Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via N.N.E. wall by Ovcharov's path.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m; average steepness — 65°; length of sections: 1st diff. cat. — 40 m, 3rd-4th diff. cat. — 510 m, 5th diff. cat. — 400 m, 6th diff. cat./technical — 50 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 19; ice — 5;

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
2. Peak Shait (4916), via North-Eastern wall (Mogilevtsev's route)
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route characteristic: combined
5. Elevation gain: 1100 m; Route length: 1400 m Section lengths:
   • 5 – 251 m
   • 6 – 65 m

Ascent Record

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Area: Pamiro-Alay, Alaysky Ridge 3. Peak, its height — Shait 4916 m. Ascent route via North-East wall: (following Mogilevtsev's path), official route. 4. Expected difficulty category: 5B category difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m. Average steepness 67 degrees. Length of sections: 1 – 80 m, 3 – 250 m, 4 – 365 m, 5 – 320 m, 6 – 85 m. 6. Pitons driven:

• For belaying:
  • rock – 58
  • ice – –

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via North-Eastern wall (by Mogilevtsev's path), qualifying route
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 850 m, average steepness 67°. Length of sections:

• 1st cat. diff. — 40 m
• 3rd cat. diff. — 300 m
• 4th cat. diff. — 375 m

Traverse of the Northern and Central Towers

V. Trekhglavaya with ascent along the NE ridge of the Northern Tower via route 2B category of difficulty

1. Geographical information

The V. Trekhglavaya massif is located in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, in a long lateral spur that serves as a watershed between the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching latitudinally for hundreds of km. The highest point is 3266 m above sea level, located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym river. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to climbers. The gorges are deep, covered with impenetrable taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1880 m, on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The V. Trekhglavaya massif consists of three towers - South, Central, and North. The highest is the Central Tower, with a height of 2511 m above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. From the resort to the Base camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers - 4 hours walk (uphill to the gorge).

2. Route description

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Alai Range, Ulitor gorge
3. Peak — Bezymyanaya (4482 m), Central counterfort of the North-West wall, combined
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference from the bergschrund — 790 m, average steepness — 60°, route length — 950 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 410 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock cams ice screws | 43 | 20 | 8 | | :-: | :-: | :-: |

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alai, Kollektor Range 3. Peak — Georgievskaya (provisional name), height 4500 m, North Ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B 5. Route description — combined, height difference 500 m: section of 5th category difficulty — 40 m, average steepness — 45° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 0 ice — 15, bolt — 0, placement elements — 7 7. Number of walking hours: approach from DSE "Dugoba" to the route — 8 hours, route completed in 7 walking hours, descent from the summit via Chuteva - Pigou pass and return to DSE "Dugoba" — 8 hours 8. There were no overnight stays on the route.

Report

ON TRAVERSE P. "N" — P. Bykovsky with ascent via the eastern wall of the eastern ridge of P. "N", 4B cat. diff. (approximately). First ascent. 2nd: Bogomolov S. G., August 15, 1978 Krul V. N. ~650 m, ascent 50°, III–440, IV–80, V–40. asc. cr., 6.5 hours. July 1978

Map of the ascent area

Appendix No.2

Route Description

Climbing Mt. Begich (4473 m) via the Eastern Ridge, category 2B difficulty (tentative). From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow:

• Up the Kок-Су valley along a dirt road to the bridge
• Then across the bridge and along a trail on the right (orographically) bank of the Kок-Су river to the first left tributary
• Up the tributary, staying on its right side
• Then along a grassy ridge to the wall of the eastern ridge of the peak From the base camp — 3–4 hours. Further, 40 meters up the inner corner of the wall, then 40 meters up and to the right onto the eastern ridge. Protection is via pitons. After crossing the ridge, the movement continues along a wide snow depression to a narrow snow couloir and then an ascent to the pre-summit shoulder of the eastern ridge.

ASCENT PASS

1. Class: rock
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge
3. Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South face
4. Difficulty category: 5B (2nd)
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 1020 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 910 m
   • average steepness: 65°
6. Pitons used: