Report on the First Ascent

Jharlam

Via the right buttress and shelves of the Southeast wall Bogdanov A.V. Estimated difficulty: 2A 2023 ASCENT PASSPORT

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT BASHNYA 2930 m VIA THE SW COULoir, CAT. DIFF. 1B by the GSK Upravlenie alpinistskikh lagerei team from April 26 to 26, 2024

I. Climbing Passport

1. Ascent class
2. Climbing area
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Estimated difficulty category
5. Route characteristics
6. Number of pitons driven
7. Number of travel hours
8. Number of overnight stays
9. Names of team leader and participants, their sports qualification
10. Team coach

ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: №2.9 (East Caucasus, Bogossky Ridge)
3. Peak, its height and route: Addala-Shukhgelmeэр East, 3970 m, via the northern counterfort
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 770 m, average steepness — 50°, section duration: R1–500 m, R2–250 m, R3–250 m, R4–220 m, R5–120 m
6. Number of driven pitons:
   • rock: 3
   • ice: 1
   • bolt: –

Ascent Passport. I. Route is combined (K) 2. 2.96 mountains of Dagestan (East. Caucasus) 3. Ascent to the peak Babaku, 3997 m via ridge 10 4. Presumed category of difficulty — 1B 5. Route characteristics: — length — 900 m — total elevation gain — 790 m — average steepness — 40° 6. Pitons were not used 7. The route was completed without intermediate bivouacs

Ascent Log

1. Category of first ascents.
2. Region 2.10. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Babaku ridge.
3. Babaku, 3997 m, via the North Edge, rock route.
4. Category 4B complexity, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 500 m, average steepness of the edge 45°, length 1300 m, section lengths: 1—800 m, 2—85 m, 4—45 m, 5—85 m, including climbing with artificial aids (ITOs): A1–7 m, A2–16 m.
6. Used: placement elements: 37/13 rock pitons: 16/2 outcrops: 6

1. Climbing Passport
   1. Climb category: technical
   2. Climbing area, ridge: № 2–9–а, Dagestan mountains, Greater Caucasus Range.
   3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Bazardyuzi, 4466 m, via the Eastern edge of the Northern ridge.
   4. Proposed category of difficulty: 4A category, combined.
   5. Route characteristics: а) elevation gain 1076 m. б) route length 1950 m, including: * category I 495 m. * category II 850 m.

Climbing Area: Eastern Caucasus, Bishiney Ridge, Charodinsky District, Dagestan ASSR.

MOUNT BISHINEY (4106 m), (Vishiney, 4043 m) combined route via the northern ridge, category 2A difficulty.

Group Composition:

leader — Basriev Zakir A. — Candidate Master of Sports, participants:

• Akhmedkhanov Kamil E. — 2nd sports category
• Pashuk Evgeny G. — 3rd sports category
• Leonov Petr G.
• Kozorezov Evgeny F.
• Nikhyaev Ruslan K.

Ascent Passport.

1. First ascent category.
2. Region 2.10., Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Shalib ridge.
3. Bodonai 4049 m, via the Northeast wall, combined route.
4. 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 400 m, average steepness 50 °, length 730 m, by sections: 1 – 270 m, 2 – 150 m, 3 – 130 m, 4 – 120 m, 5 – 50 m, 6 – 10 m, of which climbing with aid: A2 – 10 m.
6. Used: 21/8 chocks, 18/2 rock pitons, 3 "carrot" ice screws, 1 rock protrusion; 3 rock pitons left on the route (at points 6, 8 (control cairn), 10).
7. Climbing hours: 5 hours.
8. Overnight at the moraine pocket (3500 m) in the NE cirque, in the upper reaches of the Bodonai river.
9. Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich — Candidate Master of Sports

Report on the First Ascent

Dzharlam

Via the South-West Tower Wall "Raz-dva-tri" Bogdanov A.V. 3B 2022

Climbing Passport