Fig. 45a

Manshuk Mametova Peak 2A cat. via 3rd slope from Mametova Glacier

Route description. From the Alpengrad site, take the trail to Manshuk-Mametova Glacier. Move along it towards the saddle between Manshuk-Mametova and Antikainen peaks under the ice wall. Organize rope teams after crossing the even part of the glacier. At the beginning of the ascent, the route goes along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of up to 35° (rope protection is set up). Then, traverse left towards the foot of the ice-snow forehead. To overcome the forehead, it is necessary to set up rope protection, sometimes piton belay. Further, navigating through crevices, reach the saddle. When moving in the upper part of the glacier, use piton belay. From the saddle, ascend via a couloir along small scree, then along snow or ice. When moving in the couloir, stick to the left side. In case of ice exposure in its upper part, set up rope protection. The couloir leads to moderate-difficulty rocks. From there, continue to a steep snow patch, the passage of which requires thorough belay and great caution (the massif of the peak drops off towards Manshuk-Mametova Glacier with a 300-meter wall). When ascending with large groups, from the exit from the couloir to the summit, it is necessary to set up rope protection (2 ropes). A cairn with a note is located in the northern part of the summit. Descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9-10 hours.

Recommendations:

• 1. Number of participants: 12-14 people.

2. Initial bivouac: Alpengrad.
3. Departure from bivouac at 5:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope 2 × 30 m
• rock pitons: 4-5 pcs.
• ice screws: 4-6 pcs.

Mayakovskogo 4A c.t. via the Eastern Wall buttress (Aleksashina)

Route description. Descending from the initial bivouac on the Ordzhonikidze Pass to the Ordzhonikidze East Glacier, traverse along the wall of Mayakovskogo peak. Approximately from its midpoint, a ridge extends southwards, behind which the Eastern Wall with grey-black streaks rises. There's a noticeable saddle in the ridge from where the route begins. The saddle is prominent on the bright red rocks of the ridge. To the right of it, the rocks are reddish, and to the left, they are black, with a stepped structure. This is the first control point. The route proceeds as follows:

• From the saddle, ascend directly up the black, then grey rocks towards a wall with a cleft (70–80 m).
• Reach a large ledge (piton belay, 4 pitons).
• Near the wall, there's a large boulder — here, for belaying while moving in the chimney; there are cracks for piton belay.
• From here, turn left onto a small ledge behind a rock outcrop.
• Move slightly downwards, then along a wide ledge to the junction point of the routes on the southeast and east walls of Mayakovskogo peak (piton belay).
• The entire group can assemble here. The final part of the route is described in the previous section. The ascent takes 13–14 hours. Descent is from the southern side to the Ordzhonikidze Pass. This route was first laid by a group of climbers from the "Kok Bastau" alpine camp under the leadership of L. Aleksashin in 1956.

Mayakovsky 4A cat. via South-Eastern wall (Savukhin's route)

Route description. The approach to the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky is through Ordzhonikidze or Antikainen passes. Special attention should be paid to the descent from Antikainen pass down a steep snowy slope. When moving, strictly stick to the middle of the slope (rockfall). Go around the massif of Antikainen peak and Отечественной Войны peak, reach the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky. Initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Eastern Ordzhonikidze glacier. To study the rockfall regime, spend two days under the south-eastern wall. Start the ascent very early. The ascent to the wall is via easy rocks, alternating with talus. Then there is a section of slabs with a steepness of 25–30° (first control point), which lead directly to the foot of the south-eastern wall of the peak. At the first stage, move along a vaguely expressed crevice, the walls of which are monolithic, with a steepness of 75–80°. The first climber has to ascend to the full length of the rope, extremely cautiously, deviating slightly to the right. Only after 30 m, on a small ledge, above which there is a 3–4-meter wall, is there a crack (piton belay). Only one person can be taken to the platform.

walls up to 50 m. Piton insurance. After the wall, when exiting to the ridge, there is a place for the second overnight stay and the 2nd control tour. Further, bypassing a small gendarme on its right side. Then along a snowy-ice section to a rocky wall (3rd tour), which is overcome head-on, with traversing to the left. Then along a slope with a steepness of up to 60–65°, covered with flow ice, exit to a gentle snowy site and from it move to a rocky wall, which is traversed to the left. After the wall, approach a small steep couloir covered with flow ice. Movement along the couloir:

• starts on the right upwards,
• then deviates to the left side. After exiting the couloir - descent into a twenty-meter crevice, behind it exit to a steep ice section. After this section - ascent upwards along a steep icy scree. Behind the scree - approach to a rocky monolithic wall. Start climbing it with a traverse to the left. Exit to a narrow chute, along which climb 40 m. Piton insurance. In the upper part, when exiting, apply a "live" ladder. Caution: rocks are heavily destroyed.

Muztau (4556 m)

Ascent from the Toguзак Glacier along the northern edge, route 2А category of complexity (fig. 6). The Muztau peak is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. To the east of it, separated by a vast firn plateau, rises the peak Sovetsky Kazakhstan, and to the south-west, also behind a large firn plateau, is the peak 10 let Kazakhskoy SSR. From the initial bivouac on the terminal moraine of the Toguзак Glacier - exit to its left branch. The tongue of the glacier and the glacier itself are not steep. Above the place where the right and left branches of the glacier merge, there are transverse crevices. Here, rope up and go to the foot of the northern edge of Muztau. Further ascent along this edge. From the bivouac - 1.5-2 hours of walking. The further path is visible from

Тraverse of Muruntau - Toguzak with ascent to Toguzak, category 2B route. The beginning of the route description is given in the section on ascending Muruntau peak. From Muruntau peak, the path goes along the southwest ridge to the saddle between Muruntau and Toguzak peaks. Initially, there is a descent with a height loss of 250-300 m. The ridge is snowy, with rocks protruding in some places, including a significant gendarme (bypassed to the left). The ridge has cornices hanging to the east. To the west, the ridge drops steeply for about four hundred meters. Careful belaying is necessary. On the saddle itself, there is a gendarme that is tackled head-on. After the gendarme, there is an ascent along the northeast ridge of Toguzak peak. The ridge is mostly icy and steep. At the beginning of the ridge, proceed for 200 m, then deviate to the east and, with step-cutting, overcome the remaining section to the sub-summit, which is connected to the summit by a short ridge. Toguzak peak is a narrow ridge rising several meters above the sub-summit. Cairns are built on the sub-summit and the summit. From Muruntau peak to Toguzak peak, it takes 3-3.5 hours. Descent is done along the ridge going west from the summit. The descent route is described in the ascent to Toguzak peak.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants - no more than 10 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the right moraine of Toguzak glacier.
3. Departure from the initial bivouac at 4:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main ropes; b) 3-4 rock pitons; c) 2 hammers.

Northern Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Oktyabrionok

via the central bastion of the NW edge 4A cat. diff.

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrionok 3650 m, via the right part of the Western edge
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.

Ascent from the Salanov Glacier, route 2B cat. diff. (fig. 27). The peak Salanov is located in the Aktau spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the upper reaches of the Salanov Glacier. Dmitry Salanov was one of the first climbers in Kazakhstan and died during the Great Patriotic War. From the bivouac site on the Shokalsky Glacier moraine, the ascent begins along the tongue of the Salanov Glacier and further along the glacier on the left side to the saddle between the peaks Chekist and Salanov Peak. The saddle is visible from the glacier. The ascent to the saddle should be done via a wide couloir, initially not clearly defined. The bottom of the couloir is covered with snow in the first half of summer and later filled with a gentle scree. Ascent:

• from the overnight stay at Zelyonaya Polyana - up to 2.5 hours.
• from the overnight stay on the Shokalsky Glacier moraine - about 2 hours. There is a cairn on the saddle. The ascent from the saddle is through a "window" to the right of the direction of travel. Belaying is required. Further along the snowfield, bypassing a series of small rock outcrops on the left. Belaying via ice axe. The subsequent path along the ridge is blocked by 4 gendarmes:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: winter
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Adyr-Su gorge
3. Peak, route: Ullu-Tau /Main/ via NNW wall / V. Li route /
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Height difference:
   • wall section: 810 m
   • total route length: 1583 m
   • wall section length: 983 m