 m via the North Wall couloir
3. Proposed category — 5B; first ascent.
4. Route type — ice and snow climb.
5. Height difference — 910 m.
6. Route length — 1100 m.
7. Length of category 5 section — 210 m; category 6 section — 45 m.
8. Average slope — 55°.

Ascent Passport.

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Adyrsu gorge, Main Caucasus Range, section according to KMGV – 2.4.1
2. Peak Ullutau Glavnaya, 4207 m, via the North face (route by V. Abalakov).
3. Complexity category: 5B.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: (from "Abalakov's" bivouacs at the start of the route to the summit) — 700 m (approx.). Route length – 1000 m. Length of sections with V difficulty category – 180 m, VI difficulty category – 40 m. Average steepness:
   • key sections — 80°;

The summit of Ullu-Tau (4207 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range and closes the Adyr-Su gorge. The summit is an array located in the East-West direction and has three not clearly defined peaks: Eastern, Main, and Western. The highest point of the massif is the Main peak of Ullu-Tau. To the north, the massif drops off with a steep wall with significant glaciation. The height difference is over 1200 m. All technically complex routes on the massif pass along the northern walls and are combined. Eight routes of category 5B have been laid on the massif (all along the northern walls). For the ascent, the group chose a new route through a steep rocky outcrop located between the rocky bastions of the Eastern and Main peaks. From the "Dzhailyk" alpine camp, past the "Ullu-Tau" alpine camp, up the gorge for 3 hours to the moraine under the northern wall of Ullu-Tau Main ("Central bivouac").

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route

Ullutau Western — Eastern via the northwestern wall (traverse), combined, 5A

Route description:

Following the standard path via "Chegetskie nochyovki" we move towards Garvash Pass, pass the rocky outcrop "Khitsan", cross the glacier covered with avalanche debris and come out under the rock wall at the base of the "board". The exit to the rock wall is done in the lower part via a simple couloir, 60 m long. There is a protected area at the top of the couloir, suitable for the group to gather. The next part (one rope length) goes straight up the complex rocks, requiring the use of piton belay. Then we overcome simple rocks and come out to the lower part of the "board". There is a "stop for the night" here. The ascent from the "stop for the night" along the "board" to the ridge is 700–800 m and is done diagonally up to the left along the snow-ice slope in the direction of the saddle on the ridge. The steepness of the "board" is:

• in the lower part — 30°,
• in the upper part — up to 55°. The movement is carried out with piton belay. We come out onto the ridge and move along it to the "diamond", which is overcome head-on. The further path to the main summit lies along the destroyed ridge. There are areas for overnight stay along the way.

The climbing area is the Central Caucasus — a spur of the Adyrsky ridge. The peak is Khimik. Difficulty category — 88.45. The height of the peak is 3935 m Route characteristics:

• Altitude difference — 1000 m
• Length of sections 5–6 km — 185 m
• Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 68°
• Number of pitons hammered, number of placements used: rock placements — 71, chocks — 15
• Total number of climbing hours without approaches and descent — 14 Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
• 1st — lower kichkidarskie bivouacs, sandy grounds

Report

On the first ascent to v. Khimik (3935 m) via the inner corner of the left part of the North-Eastern wall of the Northern ridge in the period from July 16 to 18, 2009 by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of:

• Nikolaev A.V. – leader
• Kabaev R.G. – participant
• Starykh A.N. – participant AUSB "Ullutau" 2009

Addresses

AUSB "Ullutau" 361602, KBR, Nalchik, Tel. 8-8662-77-09-87 LEADER

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent classification: technical. 2. Ascent area: (in accordance with KTMVG) Caucasus, from Chipperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass. 3. Peak, its height and route: Chegem, 4461 m, via the Northwest wall of the Northeast ridge. 4. Difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1250 m, average slope of the wall directly 75-80 degrees, average slope of the ascent route 50-55 degrees. Length of sections: 1st category difficulty — 0 m, 2nd category difficulty — 400 m, 3rd category difficulty — 570 m, 4th category difficulty — 330 m, 5th category difficulty — 150 m, 6th category difficulty — 80 m. 6. Pitons hammered in: For belaying: - Rock: 48

Ascent Record

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Chegem valley, Adyr ridge, classified under KMGV as 2.4.1
2. Peak Chegem, 4461 m, ascent via the NE wall of the NE ridge (route by V. Forostyan).
3. Route category: 6A.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain: approximately 1160 m. Route length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 248 m, with 6th category difficulty: 108 m. Average steepness:
   • wall section: 92°;

PASSPORT

1. Class — technical;
2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range;
3. Peak Shurovskogo 4295 m, via the Western wall through "Surok";
4. Cat. diff. — 5B;
5. Height difference — 959 m. Route length — 1804 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 375 m; Average steepness 64°, steepness of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 72°.
6. Pitons driven | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolts | | :---------: | :----: | :----: |