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A description of a technical 5B category climb to the summit of Uilpata (4646 m) via the South Ridge in the Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area, ridge — CAUCASUS, Tsey ridge.
  3. Peak UILPATA, 4646 m, via the South ridge.
  4. Difficulty category — 5B.
  5. Length — 1409 m.
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Description of the first ascent to the summit Urskhok Western via the Western ridge, category 2B complexity.

Ascent Passport.

  1. Caucasus. Rocky Ridge. Kionsky massif. Section number in Classification 2.7.
  2. Urs­hoch Zap. (3229 m) — from the South, along the Western ridge.
  3. Proposed 2B cat. diff., first ascent.
  4. Route character — rocky.
  5. Route height difference — 450 m (by GPS). Total route length — about 1200 m. Length of sections with 3–4 cat. diff. — 50 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 70°. Average route steepness — 30°.
  6. Hooks left on the route — none.
  7. Walking hours — 6; days — 1.
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Description of the ascent route to Tsakhfedor peak (4,068 m) in the Caucasus via the southern slope, complexity category 2A, rocky terrain.

Ascent Passport

  1. Caucasus. Saudor ridge. Section number in the Classification is 2.7.
  2. Tsakhfedor peak (4068 m) from the South. Peak coordinates: 42°50′18.38″ N; 43°45′51.50″ E.
  3. Proposed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route character — rocky.
  5. Route elevation gain — 200 m. Total route length — 300 m. Length of sections 3–4 category of difficulty — 50 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 65°. Average steepness of the route — 35°.
  6. Pitons left on the route — none.
  7. Trekking hours — 5; days — 1.
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Description of the route to Cherevichenko Peak from the Tsey valley with information on approaches, category of difficulty, and recommendations for passage.

Peak Cherevichenko - route description.

  1. Approaches. From Vladikavkaz, take a vehicle to Tsey valley, then to Verkhniy Tsey village, after which move along the dirt road leading to the repeater. Before the last turn of the road directly to the repeater - there is a fork, the left branch goes off, with a spring as a landmark. Turn left, move another 2-3 km to the end of the road leading to the abandoned adit. A 4WD vehicle can ascend almost to the place where the road is blocked by a stone (there is a turnaround area). From there, move another 20 minutes along the road to the adit. Below the adit, a wide shelf is cut into the ground, where several tents can easily fit. There is water directly in the adit.

2) Route.

From the adit, move along a faintly expressed ridge (grassland, category 2 rocks) to the NE ridge of Peak Cherevichenko. Having reached the ridge, move southwest along the ridge line, in the direction of Pik Sadon. To Pik Sadon - category 2-3 rocks.

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A description of the route to Cherevichenko Peak from the Tsey valley with details of approaches, ascents, and recommendations.

Peak Cherevichenko — route description.

  1. Approaches. From Vladikavkaz, take a vehicle to Tsey valley, then to Verkhniy Tsey village, after which move along the dirt road leading to the repeater. Before the last turn of the road directly to the repeater — there is a fork, to the left a branch goes off, with a spring as a landmark. Turn left, move another 2–3 km to the end of the road leading to the abandoned adit.
  • All-wheel drive vehicle can ascend almost to the place where the road is blocked by a stone (there is a turnaround area)
  • From there, another 20 minutes moving along the road to the adit
  • Below the adit, a wide shelf is cut into the ground, where several
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Description of the 2A category complexity route to the summit of Arkhon Severny (3571 m) in the Caucasus with a detailed topographic description and recommendations for passage.

Ascent Passport

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. Caucasus, Bokovoy Range, Arkhon massif.
  3. Arkhon Severny (3571 m); from the West via the North-East ridge.
  4. Proposed — 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain: 500 m. Length about 1 km. Average slope on the route is about 30°.
  6. Pitons hammered: rock, chocks. 5/0 7/0 Left on the route: rock – 2 (for descent)
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Report on the first ascent of Peak Atarbek Tedeev via the North-West Buttress, Cat. 1B diff.

Report on the first ascent of Pik Atarbeka Tedeeva, 3239 m via the Northwest Counterfort

Approximately — 1B category of difficulty. Completed by a group of climbers from the Mountain Sports Federation of the Republic of South Ossetia on August 20, 2015, led by Tedeev Tamerlan Taimurazovich. Address: Republic of South Ossetia, Tskhinval, A. Dzhioev Avenue, 114, Tedeev_t@mail.ru +79284848861

Ascent Passport

  1. Caucasus, section number in the classifier 2.8:, south of the Main Caucasian Range, between the Tsidon river gorge to the west and the Djodzhora river gorge to the east.
  2. Pik Atarbeka Tedeeva (3239 m), via the Northwest Counterfort.
  3. Assumed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route character — rocky.
  5. Route height difference is about 300 m.
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Description of a new 3A category route through the left part of the West face of the summit Dashtsar (2918 m) in the Caucasus, climbed by a group of mountaineers led by S.V. Egorin in 2010.

Ascent Passport

  1. Caucasus, Skalisty Range, Classification section number 2.8.
  2. Dashtsar (2918 m) — via the left part of the West wall.
  3. Proposed category: 3A, first ascent.
  4. Route type — rock.
  5. Route height difference — 350 m (from point R0). Total route length — 700 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 8 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 95°. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 60°.
  6. Pitons left on the route — none. Pitons used on the route — 12. Chocks used on the route — 12.
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Description of a new Category 3B route on the South Face of Dashtsar peak (2918 m) in the Caucasus, including details of the ascent and recommendations.

Ascent Passport

  1. Caucasus, Rock Ridge, Classification section number 2.8.
  2. Dashtsar (2918 m) – via the South face.
  3. Proposed category: 3B, first ascent.
  4. Route type — rock climbing.
  5. Route elevation gain — 320 m (from point R0). Total route length — 580 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 20 m. Crux pitch steepness — up to 95°. Average steepness of the wall section — 70°.
  6. Pitons left on the route — 3. Pitons used on the route — 9. Chocks used on the route — 15.
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Description of the traverse of the peaks Kilar "Fizkulturnik" — Kayarta-Bashi 3A category of complexity, made in 1961 by a group of climbers.

2.4.1748

I. DESCRIPTION OF THE TRAVERSE OF THE PEAKS PIK KILAR "FIZKULTURNIC STALIN" - KAYARTA-BASHI 3A cat. diff. The first ascent of the route was made on May 14, 1961, by a group of climbers from Tyrnyauz, consisting of:

  1. Shamaev I.A. - leader
  2. Fatakhov Kh.A.
  3. Drobot S.Yu. The group assessed the route to Pik Kilar from the North Karata-Mu glacier (via the "Shakhtyor" pass) as 1B cat. diff.

Route Description

Day 1 - approach. From Tyrnyauz, ascend the gorge to the fork of the Sakashil-Su and Kayarta-Su rivers; before descending to the suspension bridge over the Kayarta-Su, turn right-up along a well-developed pack trail - into the Kayarta-Su gorge. After 0.5 hours and 40 minutes of walking, the trail leads to a small clearing with tall grass and a large stone, and soon exits to meadows near the summer pastures. From the clearing, another 200-300 meters of trail goes through the forest, then exits to meadows, onto a small grassy ridge (with an irrigation ditch along it). Further along the trail, along a stream, through meadows, ascending low grassy hills, we approach the river. Passing small clearings with a stream, we ascend along the cliff above the riverbank and exit to the point where the gorge turns. The gorge turns almost 90° to the left (southeast). Before reaching the river bend, at the beginning of a steep, overgrown with rhododendrons cape on the opposite bank, cross the river where a convenient ascent to the cape is visible. Ascending to the cape, the trail goes along a wide terrace along the high, steep riverbank. Overcoming a small stony ridge, we descend to a large grassy area with a stream.

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